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Contributor, The Textile Industry and the Environment, UNEP

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• 3.1 SOURCES OF IMPACT<br />

I<br />

3<br />

ENVIRONMENTAL<br />

IMPACT<br />

OF<br />

THE<br />

TEXTILE<br />

INDUSTRY<br />

n typical textile operations both chemical <strong>and</strong> mechanical treatments are used on <strong>the</strong> raw materials<br />

to produce a finished product. Unwanted by-products arise from many points in this cycle,<br />

<strong>the</strong> majority of which are discarded.<br />

Unwanted raw material components, such as grease <strong>and</strong> dirt, can constitute a major part of <strong>the</strong> raw<br />

pollution load arising from many textile operations. Waste chemicals, from <strong>the</strong> process or washed<br />

from finished textiles, constitute a second source of potential pollutants. Due to <strong>the</strong> range of chemicals<br />

used, <strong>the</strong> composition of <strong>the</strong> effluent stream may also vary considerably.<br />

Chemical companies market a huge range of products such as dye formulations <strong>and</strong> colorants to <strong>the</strong><br />

textile industry, many under trade names ra<strong>the</strong>r than by chemical composition. Table I shows an<br />

inventory of <strong>the</strong> 30 base chemicals <strong>and</strong> a wide variety of auxiliary chemicals used in a Ghanaian textile<br />

mill. Many of <strong>the</strong>se are listed only under <strong>the</strong>ir trade name, making <strong>the</strong> full identification of <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

associated environmental <strong>and</strong> health risks more difficult. Many chemicals used may be dangerous<br />

to h<strong>and</strong>le unless proper safety precautions are used. Some present a fire (lsk if incorrectly stored<br />

<strong>and</strong> h<strong>and</strong>led. O<strong>the</strong>rs, including a range of caustic or oxidising chemicals, can be ei<strong>the</strong>r corrosive<br />

or acutely toxic. Some solvents <strong>and</strong> colorants present a chronic health risk jf prolonged exposure<br />

takes place.<br />

Many dyes <strong>and</strong> colorants are difficult to treat but <strong>the</strong>ir high visibility in waste discharges means <strong>the</strong>se<br />

materials attract particular attention. Occupatlonal safety <strong>and</strong> exposure during h<strong>and</strong>ling is however<br />

an equally important issue which needs to be managed just as closely as impacts on <strong>the</strong> external<br />

environment. To provide users with more precise guidance, <strong>the</strong> Ecological <strong>and</strong> Toxicological Association<br />

of Dyes <strong>and</strong> Organic Pigments Manufacturers (ETAD) has prepared guidance documents<br />

covering safe h<strong>and</strong>Jing as wclJ as environmental issues such as risk assessment. Relevant references are<br />

33

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