Contributor, The Textile Industry and the Environment, UNEP

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SUMMARY
he textile industry is a significant contributor to many national economies, encompassing both
smafl and large-scale operations worldwide. Textile manufacturers use raw materials such
as colton, wool, and synthetics to produce a diverse range ofproducts for consumers at home and
abroad. Nevertheless most operations are highly standardized, and the environmental options for
manufacturers can be conveniently studied from the point of view of a jew common processes.
The impacts on the environment of this industry have been recognized for some time, both in termS
oj the discharge ofpollutants and of the consumption of water and energy. '
Poflutants arise from the dirt and grease that is removed from raw natural fibres, as welt as from
process chemicals and dyestuffs that are lost during operations. The extensive use o/synthetic chemicals
in particular can lead to serious environmental and occupational impacts ifproper precautions
are not taken. Air poltution can arise from .dyeing and finishing agents, and in the form of oil mists
from machinery. Land pollution may occur froni the unconlrolted dumping of chemical residues
and treatment plant sludges. Direct contact during handling of chemicals may give rise to occupational
illnesses.
The discharge ofpollutants and wastes also represents an economic cost to the company. Inefficient
processes lead to loss ofexpensive chemicals, wastage oj water and energy, and give rise to undesireable
quality variations and off-specification products. Opportunities may be missedfor recovery of
valuable by-products from washing and cleansing operations, or recovery ofsize. Finally, the cost
of wastewater treatment itselfdepends directfy on the quantity of waste produced - less waste meanS
smaller treatment plants and lower operating expenses.
These impacts can be addressed in number of ways, depending on the local situation. The application
of Cleaner Production concepts to textile processing brings an overall view of the operation,
and considers not only improved process equipment, but also alternative chemicals, and improved
operating procedures.
For older plants there are usually many possibilitiesfor immediate optimization ofoperations through
more effective housekeeping, keeping plant in good working order, improved methods ofhandling,
and minor process changes to reduce losses. The use ofenergy, waste and emissions audits can pinpoint
the areas that particularly need attention. Audit procedures have become standard practice
in many companies. UNEP and UNIDO have published guidance documents on how to perform
such audits.
The possibility of replacing older plant by more efficient new equipment should also be thoroughly
investigated, as often there are economic benefits to such an upgrading, and the investments have
often very short payhacks. Where new plant is installed this should be assessed from the oulset on
environmental as well as technical criteria.
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