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Blackfriars Bridge Stout by London’s<br />

Toboggan Brewing is slightly sweet with<br />

the expected roasted barley aroma with<br />

chocolate and coffee background notes.<br />

Toboggan is also known for a similar brew<br />

with an added infusion of Madagascar<br />

vanilla beans.<br />

bourbon-aged imperial stout to enjoy over<br />

the holidays, or at least that’s where I lean,”<br />

said Dave Reed, co-owner of Forked River<br />

Brewing, the oldest operating craft brewer<br />

in London. “Lately there have been some<br />

cool, fun flavoured stouts too. It’s such a<br />

great platform, roasty, chocolaty, velvety,<br />

creamy vanilla flavours to have fun with.<br />

As for themes for the season, I<br />

think the best way to describe it is that<br />

decadence is the theme,” Reed added.<br />

Flavoured stouts that are fun for<br />

Christmas and throughout winter are<br />

a Forked River forte. These include<br />

Upper Thames Brewing’s Dark Side Chocolate<br />

Stout is thick and malty and derives its rich dark<br />

chocolate flavour from being aged on roasted<br />

Ivory Coast cacao nibs sourced from their<br />

Woodstock neighbour Habitual Chocolate .<br />

Chocolate Raspberry, a sweet stout that<br />

mimics the flavours of a Viva Puff cookie<br />

with sweet raspberry and chocolate.<br />

“It’s a great way to make connections<br />

with beers and flavours you may not<br />

immediately associate with beer, like a<br />

Viva Puff, Terry’s Chocolate Orange, or<br />

an After Eight, and those are flavours<br />

we have been playing around with lately<br />

in a sweet stout format,” Reed said. “We<br />

had done the Chocolate Orange in the<br />

past, so this time around it’s time for the<br />

Raspberry to take the stage.”<br />

Christmas beer and winter warmer<br />

releases start in November. Brewers<br />

across the region have worked with<br />

other flavours in seasons past, including<br />

gingerbread, butter tart, black forest<br />

cake and smoky wood. Hoppy bitterness<br />

disappears in favour of malt-forward ales<br />

that can get a sweet boost from brewers<br />

with the addition of honey, molasses or<br />

brown sugar.<br />

A defunct brewery in Kingston found a<br />

winner with Tannebomb Imperial Wit,<br />

with spruce for bitterness and cranberries<br />

for sweetness in a wheat beer base.<br />

Perhaps a true seasonal classic, and<br />

one that’s easily prepared at home, is<br />

wassail beer. The tastier cousin of cider,<br />

it’s made with brown ale such as the nutty<br />

Anderson Craft Ales Brown, red wine,<br />

cider, spices and apple slices served warm.<br />

There are various and varied recipes.<br />

Wassail is an old English word for<br />

“be well” and that’s what one of the<br />

area’s popular tiny breweries, Caps<br />

Off Brewing, wishes for its patrons<br />

anticipating the return of Wassail Ale.<br />

Last year, Caps Off brewed its own take<br />

on wassail, with a brown ale infused with<br />

mulling spices — imagine cinnamon and<br />

nutmeg — and christened it Pass<br />

the Hat. It was an apt name as<br />

money made from its sale was<br />

given to charity. Pass the Hat<br />

might be back for 2023.<br />

Another style right for the<br />

season is cuvee, a premiumpriced,<br />

high-quality beer that’s<br />

rested in barrels, sometimes<br />

several different barrels, for<br />

intense taste.<br />

Among local brewers working<br />

with barrel ageing is Forked River,<br />

which uses bourbon and white<br />

wine barrels to produce distinctive<br />

sours.<br />

If you think unusual flavours or<br />

high-alcohol coffee-and-dark-chocolate<br />

beers won’t please dinner guests or<br />

gift recipients, there are seasonal<br />

alternatives with sampler gift packs<br />

featuring multiple styles and, often, a<br />

merchandise bonus.<br />

For example, Railway City Brewing<br />

has a pack featuring its much-loved Black<br />

Coal Stout, as it returns for winter along<br />

with the straightforward Crew Premium<br />

Lager, the East Coast IPA Juice Caboose,<br />

and Elgin’s Finest Wee Heavy, a Scottish<br />

ale ideal for cold weather. A stylish Railway<br />

City toque is included.<br />

At yuletide, there’s room for lowalcohol<br />

or no-alcohol brews. Beers such<br />

as Lunchbox Lagered Ale by Harmon’s<br />

Craft Brewing, the brewed-in-London<br />

Triple Bogey Brewing’s Non-Alcoholic<br />

Lager and Bellwoods Brewery’s Non-<br />

Alcoholic Jelly King Dry Hopped<br />

Sour are among the popular choices for<br />

those who don’t want any buzz. The best<br />

selection is available through Designated<br />

Drinks (designateddrinks.ca) in London<br />

while select brands are at many grocery<br />

stores, including those that don’t sell<br />

“real” beer.<br />

Light or no-alcohol<br />

beers are a good<br />

option to start off<br />

a three-beer dinner<br />

party. Starting with<br />

a crisp four per cent<br />

alcohol beer with<br />

subtle fruitiness,<br />

such as Smooth<br />

Sailing Light<br />

Lager from Cowbell<br />

Brewing of Blyth, is<br />

a good choice. Follow<br />

this with an amber,<br />

such as Rusty Sled<br />

from Toboggan<br />

Brewing or Local<br />

117 from London Brewing. These taste<br />

wonderful when paired with a traditional<br />

turkey dinner. A rich dessert is best<br />

matched with a stout, such as the seasonal<br />

Crappy Tire Stout from Rusty Wrench<br />

Brewing of Strathroy, or Dark Side<br />

Chocolate Stout from Upper Thames<br />

Brewing in Woodstock.<br />

High-alcohol imperial stouts are best<br />

in a snifter glass, warmed by your hand<br />

or, in a pinch, a red wine glass. For light<br />

beers and ambers, a pint glass works well<br />

but looks a little too everyday for special<br />

occasions. A stemmed lager glass adds a<br />

touch of class.<br />

What’s on your Christmas beer menu?<br />

A light lager, an amber and a strong stout<br />

are excellent starting points. A Scotch ale<br />

— aka “a wee heavy” — a barrel-aged sour<br />

and a festive cranberry-infused beer round<br />

out the list for a selection that will leave<br />

guests impressed.<br />

GEORGE MACKE is a Southwestern Ontario<br />

explorer with a taste for local craft beer.<br />

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 November/December LIFESTYLE FEATURING 2023 EATDRINK LifestyLe 53

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