Eatdrink #44 November/December 2013

58 www.eatdrink.ca
№ 44 | November/December 2013
cookbooks
The Flavour Principle
By Lucy Waverman and Beppi Crosariol
Review and Recipe Selections by Jenna GAGel
Lucy Waverman and Beppi Crosariol
have long been columnists for the
Globe and Mail, writing about food,
and wine and spirits, respectively.
Now they have paired their love of food and
drink into a book, The Flavour Principle, the
new standard for anyone who sumptuously
enjoys flavour.
“Every great dish has a centre of gravity,
and overarching flavour or essence that pulls
together other ingredients into a compelling
whole,” say the authors, explaining the
inspiration for their new book.
The Flavour Principle contains over
30 eclectic menus, organized around 11
different core flavours, such as earthy, spicy
and umami (one of the five basic tastes,
savoury but activating distinctly different
receptors on the tongue, as defined by
Japanese chemistry professor Kikunae Ikeda
— who, not coincidentally, patented the
manufacture of monosodium glutamate).
Well beyond wine, Crosariol gives us advice
on how to stock his version of a bare-bones
bar. Waverman weighs in with the basic
ingredients of a global pantry. Between the
two are the makings of a flavour extravaganza.
Wake up your taste buds with an old
Venetian favourite (but a new and trendy
cocktail in Canadian circles), Aperol Spritz.
We are warned not to deviate from the brand
name liquor. “Substitute an imposter and
the deceit stands out faster
than a Prada logo spelled
with two d’s. It’s in the
colour. Nothing delivers
the electric-orange dazzle
of Aperol, except maybe
for orange Kool-Aid.” Their
notes preceding the recipes
are a pleasure to read,
conversational and full of
humour.
Tired of turkey but
don’t want to break too far
from tradition? From the
Mediterranean comes
the inspiration for
Caramel-Pecan-
Dusted Sea Bass with
Cranberry Wine
Sauce. “The nutty
coating has a sweet-hot taste that,
when contrasted with the soft flesh of the
fish, gives an unbeatable flavour and texture
profile.” Crosariol recommends taking a cue
from the red wine sauce and serving a pinot
noir. “The ideal red for fish, medium-bodied
pinot keeps things light while delivering
berry-like fruitiness to complement the smoky
paprika in Lucy’s sea bass.”
Brussels sprouts are experiencing a
trendy revival, and Waverman’s Shallot
and Brussels Sprout Compote will have
even fussy eaters coming back for seconds,
especially when paired with Crosariol’s
suggested nutty white Burgundy.
Throughout the pages, the authors take
us on a global gastronomic journey, photojournaled
by Ryan Szulc, a Toronto-based
food photographer who has worked for
such major publications as Chatelaine and
Maclean’s and won numerous awards.
This is one of the best cookbooks Canada
has to offer and an excellent gift for any
home cook. The recipes and beverages are
completely professional, while the tone is as
welcome as an old friend. “We’re honoured to
be partners in your kitchen.
We’re just sorry we can’t
be there to help with the
dishes.”
This holiday season
tour the world via your
taste buds with Waverman
and Crosariol’s culinary
passport to flavour.
JenniFER GAGEL is a freelance
writer and can be reached at jennagagel@
gmail.com.