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FEBRUARY 2024

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CHALDEAN KITCHEN<br />

Lord Elia in her kitchen<br />

with ingredients to<br />

bake a cake.<br />

Growing Up in Baghdad<br />

Lord Elia was born and raised in Baghdad.<br />

She lived in the Iraqi capital until<br />

1996 when she immigrated to America<br />

with her family at the age of 16.<br />

Lord grew up in a traditional home,<br />

where her mother, Bernadette, kept the<br />

home and her father, Ameer, earned a<br />

living. Lord has many fond memories of<br />

her mother’s excellent cooking. “Mom<br />

could make any dish you can imagine,”<br />

she said proudly. However, Lord also<br />

recalls that, “Mother was a perfectionist<br />

and had one rule: My brother and I<br />

were to stay out of the kitchen while<br />

she cooked. As a result, she cooked and<br />

prepared all the meals by herself.” The<br />

kitchen was Bernadette’s domain.<br />

While Bernadette kept busy preparing<br />

traditional dishes, desserts,<br />

yogurt and cheeses for her family,<br />

she tasked her children with just one<br />

responsibility: School work. Lord<br />

recalls her mother asking that she<br />

and her brother, Bashar, do well in<br />

school and use their time for studying,<br />

so they can earn top grades.<br />

Because Bernadette did not involve<br />

her children in the cooking process,<br />

Lord never had the opportunity to work<br />

side by side with her mother in the<br />

kitchen or to cook together. This was<br />

the norm for Lord during her formative<br />

years and she did not object to the rules<br />

set forth by her mother. Instead, Lord<br />

focused on her schoolwork and is now<br />

a pharmacist, married with two children,<br />

with a home of her own to keep.<br />

Iraqi Traditional Wedding Cake<br />

A recipe for romance, just in time for Valentine’s Day<br />

BY Z.Z. DAWOD<br />

If you have ever attended a wedding<br />

in Baghdad, chances are you were<br />

served a particular cake which has<br />

been popular at Chaldean weddings<br />

since at least the 1950s. If you’re old<br />

enough to remember those days, you<br />

may even recall Baghdad Tower Bakery<br />

(<br />

), a specialty<br />

shop that became well-known for<br />

making this cake.<br />

These days, alcohol is included in<br />

many recipes — both with main dishes<br />

and desserts — but this was not the<br />

case back then: This cake recipe was<br />

considered “fancy” by many because<br />

it contained liquor. Adding red wine,<br />

brandy or whiskey to a cake recipe was<br />

reserved only for the most special of occasions.<br />

With its rich taste and dense<br />

texture, it’s possible that this cake became<br />

a popular choice because dinner<br />

was generally not a part of wedding<br />

celebrations in those times.<br />

For couples who lived in a big city<br />

such as Baghdad, this would have been<br />

the cake of choice for a major event.<br />

This may partially have been the case<br />

thanks to the availability of modern ovens<br />

in densely populated areas. Village<br />

life was different: Most homes in places<br />

like Alqosh or Dohuk, were equipped<br />

with a tanoor, the traditional clay oven<br />

used for baking cookies and breads.<br />

Hana and Sulaiman Yaqo at their<br />

wedding in 1978. Every layer of the<br />

wedding cake was real.<br />

This “wedding cake” recipe is<br />

unique because raisins and walnuts<br />

are marinated in alcohol prior to baking.<br />

This is done a day or two before<br />

any baking takes place and it is the liquor-infused<br />

raisins and walnuts that<br />

give this cake its unique flavor.<br />

The recipe presented here is a<br />

“family-friendly” version developed<br />

by Lord Elia, a West Bloomfieldbased<br />

entrepreneur and Instagram<br />

personality. The liquor is substituted<br />

with date syrup and orange juice, a<br />

variation on the original recipe. If you<br />

PHOTO COURTESY HANA YAQO<br />

are planning an adult-only event, feel<br />

free to add your choice of liquor for<br />

an even more intense aroma. On the<br />

day I visited Lord’s home kitchen, she<br />

prepared the alcohol-free version and<br />

it was absolutely divine.<br />

PHOTOS BY ALEX LUMELSKY<br />

Necessity Breeds Entrepreneurship<br />

While Lord worked long 14-hour shifts<br />

as a pharmacist, her mother continued<br />

to command the kitchen, assisting<br />

with meal preparation for her<br />

daughter’s family. As the years passed<br />

by, Bernadette became a critical part<br />

of the family, preparing a wide range<br />

of traditional dishes, just as she had<br />

done in previous decades.<br />

When Bernadette passed away unexpectedly,<br />

she left a great void and<br />

Lord’s father, Ameer, stepped in help<br />

out as much as he could. However,<br />

it was clear that, if Lord wanted her<br />

children to gr0w up eating traditional<br />

Chaldean cuisine as she did, she<br />

would need to learn how to prepare<br />

these dishes herself.<br />

That’s when Lord remembered<br />

that her mother, ever the perfectionist,<br />

kept meticulously organized notes for<br />

an array of recipes all those years ago.<br />

Browsing through her mother’s collection,<br />

Lord found a gold mine of sources<br />

to start from, including a nice collection<br />

of special recipes that were given to her<br />

mom by friends and family members.<br />

As Lord fine-tuned her new craft,<br />

she turned to Instagram to share what<br />

she made and to connect with other<br />

like-minded people also learning to<br />

prepare traditional Chaldean meals.<br />

This turned out to be a brilliant move<br />

as she began to receive feedback on her<br />

questions, lots of good ideas, and inspiration<br />

to get creative with her baking<br />

and decorating efforts.<br />

As Lord’s Instagram channel grew<br />

in popularity, people began to ask<br />

for recipes, instructions and advice.<br />

Eventually, the many requests sparked<br />

an idea to start a business, preparing<br />

premium sweets for special occasions.<br />

A Date with Destiny<br />

Determined to put her modern twist<br />

on a dessert with deep traditional ties,<br />

20 CHALDEAN NEWS <strong>FEBRUARY</strong> <strong>2024</strong>

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