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26<br />

Newsletter<br />

Joint <strong>PFI</strong> and LGR Research Project<br />

Results for Different Leathers<br />

Fatting and Amount of Chrome Tanning<br />

Agent Used<br />

The choice of fatting agent was crucial for chromium(VI)<br />

formation during leather production. In contrast, the<br />

animal hide constituents present in leather have no<br />

influence on the chromium(VI) values. Use of greater<br />

quantities of chrome tanning agent led to high contents<br />

of total chromium and soluble total chromium in<br />

leather. The amount of soluble total chromium could<br />

be reduced by fixation of the leather with dicarboxylic<br />

acids. No correlation could be seen between high total<br />

chromium contents or high soluble total chromium<br />

contents and the chromium(VI) content of the leathers.<br />

Ageing and UV Irradiation<br />

A considerable influence on chromium(VI) formation<br />

in leathers could be ascribed to ageing and UV irradiation.<br />

This is also apparent from studies on the different<br />

layers of leather. To this end, the leathers were split<br />

into four layers. The chromium(VI) contents proved to<br />

be higher in the outer layers directly exposed to the<br />

environment than in the inner layers.<br />

CHEMISTRY<br />

How is Chromium(VI) Formed<br />

in Leather and Leather Goods?<br />

Adhesives and Heat<br />

Furthermore, the effect of three different adhesives<br />

on chromium(VI) formation was also examined. Thus<br />

the leathers were treated with a natural latex adhesive,<br />

a synthetic latex adhesive, and a PU dispersion<br />

adhesive. The leathers were additionally subjected to<br />

heating to simulate the footwear production process.<br />

Application of adhesive led to significantly higher<br />

chromium(VI) contents in some of the tested lining<br />

leathers, whereas upper leathers showed hardly any<br />

increase in chromium(VI) levels. Adhesive treatment<br />

and heat tended to slightly reduce the chromium(VI)<br />

levels in leathers with a high initial chromium(VI) concentration.<br />

A slight increase in chromium(VI) levels<br />

was noted in the case of low initial chromium(VI) contents.<br />

Reducing Agents<br />

In addition, the effect of reducing agents on the<br />

chromium(VI) contents of leathers was also investigated,<br />

both in a vat process and after spray application.<br />

On the one hand, reducing agents prevent the formation<br />

of chromium(VI); on the other, they lower the<br />

concentration of existing chromium(VI). Use of reducing<br />

agents consistently leads to lower chromium(VI)<br />

contents of leathers. The reducing action also withstood<br />

treatment with heat and adhesives.<br />

Leather lining<br />

attached to shoe upper

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