Eatdrink #44 November/December 2013

40 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 44 | November/December 2013
Great Bread: Soho’s Alternative Ethical Bakery and Organic Café
Peter Cuddy is a maverick, innovator and
passionate entrepreneur with deepseated
ethical convictions. Cuddy has
built the reputation of Organic Works
Bakery on integrity in several areas relating to
ecology and health. Whether engaging customers
in conversation in the Organic Bread Works
café, doing demos at trade shows as a
means of promoting his brand, undertaking
the leg work required for having the
bakery certified organic and
allergen-free, or learning from
his team of bakers on Saturday
mornings, Cuddy remains
tion’s Gluten-Free Program (GFCP) to verify that
the bakery meets all requirements allowing it to
use the GFCP mark on product packaging and in
marketing and advertising materials.
“The bakery started out with very basic breads
and five years ago converted to exclusively
gluten-free products,” says Cuddy. ‘‘A large
part of what we have done right is that
we have designed a product that has all
the needs and requirements of allergenfree
status that tastes good.”
Clients who want organic,
lactose-free, gluten-free,
vegan, vegetarian and allergen-free
products are often more knowledgeable
and demanding than their mainstream
bakery purchasing counterparts. They generally
also want stringent reassurances about
the origins of the ingredients and the products
employed in the bakery. Peter is on hand
to talk to his customers to educate, to assuage
Owner Peter Cuddy (above) ensures every aspect of his
business is “compliant with every possible standard”
while producing delicious and wholesome products.
Executive Chef Kat Charlebois (right) runs the popular
organic café and retail operation.
Organic Works Photograph by Steve Grimes
focused on the business at hand. He strives to
“keep Organic Works compliant with every possible
standard,” which is both time-consuming
and expensive, but ultimately gratifying.
Baking was never Cuddy’s vocation and he
still does not self-identify as a baker despite his
vast knowledge on the subject and his hands-on
approach to the business. He leaves the baking
operations up to head baker Lori Juric, who leads a
team of four full-time commercial bakers and two
retail bakers. Juric was trained by master baker/
pâtissier Roland Hofner, of the Tourism and Hospitality
program at Fanshawe College. Cuddy is quick
to point out Hofner’s success as an educator and
says, “I would gladly hire any graduate of Hofner’s
baking program.” The busy organic café and retail
operation is headed up by Chef Kat Charlebois.
One of the most time consuming and challenging
aspects of the business is the necessity
to deal with the volume of paperwork required
for allergen-free certification. The bakery has
organic certification from Pro-Cert Canada Inc.,
which is the overseer group accredited by Canadian
Food Inspection. The bakery has recently
been audited by the Canadian Celiac Associa­
their concerns, and to talk about how the ingredients
are sourced and how the products are made.
“Customers want to see ‘a clean ingredient
deck,’ meaning keeping ingredients to as bare a
minimum as possible.” Organic Bread Works is
a nut-free facility and does not retail any wheat
products.
Gluten-free products have become increasingly
popular because more people are learning
that celiac disease can be managed effectively if
wheat products are eliminated from their diet.
Wheat-free or gluten-free are not just for those
with a wheat or gluten intolerance. They are also
delicious alternatives catering to a demand for
more global, authentically produced artisanal
varieties of bread.
The building was originally purchased as a
new location for Gielen Design but those plans
changed. Cuddy’s wife is Kate Gielen, owner of
Gielen Design. She conceptualized the retail
area and café. The café has an earthy, natural
vibe with a touch of industrial aesthetic. A wall of
reclaimed doors separates the public area from
the main floor production facilities. The seating