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LONDON PUBS In a pub in London a pair of men in scruffy work clothes sit at a small round table drinking pints of beer beneath a giant flatscreen TV blaring sports reports. The bartender climbs up onto a chair to post a notice in the window: “Drinks £2 from 6am-6pm.” At the bar, a middle-aged man in a gray suit knocks back white wine at a steady rate. It’s half past seven in the morning. The pub is called The Hope and I’m here with Bobo, the photographer, because we’ve heard it serves a great breakfast that’s popular with workers from nearby Smithfield meat market. We’d hoped The Hope would be a classic Victorian pub packed with jovial cockneys enjoying a hot meal at the end of a long night spent carrying pig carcasses on their shoulders. In fact, The Hope is hopeless and lifeless. We’d leave only we’re too hungry, and so we order the Full English: a breafast of bacon, sausages, baked beans, fried eggs and toast. Expectations are low. Looking around the room it’s a sorry sight, decorated with a faded photo of Frank Sinatra and a framed newspaper clipping of Bob Hope’s top 100 one-liners. But then breakfast arrives – and it’s warm and tasty and comes with more hot buttered toast than we can manage. We wolf it down. At the bar the man in the light gray Breakfast delivery: It won’t win prizes for presentation but The Hope’s Full English was tasty We’d hoped The Hope would be a classic Victorian pub suit checks his watch, polishes off the last of his wine, and heads to the office. THE GREAT BRITISH PUB, an institution that can trace its origins back to places that provided sustenance to Romans when they were busy building roads across ancient Briton, is said to be in decline. This might seem hard to believe if you are in London on a Friday night. In Mayfair, for instance, the Coach and Horses (established 1744) is packed with young men in pinstripe suits with Prince Harry grins, while up the street at The Punch Bowl (established 1750, now owned by Guy Ritchie, Madonna’s ex) well-fed financial managers in tuxedos spill out onto the sidewalk. And yet, according to reports in The Daily Telegraph, a dozen pubs are closing each week. The British Beer & Pub Association (BBPA) says about 8,000 pubs have closed over the past eight years. “Pubs remain the hub of social life in our villages, towns and cities, but we all have more leisure options than we have had in the past,” says Neil Williams of the BBPA. “Our homes are becoming entertainment zones, with state-of-theart TV and music systems, and people travel to other countries more. We are also drinking more at home. But nothing can replace the pub at the 52 DECEMBER 2012/JANUARY 2013 SCANORAMA
Abandon Hope: The atmosphere is cold but at least the toast is warm SCANORAMA DECEMBER 2012/JANUARY 2013 53 XXXXXX �
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