Eatdrink #44 November/December 2013

20 www.eatdrink.ca
restaurants
Some Like it Hot …
The Raja Fine Indian Cuisine, in London
№ 44 | November/December 2013
By SUE SUtherLAND WOOD
The bond between
British and
Indian food is
complex and
well documented (soccer
fans may recall that whilst
playing for Manchester
United, David Beckham
would celebrate a victory
with a post-game curry
at his local ‘Indian’) but
even so, the relationship
has evolved greatly
and continues to do so.
Historically, the Brits have
been fond of putting their
own (often unfortunate)
spin on India’s regional
dishes and creating new
“mainstream” dishes such as curry and chips
or Chicken Tikka Masala spread thickly in a
sandwich. There’s even a strange tendency to
draw other cultures into the mix which is how it
somehow becomes acceptable to find (Russian)
Chicken Kiev in the UK freezer section —
but with a creamy curry filling! Even curry
powder itself, with its distinctively pungent
taste, is another entirely British invention
never actually used in any authentic Indian
cooking. So if you don’t like curry powder,
don’t assume that you won’t care for Indian
food — because almost certainly, there will
be no ‘curry powder’ involved. Nowadays true
Indian cuisine in all its myriad forms is being
recognized and lauded for its diversity and also
for an increasing ability to shine all on its own.
The Raja, located on Clarence Street here
in London (and an older sister establishment
on George Street in Stratford) will appeal to
customers who are seeking an upmarket Indian
cuisine experience or indeed, a superior meal.
Restaurateur Zahirul Chowdhury breaks
down the success formula for Raja into three
basic points: “excellent food, service and
A richly varied menu is offered, including extensive
options for vegetarians. Chef Nurul Islam, who
brings over 35 years of experience in Indian cuisine,
ensures The Raja’s food matches the restaurant’s
high level of service and atmosphere.