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MEASURING HERITAGE CONSERVATION PERFORMANCE<br />

6th International Seminar on Urban Conservation<br />

the dark. There is nearly no street public equipment<br />

like benches etc., only a monument commemorating<br />

the city’s foundation. Nevertheless, along the<br />

Rua Sagrado Coração de Jesus is a longer balustrade<br />

that is the haunt of the people in front of the prefeitura,<br />

called murinho (‘little wall’).<br />

Figure 3. Feiralivre, the historic pavement and the Mercado<br />

building.<br />

The commercial town centre is a pedestrian area<br />

(the former Rua Direita do Comércio) directly leading<br />

to the market square (now called Rua Getúlio<br />

Vargas) and contains two small supermarkets, some<br />

bars, a bank and several shops. Along both sides of<br />

the square are found some simple bars and shops,<br />

all the local hardware stores, and also some waste<br />

houses or ruins (some of them currently undergoing<br />

a kind of ‘reconstruction’). At the east end the main<br />

bus station (rodoviária) was built. Sometimes the<br />

neighbourhood opposite Trapiche gives shelter to<br />

some tables with handicrafts. Besides the prefeitura,<br />

the most important building is the listed covered<br />

mercado, to be opened at three sides to the market by<br />

many wooden doors (see Figure 3). In the western<br />

Trapiche buildings leading to the university the main<br />

entrance is just outside the market zone, not affecting<br />

the popular event. Their many doors are shut<br />

everyday, which gives the recently restored buildings<br />

a strangely ambivalent character. The mercado<br />

is also closed during the week but every door opens<br />

widely on market-days.<br />

2. Attainability<br />

The realm of the feira livre has many different<br />

accesses (see Figure 1). The possible former direct<br />

route from the countryside now connects only some<br />

areas of simple detached houses with the centre,<br />

leading across the river over a small road bridge. Its<br />

former direct (visual) importance was probably lost<br />

because of the construction of the other bridges the<br />

mercado building cuts off in the 19 th century. Today<br />

there are two different main access points at the eastern<br />

and western end of the market square, by which<br />

the people of some suburbs of Laranjeiras and its<br />

surrounding villages reach the market. In <strong>part</strong>icular,<br />

on Saturdays public buses are organized that<br />

wait there for the tour back to the villages, guarding<br />

in the meantime the many bags and plastic sacks<br />

of purchases and foodstuffs. The southern access is<br />

divided among some streets and lanes. Motorized<br />

visitors drive mostly into the Rua Sagrado Coração<br />

de Jesus. Other consumers who walk to the market<br />

mainly use the central pedestrian street, ‘Rua Direita’<br />

as it is still called by the people. A very special<br />

inland manner of coming to the market is by mototaxi,<br />

or motorcycle. At every access where motorized<br />

traffic reaches directly the market, motorcyclists<br />

park their vehicles until someone wants to be transported<br />

homeward. Another more traditional way of<br />

visiting the market is by horse, generally pulling a<br />

little wooden cart. Some people still do this and let<br />

their horses wait at two common places. We exemplify<br />

the variety and details of going to the market<br />

in order to expose the various underlying ‘scripts’<br />

emerging into a functional substructure behind the<br />

‘picturesque image of a Brazilian market’, exploring<br />

a complex socio-spatial entity.<br />

The way back home might be the same but is visibly<br />

different because of the many sacks and bags<br />

that must be transported. The professional mototaxista<br />

offers his backseat to the customer and all<br />

purchases are mounted between him and the transported<br />

person. People sit waiting on the sidewalks,<br />

while someone is searching around for a last article,<br />

surrounded by a pack of bags until the taxi or one’s<br />

car is loaded with all goods. Many of the pedestrians<br />

rent a carregador, who wait at common places for<br />

a job. If hired, these young boys follow the customer<br />

on the market through the swarm of people and collect<br />

every bag, melon, vegetable and other purchase<br />

in their metal wheelbarrow (carreta). In the end the<br />

consumer is joined by the boy on the way home,<br />

sometimes pushing a heavy load.<br />

Brendle, K. H. 2012. ¿Conservar uma feira livre? Or, preserving dynamic, complex heritage by accenting societal character and sociospatial<br />

conceptualization. In Zancheti, S. M. & K. Similä, eds. Measuring heritage conservation performance, pp. 42-52. Rome, ICCROM.<br />

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