Eatdrink #44 November/December 2013

№ 44 | November/December 2013
passion for the culinary arts began while
working at a series of French restaurants in
Toronto that were bastions of haute cuisine.
The way I saw it, French seemed to be the only
serious way to dine. Initially, I was an ardent
student of regional French cuisine but after
trips to Italy, I had to acknowledge that I was
more inspired by regional Italian cooking
and eventually I moved beyond France as my
primary focus of interest.
As far as I can remember, travels in Europe
and my introduction to food writers MFK
Fisher and Elizabeth David were how my passion
for food writing was incubated. In any
case, it was Italy where I first encountered giant
turtles fated for soup pots, wild game, a variety
of unusual feathered birds and truffle hunting
dogs. I enjoyed scouting the open-air food markets
in Pisa and Florence and the Rialto market
on Venice’s Canal Grande. The Italian market
was my nirvana, with its abundant varieties of
fresh and saltwater fish and shellfish, and the
night markets piled high with seasonal produce,
fresh fungi and local cheeses.
I was cooking at a dinner club in Chandler’s
Ford in Hampshire, England, just as mad cow
disease was evolving from a cryptic veterinary
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