Runway S/S18

YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO THE NEW SEASON 

UNWAY 

SPRING 

S U M M E R 

CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM 

2018

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574 

23 

bottles of PLI 

were used at 

the 2017 fashion 

week shows 

Number of L’Oréal 

Professionnel fashion 

week shows PLI was 

used at last year

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by 

PLI is my all-time favourite multi 

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Adam Reed, Percy & Reed 

PLI is the perfect foundation 

product to build any style. 

Its versatility allows me to 

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Stephen Low, 

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* 

Follow us backstage @lorealpro #lorealprouk 

* Pli is our number 1 product to use in our range of backstage styling products.

CONTENTS 

SPRING/SUMMER 2018 

06 

TOP FIVE MOMENTS 

What really caught our eye this season 

14 

THAT WAS THE SEASON 

The return of the Supers and a power dressing comeback 

16 

TRENDS 

Low-slung ponies, high octane gloss and laid-back locks 

22 

HOW HAIR HAPPENS 

Behind the scenes with A-list session stylists at Daks, Erdem and Topshop Unique 

34 

GET FROM HERE... TO HERE! 

We go on a session journey to the top with two salon stylists 

36 

THIS CHARMING MAN 

Why designer Harry Evans is the next big thing at London Fashion Week 

38 

POWER OF THE FLOWER 

It’s all about adornments for Guido and Dolce & Gabbana 

44 

BLANC SPACE 

Behind the scenes at the Central Saint Martins White Show 

48 

SUGAR AND SPICE 

Josh Wood fuses prettiness and teen angst at Alexander Wang 

Cover image Topshop Unique, hair by Duffy for L’Oréal Professionnel 

4 RUNWAY Spring/Summer 2018

EDITOR’S LETTER 

DEAREST RUNWAY READERS, 

It’s my first time at the helm of your biannual backstage (and FROW) bible, which 

makes me especially excited to welcome you to a new issue and an exciting new 

season. And what a season S/S18 has been! 

We’ve seen fashion history created at shows such as Versace ( flick to ‘That Was the 

Season’ on page 14 to say hello again to the band of Supers!), not to mention a whole 

legion of seminal styling and cutting-edge cuts. What else do we have in store? Well, 

there’s our much-loved regulars Top Five shows (page 6), Trends (page 16) and seeing 

the magic happen backstage in Re:Create (page 30), we’ve also caught up with our 

favourite fashion week heroes for an insight into their rarified worlds. On page 38, 

Redken global creative director Guido throws light on hair adornment, while Redken 

global color creative director, Josh Wood, talks us through that Rose Quartz colour he 

created at Alexander Wang, which had the beauty industry buzzing, on page 48. 

Of course, we love to celebrate the big guys, but we’re also committed to championing 

emerging talent, too. Case in point, our inspirational interview with hot young designer 

Harry Evans on page 36, who made his show debut under his own name at Fashion 

East, and we tracked two hairdressers on their journey from their salons to working 

Fashion Week, on page 34. Will it inspire you to make the jump? 

I hope you enjoy reading this issue as much as I’ve enjoyed working on it. Now go 

forth and create hair history! 

CASSIE STEER 

RUNWAY GUEST EDITOR 

Editor in Chief: Amanda Nottage Art: Graeme White Chief Sub Editor: Adam Wood 

Contributors: Beth Davie, Anna Samson Publisher: Catherine Handcock 

WRITE TO US AT RUNWAY, 21 THE TIMBERYARD, DRYSDALE STREET, LONDON N1 6ND 

T: 020 7324 7540 E: enquiries@alfol.co.uk 

Runway is a supplement of Creative HEAD, published twice a year by ALFOL Ltd. All rights reserved. CreativeHEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. 

All information correct at the time of going to press 

Spring/Summer 2018 RUNWAY 5

TOP FIVE 

MOMENTS 

IN HAIR & 

FASHION 

THEY’RE THE HEADLINE ACTS SO FABULOUS WE 

HAD TO GIVE THEM A BIG HIGH FIVE. HERE ARE THE 

TOP SHOWS, AS CHOSEN BY CASSIE STEER 


RUNWAY TOP FIVE 

Image courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel 

PARTY ALL THE TIME 

TOPSHOP UNIQUE 

TOPSHOP ISN’T your shy, retiring kinda of show. 

There are certain expectations. And from the 

star-studded FROW (think Olivia Palermo and 

Charli XCX) to the stellar casting on the runway 

(model du jour Adwoa Aboah opened the show 

with supers Jourdan Dunn and Hailey Baldwin 

hot on her heels), it didn’t disappoint. This season, 

the brand paid homage to the great London 

nightclubs of the ’90s, such as the legendary 

Madame JoJo’s in Soho, complete with neon signs. 

Hedonistic, upbeat and sexy, a party atmosphere 

prevailed both on and off the catwalk. Over on 

hair, super-stylist Duffy for L’Oréal Professionnel 

kept to the after-hours theme with ‘lazy, slightly 

sweaty waves’ that referenced the sexy sideswept 

styles of classic Versace campaigns, before 

blasting dry and pulling the hair across the face in 

a masculine side parting. Get the party started. 


CROWNING GLORY 

ERDEM 

IT’S THE SLOT on the LFW schedule that serious 

fashionistas pay attention to. For S/S18, the designer 

came over all royalist with an ode to the Queen – to 

be precise, a 32-year-old royal highness re-imagined 

in the style of Harlem’s Cotton Club in the ’50s. 

“I wanted to play with the idea of what would 

have happened if the Queen went to New York and 

Dorothy Dandridge had ended up in Buckingham 

Palace,” mused designer Erdem Moralioglu, having 

spent his summer at Windsor Castle working 

through the Queen’s wardrobe. The collection was 

a mix of ’50s-style opera coats, satin dresses, tweed 

trouser suits and sexy pencil skirts, all with a quirky, 

‘naughty’ twist. Offbeat was the name of the game 

backstage too, where Anthony Turner’s ‘kooky hair’, 

using L’Oréal Professionnel, was styled to look as 

though the queen had been up dancing all night. 

Fit for royalty, we say. 




Photography: James Cochrane 

POWER PACK 

VERSACE 

IT WAS THE SHOW that broke the internet this 

season, and for once that had nothing to do with 

any of the Kardashians in the house. Marking the 

20th anniversary of her brother’s tragic death, 

Donatella decided to use her S/S18 collection as 

a commemoration of “a genius… an icon… my 

brother”. The fash pack brought its A-game to 

celebrate the sassy high-waisted jeans, leggings 

and shoulder pads emblazoned with Gianni’s 

classic Versace prints. But it was the ‘Big Five’ 

that brought the show to its glittering finale with 

Carla, Claudia, Cindy, Naomi and Helena strutting 

their stuff to George Michael’s Freedom ‘90. As 

a perfect compliment to all that fabulousness, 

Guido decided to make the hair a little less inyour-face 

and settled on a shiny blow-dry with a 

hint of volume, “a modern idea of glamour”, he 

explained backstage. Sashay! Shantay! 


DESIGN FOR LIFE 

EUDON CHOI 

DUBBED ‘E1027’ after modernist architect Eileen 

Gray’s Villa E-1027 in the south of France, Choi’s 

tenth collection was a construction of clean-cut 

tailoring with a monochrome palette in keeping 

with his contemporary aesthetic. If you’re a 

fan of the pin-stripe, this was the show for you. 

From one-shoulder dresses to summery trouser 

suits, they were paraded down the runways in 

all manner of guises. Add in a dash of nautical 

collars, sunny blue tartans and a rather fabulous 

fuchsia power suit, and you have the recipe for a 

fresh, palatable take on Riviera style. ‘Soft, cool 

and modern’ was also Stephen Low’s brief for hair, 

which he interpreted as a low-key pony. Prepping 

with L’Oréal Professionnel’s Tecni.ART Pli, he 

blasted hair dry, gathering it at the occipital bone 

before dusting the ends with Tecni.ART Super 

Dust for a ‘raw’ finish. A grand design indeed. 




Photography by James Cochrane 

WE CAN BE HEROES 

PRADA 

COMIC BOOKS and fashion aren’t the most 

natural bedfellows, but when sartorial genius 

Miuccia Prada is involved you can bet the result 

will be Marvel-lous. Inspired by comic book 

heroines – “from good ones to bad ones, the 

beautiful and not-so-beautiful” – the collection 

took on a similarly eclectic feel, mixing decades 

and tribes. From ’80s-inspired, oversized blazers 

and punky T-shirts to rockabilly dresses and 

comic book printed coats and shirts, each 

look had a slightly boyish feel to it, ramping up 

Miuccia’s notion of ‘feminine strength’. Tomboys 

were also in force backstage, with Guido’s 

masculine ponytails complete with sideburns. 

“We were looking at animation, how it shows 

wispy and shorter pieces around the ear. It should 

feel boyish and the cut around the ears instantly 

gives hair a tomboy quality,” he explained. Kapow! 


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THAT WAS 

THE SEASON… 

FROM THE REVIVAL OF THE SUPERS TO BIG AND BOLD ACCESSORIES, 

CASSIE STEER SELECTS HER MOMENTS THAT MATTER FROM S/S18 

Photography by James Cochrane 

SUPER HEROES 

FINAL 

FANTASY 

THEY WERE THE models that broke the mould of previous clothes horses and 

demanded $10,000 for the privilege of getting out of bed. They also stole the show at 

Versace’s rapturous ode to designer Donatella’s late brother Gianni, showing their younger 

counterparts how it’s done. Carla, Claudia, Naomi, Cindy and Helena – we salute you. 

Versace 

Jack Irving 

A FAN OF Blue Planet II? Then settle in for 

Jack Irving’s On|Off creations, famously worn 

by Lady Gaga. It was a fantastical story of 

structures akin to sea urchins and venus 

flytraps seen through the lens of a visiting alien. 

Wallflowers need not apply… 

SWIPE BRIGHT 

Harry Evans 

THE FUTURE WAS looking bright over on make-up 

as bold pigments of every hue were smeared across 

the lids of models in all four fashion capitals (precision 

has no place in this trend – check out Luke Anthony 

Rooney at On|Off for proof, where swipes where 

anywhere but lids). When it comes to wearing colour 

this summer, the eyes have it. 

Harry Evans Luke Anthony Rooney 

M A X I M U M 

FRILLS 

OTT RUFFLES were 

firmly on the catwalk 

agenda this season, 

swamping silhouettes 

in swathes of fabulous 

fabric, just like this ruffled 

wonder at Éthologie by 

Jasper Garvida. Don’t give 

frills the cold shoulder… 

Éthologie 


Topshop Unique 

E A R 

CANDY 

LISTEN UP. Go big or go home was 

the mantra when it came to ear attire, 

proving that when making a statement 

it’s all in the detail. Our favourite? The 

OTT chandeliers at Topshop Unique, 

for shoulder-grazing attention. 

RUNWAY THAT WAS THE SEASON 

Éthologie 

Erdem 

Harry Evans 

N O 

BLURRED 

LINES 

IF YOU’RE ONE for the 

straight and narrow, check 

out the colourful stripes at 

Caplanentwisle at On|Off, 

both in long line knits, and 

on T-shirt sleeves. You’ll be 

staying on the right lines… 

Caplanentwisle 

COOL 

AND THE GANG 

TOPSHOP UNIQUE has become the show to elbow your way into – 

like a cooler, younger sister of Victoria’s Secret, it’s the girl EVERYONE 

wants to be friends with. And it showed in the staging, with acres of 

neon to help pay tribute to the legendary Madame JoJo’s of Soho. 

Can we be in your gang? 

Images courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel and Redken 

POWER 

DRESSING 

WHETHER you’re 

Team Alexis or 

Team Krystle, 

channel your inner 

Dynasty diva and 

embrace ’80s power 

threads, as seen at 

Zeynep Kartal. Just 

remember, remove 

any earrings before 

starting a fight. 

Zeynep Kartal 



Erdem 

THE TRENDS 

FROM HI-SHINE TO EQUINE, THEY’RE THE LOOKS THAT WORK 

JUST AS WELL OFF THE CATWALKS AS ON. CASSIE STEER REPORTS... 


RUNWAY TRENDS 

Eudon Choi 

P O N Y 

CLUB 

THE FIRST RULE of pony club: go low or go 

home – as anything above the occipital bone 

means instant disqualification, if the catwalks 

were anything to go by. Clean and simple was 

the order of the day at the majority of shows, 

with some individual nuances thrown in to 

lend a bit of character. At Miu Miu, Guido 

added a black elastic headband and teased the 

crown in a nod to the mod; “I’ve blown all the 

girls’ hairlines out and pulled their hair up into 

a ponytail,” he explained backstage. “It’s really a 

’90s take on the ’60s with a clean ponytail and 

a teased crown for added height.” Meanwhile, 

over at Sacai, he made a simple ‘wash and go’ 

pony; folded under itself to show off the clothes 

as well as employing a little Redken Wind 

Blown 05 to texturise and add hold. Over at 

Erdem, Anthony Turner drenched the hair in 

L’Oréal Professionnel’s Tecni.ART Full Volume 

Extra Mousse before drying and tonging into 

‘40s-style twists, while Neville’s Stephen Low for 

L’Oréal Professionnel kept things super-simple 

at Eudon Choi for his ‘effortless’ down-dos. An 

exception to the low pony rule, but fabulous 

enough to warrant a mention, was the Ariana 

Grande-inspired ponytail at Paul Costelloe by 

Toni&Guy’s Cos Sakkas, achieved with lashings 

of hairspray then dried in for a super-smooth 

finish. Tally-ho! 

Paul Costelloe 

Erdem 

Sacai 

GET THE LOOK 

EUDON CHOI S/S18 

Miu Miu 

Loewe 

Prada 

HAIR: Stephen Low from Neville 

Hair & Beauty for L’Oréal Professionnel 

THE LOOK: Soft, cool and modern 

HOW: The hair was prepped with 

Tecni.ART Pli at the roots and blasted 

dry before a small tong was used 

around the hairline to encourage 

gentle movement and texture. Hair 

was gathered into a ponytail at the 

occipital bone, leaving the elastic 

exposed for a modern nod. The roots 

and lengths of the ponytail were 

dusted with Tecni.ART Super Dust for 

a raw finish, juxtaposed with sides that 

were pulled and pinned tight. Infinium 

was misted for barely-there hold. 

Getting the balance right between 

care-free and effortless, and messy and 

no effort, is a fine line – it’s all about 

purposeful texture. 


Daks 

Jack Irving 

Malan Breton 

G L O S S 

& GO 

THE GLOSSY POSSE were out in force as 

high-octane shine took centre stage. Putting the 

sparkle emoji through its paces across all four 

fashion capitals, the look centered on perfectly 

polished cuticles that screamed ‘luxury’ with 

healthy hair as the starting point throughout. 

The secret behind shiny, happy hair? Hair care 

as the new styling tool. At both Ralph Lauren 

and Tory Burch for example, Guido prepped 

the models’ locks with Redken’s Diamond Oil 

Glow Dry Gloss Shampoo and Conditioner to 

infuse the hair with goodness, adding amla and 

coriander oils for a high-shine finish. “The hair 

this season is a super-chic blow-out,” said Guido 

at Ralph Lauren. “I’m prepping with a glossing 

shampoo and conditioner before using a boarbristled 

brush to blow the hair out to keep it 

super healthy, shiny and clean.” Meanwhile, Daks 

was delivering high-wattage wonderment thanks 

to Stephen Low for L’Oréal Professionnel. Over at 

Jack Irving’s On|Off show, The Boutique Atelier’s 

Richard Phillipart for L’Oréal Professionnel was 

lending stratospheric shine to his super-slick, 

Marcel wave up-do. Slightly more down to earth 

but equally stellar were the luxe waves at Malan 

Breton, where Toni&Guy international artistic 

director, Philip Haus, spritzed shine mist onto a 

grooming brush for extra lustre. And to ramp up 

the pass-me-my-shades mega-watt shine a notch 

further? Add a dash of L’Oréal Professionnel 

Mythic Oil Colour Glow as a finishing touch to 

any glossy ’do. 

Daks 

GET THE LOOK 

HAIZHEN WANG 

Versace 

Alexander McQueen 

Ralph Lauren 

HAIR: Jonny Engstrom from 

Guy Kremer for L’Oréal Professionnel 

THE LOOK: Romantic warriors 

HOW: Tecni.ART Pli was used to 

prep and blow-dry the hair for 

smoothness and control, working with 

a low side-parting. Hair was split into 

three sections: at the back secured in a 

tight low ponytail, with two sections at 

the front left loose. More clips were 

placed just below the eye, removed 

minutes before the show for a subtle 

indent. Tecni.ART Density Material 

was worked through the hair from 

roots to the top of the ear for a glossy, 

almost wet-look sheen while 

mid-lengths and ends were kept 

natural, achieving an effective dual 

texture. A light mist of Infinium hair 

spray was spritzed for light hold. 


RUNWAY TRENDS 

N O 

BLOW 

House of Holland 

BACKSTAGE WAS uncharacteristically 

relaxed this season. Not because the stylists 

were resting on their laurels (‘natural’ hair 

still takes a fair amount of work, don’t you 

know) but because laid-back locks were 

the order of the day. By far the most prolific 

trend on the catwalks was ‘just-woke-up-likethis’ 

texture and the pro behind the looks 

at Victoria Beckham, Alexander Wang and 

Valentino shared his secret with us. “It’s about 

emphasizing each model’s individual texture,” 

said Guido backstage at Valentino. “To do that 

I’ve applied a little of Redken’s No Blow Dry 

Cream when the hair is damp.” At Givenchy, 

Guido reached for a curling iron on some of the 

models to add additional texture. “I’ve done a 

side-part on the models and spritzed Redken 

Wax Blast 10 to add an age to it, so it looks 

more like second day, clung-together, sexy, 

bedhead hair,” he explained. ‘No-Blow’ is a look 

that provides the perfect base for any effortless 

style you choose to create, such as the romantic 

half up/half down ’do by Matthew Curtis for 

L’Oréal Professionnel at Zeynep Kartal, or the 

soft twists at Daks, which Stephen Low prepped 

using L’Oréal Professionnel’s Tecni.ART Beach 

Waves, while still keeping the end results 

super-shiny. Pushing the trend to the extreme 

were the big, beachy waves by Cos Sakkas of 

Toni&Guy at House of Holland, which looked 

as though models had come straight out of surf 

school. Go on, take it easy. 

House of Holland 


Zeynep Kartal 

Images courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel, Redken and Toni&Guy 

GET THE LOOK 

VALENTINO 

Alexander Wang 

HAIR: Guido for Redken 

THE LOOK: Natural hair, 

emphasising the models’ individual 

hair textures 

HOW: Hair was by washed with 

Redken Diamond Oil Glow Dry Gloss 

Shampoo and Diamond Oil Glow Dry 

Detangling Conditioner. A coin-sized 

amount of Redken No Blow Dry Cream 

was applied to crown and throughout 

Victoria Beckham 

Givenchy 

lengths to define texture. A natural 

middle parting was created and the 

hair was allowed hair to air dry. The top 

of the hair was softly blow-dried the to 

smooth it out. If needed, additional 

texture was added into lengths with a 

1.5-inch curling iron to create an easy, 

natural wave. Hair was finished with 

Redken Fashion Work 12 to smooth 

any flyaways around the hairline. 


Erdem 

NO SUCH THING 

AS TOO MUCH 

FOR S/S18, MORE IS MORE. UP OR DOWN, HAIR IS PRIMPED AND PLUMPED, 

WHICH IS WHY THE MODERN-DAY MUSE NEEDS A MODERN-DAY MOUSSE: 

INTRODUCING TECNI.ART REBEL PUSH-UP BY L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL 

IS THE MOUSSE COMEBACK UPON US? 

Didn’t it disappear along with shoulder pads and acid-washed 

jeans? It seems the hiatus is over and a comeback is in full force! 

It complements the other great revival this season – the return of 

the perm – people are looking for products to give their hair that 

added oomph, but with a more natural texture result. 

Featuring new technology, Rebel Push-Up is L’Oréal 

Professionnel’s first-ever texturising powder-in mousse. This 

innovative take on the mousse provides that desirable plumped 

volume but with an undone texture. 

It has all the softness and manageability of a mousse, but with 

the texture and durability of a powder. It’s also incredibly easy to 

distribute through the hair to get a lightweight support layer for 

achieving long-lasting volume or as a base for an up-do. 

Rebel Push-Up joins the popular extreme volume powder 

spray, Savage Panache, within the Wild Stylers 60’s Babe 

Tecni.ART family and kick-starts a year of celebration of artistry 

as Tecni.ART turns 25. 

When Tecni.ART began, it set out to offer styling products that 

would stimulate stylists’ creativity by giving them innovative and 

easy-to-use formulas. This is where the name Tecni.ART came 

from – technology meets artistry. 

Tecni.ART is now considered an essential range for creating 

any look, particularly at Fashion Week when high-performance 

products are required. 

Tecni.ART can be seen backstage at all the top Fashion Week 

shows, providing the base and support required to create every 

kind of look from sleek and matte to voluminous and high shine. 


RUNWAY ADVERTORIAL 


Éthologie 


Stephen Low, 

Neville Hair & Beauty 

“Rebel Push-Up is a modern-day mousse 

equivalent. Its texture gives additional 

control to help achieve most looks, making 

it the must-have accessory for any session 

kit. I use it backstage at Haute Couture and 

Fashion Week to prep and style for a clean 

finish without residue” 

Adam Reed, 

Percy & Reed 

“Rebel Push-Up is an essential foundation 

base for any session styling kit. It is soft and 

light, while the powder additive gives a more 

natural mousse texture to the hair – think 

of it as the Aero chocolate of the mousse 

world. Perfect for creating classic looks to 

modern, textured styles” 

GET TECNI.ART IN YOUR SALON TODAY. CALL 0800 0304034 OR VISIT LOREALPROFESSIONNEL.CO.UK 

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HOW HAIR HAPPENS 

HEAD BACKSTAGE WITH THREE OF THE GLOBE’S PREMIER STYLISTS 

AND SEE THEM SHAPE FUTURE TRENDS FOR THE S/S18 SEASON 

To create a slightly 

gritty texture, Duffy 

prepped the hair with 

a combination of 

L’Oréal Professionnel 

Tecni.ART Pli and 

Wild Stylers Beach 

Waves before blasting 

it dry. 

Hair was combed into 

a deep side-parting 

and the bottom half 

was smoothed against 

the head using L’Oréal 

Professionnel 

Infinium Hairspray. 

THE SHOW TOPSHOP UNIQUE 

THE LEAD DUFFY FOR L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL 


RUNWAY HOW HAIR HAPPENS 

The bottom half of the 

hair was then pulled 

into a tight ponytail 

and secured with 

elastic to remove 

weight, in contrast 

with the opposite side. 


Mythic Oil was a hero 

product at the show 

– Duffy smoothed it 

through the lengths to 

create shine and a 

slightly sweaty finish 

for these party girls. 

With one slick and one 

wavy side, this 

Versace-inspired look is 

perfect to show off the 

sparkling earrings that 

glittered on the catwalk. 

Using a one-inch 

curling iron, hair was 

tonged to create loose 

waves – each section 

was curled in a 

different direction to 

maintain a perfectly 

imperfect look. 


THE SHOW ERDEM 

THE LEAD ANTHONY TURNER FOR L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL 

The foundation for this 

season’s Erdem show was 

built using a combination 

of L’Oréal Professionnel 

Tecni.ART Pli and Tecni. 

ART Full Volume Extra 

Mousse to create 

strength and hold. 

Anthony Turner and 

his team sectioned 

off a triangular piece 

at the front of the 

hair, and pulled the 

rest into a ponytail to 

be tightly tonged. 

The front section was 

back-combed and 

rolled under, creating 

an asymmetric 

faux-fringe. The bobby 

pin holding it was left 

exposed for a DIY feel. 




Infinium Hairspray 

and water was misted 

over the hair to hold 

everything in place and 

provide a dewy finish. 

Wisps of hair were left 

free, as if models had been 

out dancing. Anthony 

described the look as 

being inspired by the 

ultimate night out – “the 

Queen dancing in a 

Harlem jazz club”. 

The black bows matched 

the winged eyeliner 

created by beauty 

legend Val Garland, 

and paired with 

glitzy earrings fit for 

HM herself. 

The ponytail was topped 

with a beautiful black 

bow, which was placed 

at the nape of the neck. 

The curls in the ponies 

were left rolled and 

unbrushed, for a 

vintage feel. 


THE SHOW DAKS 

THE LEAD STEPHEN LOW FROM NEVILLE HAIR & BEAUTY 

FOR L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL 

Stray hairs were 

allowed to fall out of 

the twists and frame 

models’ faces, while 


Infinium hairspray 

was misted over to 

finish the look. 

Filippo Scuffi, creative 

director at DAKS, 

allocated one of two looks 

– either up or down – to 

each model. For the first, 

Stephen Low (pictured 

above) and his team 

prepped hair with 


Tecni.ART Liss Control, 

dried it off and twisted it 

into a high bun. 

Each bun was secured 

using three or four 

bobby pins. They had 

an undone feel, as if the 

models had put their 

hair up themselves. 



For the second style, a 

gritty, worn-in texture 

was created with 


Tecni.ART Wild 

Stylers Beach Waves 

and a rough blow-dry. 

The look was set with 

a blast of cold air from 

the hairdryer. With a 

centre-parting and 

luxurious waves, these 

fresh-faced models are 

pretty as a picture. 

Images courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel 

Large sections of hair 

were loosely wrapped 

around a medium 

barrel tong. Hair was 

then left to set in a 

chignon and released 

before the girls took 

to the catwalk. 

The dandyish 

tailoring and candy 

cane stripes set the 

tone perfectly for a 

catwalk show that 

celebrated English 

eccentricity. 


RE: CREATE 

SMALL BUT MIGHTY, THESE ARE THE MICRO-TRENDS TO START CHANNELING 

RIGHT NOW, AS SELECTED BY CASSIE STEER 

BOY BOBS 

Alexander Wang 

Bottega Veneta 

MAN! I FEEL LIKE A WOMAN had to be the backstage 

soundtrack of S/S18 if some of the androgynous ’dos we were 

anything to go by. Grooming techniques were at the forefront 

when it came to haircuts, and we spied several styles which 

wouldn’t go amiss in a barber shop. Take Guido’s gamine, Mia 

Farrow-inspired crop at Calvin Klein. “The chunky pieces cut 

through the front instantly gave each girl a tomboy quality,” he 

says. Nothing wrong with a bit of gender blending… 

Calvin Klein 

STRICT MACHINE 

IT’S TIME TO take control 

and whip those partings 

into shape like the razorsharp 

lines at Xiao Li. ‘You 

are a Fashion Robot’ was 

the inspiration behind the 

look, which stylist Efi Davies 

from Toni&Guy interpreted 

as super-structured 

partings created by using 

lashings of hairspray close 

to the scalp which was then 

dried in (netted fabric was 

put over hair first). Rulers at 

the ready! 

Xiao Li 

GET A GRIP 

JUST BECAUSE it’s functional, doesn’t mean it can’t look 

pretty. Case in point: the rainbow of multi-coloured grips 

holding sections in place at Eudon Choi. 

Eudon Choi 


RUNWAY RECREATE 

Marc Jacobs 

IT’S A WRAP 

NOTHING SAYS CHIC quite like a headscarf and we were tying ourselves in knots over the 

throwback vintage glamour of the silk wraps at Marc Jacobs. “It’s an old technique,” divulged 

Guido backstage. “I used a combination of gel, hairspray and water, depending on the hair’s 

texture, to tightly wrap the hair so the snoods and scarves fit comfortably on the head.” 

POWDER ROOM 

HERE’S A RECIPE FOR 

SUCCESS – grab a tint 

bowl and a generous 

dollop of Tecni.ART 

Super Dust by L’Oréal 

Professionnel. Apply 

with a brush to centreparted 

roots à la 

Electric Hairdressing’s 

Mark Woolley at 

Caplanentwisle at On|Off. 

Serve with swagger for 

optimum stand out. 

Caplanentwisle 

Pam Hogg 

CHERRY BOMB 

IN THE INTERESTS of equality we should point out that it’s not just the girls 

having all the follicular fun this season. Cue the flaming-hot cherry-red hue 

sported by the only male model in the Pam Hogg show. Stylist Sophie Springett 

for Toni&Guy used a round brush to blow out the front of the hair and at the 

back she tonged random sections to give it a bit of a bend. 



WET SPELL 

THE FORECAST for S/S18? Wet-look ’dos that had a distinctly 

accidental ‘caught out’ feel to them. “It’s like she’s coming out 

of the sea or a pond,” said Guido of the look at McQueen. “I 

drenched the hair in gel and left it to dry so that it’s a little dark, 

a little romantic and a little strange.” 

Coach 


Dior 

ALL THAT GLITTERS 

Dolce & Gabbana 

MAGPIES WILL rejoice at the veritable treasure trove of hair 

embellishment on show this season. Slide into 2018 with a 

chic gold barrette à la Versace, or go a tad more ornate with 

a bejeweled headband as seen At Dolce & Gabbana 

(show-stopping floral head-piece optional). 

Versace 

CROWNING 

GLORY 

ADD SOME prettification to your plaits – as 

demonstrated to beautiful effect at the Tata Naka 

show where Toni&Guy’s Cos Sakkas set about weaving 

coloured ribbon through halo braids. The look is feminine 

and youthful, so make like Cos and his team and pull out 

bits around the hairline for a softer, carefree feel. 

Tata Naka 


Haizhen Wang 

I’M WITH 

THE BAND 

RUNWAY RECREATE 

FEEL THE BURN 

SIDEBURNS JUST got sexy thanks to Guy Kremer’s Jonny Engstrom at the 

Haizhen Wang show. Inspired by romantic warriors, Jonny started by etching 

in a side parting before securing the hair in a low ponytail at the nape of the 

neck leaving the two sections at the front loose. Working L’Oréal Professionnel 

Tecni.ART Density material through the top of the hair he placed a clip below 

each eye which were removed just before the show for a subtle indent. 

Miu Miu 

HEADBANDS ARE often 

seen as a lazy girl’s go-to 

when styling hair seems a bit 

too much. Trust Miu Miu to 

make them chic, minimal and 

utterly covetable, especially 

when partnered with a mini 

bump of a beehive. 

SPIN SPIN SUGAR 

Images courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel, Redken and Toni&Guy 

Éthologie 

DUST OFF YOUR CRIMPERS as ’80s 

texture is back, and so too is its BFF, 

mousse! Reminiscent of candy floss, 

this look is anything but sweet, proving 

frizzy texture can still be tough. At 

Éthologie, stylist James Galvin for Daniel 

Galvin divided his high ponytail into 

a strict-braided faux-hawk at the top 

while lengths were prepped with L’Oréal 

Professionnel Tecni.ART Full Volume 

Extra Mousse for structure, before being 

crimped and backcombed. And with 

new L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.ART 

Rebel Push-Up, the first texturising 

powder-in-mousse, you can deliver 

more, more, more in a modern way. 

Éthologie 

Spring/Summer 2018 RUNWAY 

33

HOW TO 

GET FROM 

John Smedley 

Jonny Engstrom 

Lauren Bell 

Felder Felder 

HERE… 

Haizhen Wang 

Ashley Isham 

ALWAYS WANTED TO GO FROM THE SALON TO FASHION WEEK? 

FOR THESE TWO HAIRDRESSERS, THE DREAM CAME TRUE 

FASHION WEEK CAN BE MYSTERIOUS. You can see the exclusive 

happenings unfold on social media, but how do you actually get there, 

backstage, in the thick of it? Well, it comes down to buckets of hard work, 

plenty of perseverance, and maybe a little help from L’Oréal Professionnel, 

as session regulars Jonny Engstrom and Lauren Bell discovered. 

Jonny Engstrom, art director at Guy Kremer, found his way to session 

styling via a win at one of the most prestigious hairdressing competitions 

in the world. “When I left Sweden to work for Guy Kremer in the UK, my 

dream was to work backstage at London Fashion Week,” he explains. 

“My journey with L’Oréal Professionnel started when I won the L’Oréal 

Colour Trophy in 2001. Then I went on to do my own seminars, teaching 

around the world, and this led to doing great shows at Central Saint 

Martins and London College of Fashion with their graduate students.” 

Lauren Bell, senior stylist at Haringtons in Soho, has always been 

fascinated by the world of fashion – a world that she now regularly works 

in, assisting backstage for top hairdressers. “Now, when I think back to 

when it was a dream, it feels amazing to have achieved it,” Lauren says. 

Lauren joined the L’Oréal Professionnel ID Artist Programme in 2015, 

which gave her the opportunity to make the leap into session styling. “The 

ID Artist Programme is a great tool for getting an insight into how session 

hair works,” says Lauren. “By working with like-minded people, you can 

share ideas and hear about events.” 

The L’Oréal Profesionnel ID Artist Programme gives you access to 

education from top session stylists and a chance to practise your skills 

with them in person. “The education we received really inspired me and 

helped elevate my knowledge in preparation for being backstage,” explains 

Lauren. “It would still be just a dream to work backstage at London 

Fashion Week if I hadn’t auditioned for the ID Artist Programme.” 

Both Lauren and Jonny have worked backstage at a host of prestigious 

fashion shows – Jonny has done hair at Fyodor Golan, Jean-Paul Gaultier, 

Erdem, John Smedley and led shows at On|Off and this season’s Haizhen 

Wang, while Lauren has worked on teams at Topshop Unique and Graduate 

Fashion Week among others. Through session styling, Lauren was given 

the opportunity to learn from her idol. “My highlight was getting to assist 

Richard Phillipart,” she explains. “His work is definitely my hair crush, so 

when I got to assist him at the Bouyez show, it was super-exciting for me to 

see how he works and see his vision put into practice. The show was fun and 

I got to assist alongside some of the other ID Artists.” Meanwhile, Jonny has 

relished the chance to see some of the most incredible clothes in the world: 

“My session styling highlight was leading the hair team at Stéphane Rolland 

during Paris Couture Week in 2011 – it was an amazing opportunity to see 

how the dresses are handmade, like beautiful art.” 

Fashion Week requires a specific combination of skills, which both 

Jonny and Lauren have developed during their time on session teams. 

“I think the most important thing is product knowledge – get to know the 

products you’re using, how they work, try different ways to apply them and 


RUNWAY FROM A TO Z 

Winchester School of Art Graduate Show 

Winchester School of Art Graduate Show 

Graduate Fashion Week 

On|Off 

Bouyez 

TO HERE! 

Graduate Fashion Week 

C L A S S R O O M 

T O 

CATWALK 

WANT TO SWOT UP ON 

YOUR FASHION 

KNOW-HOW? THESE 

COURSES FROM L’ORÉAL 

PROFESSIONNEL CAN 

HELP YOU GET THERE! 

FASHION WEEK 

INSIGHTS WEBINAR 

The Fashion Week Insights trend education 

webinar will give you the lowdown on London 

Fashion Week and what you can expect to see 

requested in your salon. The first Fashion Week 

Insight webinar will be available on Access on 

20 February, between 7pm and 8pm, with 

Adam Reed from Percy & Reed. 

Fashion Week images courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel 

learn what hair texture to use them on and why,” explains Lauren. “It’s also 

important to remember that we’re all working as a team backstage, so help 

everyone out when you can. Keep your kit organised and I’d recommend 

getting a pinny – it’ll be your best friend! 

“Working backstage is very different from salon work, as you need to 

be fast and very adaptable,” says Jonny. “Have a good session kit full of 

products that are not too heavy. You also need to have all the classic skills 

– tonging, blow-drying, back-combing and hair up. And most of all, you 

need to be gentle when working with professional models. Happy models 

equal a happy show!” 

Session work might be lots of fun, but it’s important to get the balance 

right with your salon work too. “Combining session and salon is not easy,” 

admits Jonny. “Clients sometimes complain when you go out of the salon, 

but they like to hear that you are involved with fashion.” Counteract any 

upset by showing your clients that the skills developed backstage can be 

brought back to the salon, and they’ll not only feel on trend, but also like 

they’re getting something extra from their salon service. 

“I feel like salon and backstage work go hand-in-hand – there is 

definitely less chatting backstage but the fundamentals are the same!” 

agrees Lauren. “Being backstage has made me think more about the 

steps that go into creating a look, so now I work with more structure and 

thought. My clients love to keep up with the trends, so I filter the runway 

looks into something more salon-friendly.” 

FASHION INSPIRATION 

HAIR DRESSING 

If you’ve already got foundation experience 

in long hair, then this course will help you 

discover new fashion-forward styles. It’s a one 

day confidence booster for any hairdresser 

who loves fashion. 

ID ARTISTS PROGRAMME 

The L’Oréal Professionnel ID Artists 

programme has one goal: to find, nurture and 

develop talented individuals who could be the 

future stars of the hairdressing industry. If you’re 

one of the lucky handful that are picked to 

become ID Artists, L’Oréal Professionnel will 

help you fulfil your potential. If you want to try 

your luck, or you’re a salon owner with a rising 

star who needs a challenge, get an audition 

booked on Access. 

For more details on L’Oréal Professionnel 

education and opportunities, visit 

lorealaccess.com/uk 


THIS 

CHARMING MAN 

Harry Evans winning the 2016 Talent Award at Central Saint Martins 

MEET HARRY EVANS – HE’S THE LATEST BRIGHT SPARK TO COME FROM 

CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS AND SET THE FASHION WORLD ALIGHT. 

HE TELLS RUNWAY HOW IT ALL BEGAN… 

Runway: Can you tell us about your 

fashion beginnings? 

Harry Evans: I started taking in interest in 

fashion when I was about 14. I was really into 

Vivienne Westwood and Comme Des Garçons 

and I saw fashion could be a means of selfexpression 

and creativity – then I realised it 

was something you could study and actually 

do for a living. 

R: Central Saint Martins has produced so many 

fashion greats – what was it like to study there? 

HE: It was amazing. When I started my BA 

degree we were in the old Charing Cross Road 

building and there was a blue plaque in the 

reception to say the Sex Pistols had played 

their first gig there. I stayed at Central Saint 

Martins to do my MA as well, so I had the full 

experience. I learnt to always be yourself and 

how to cultivate that in your work. The other 

important thing I learnt was that if you don’t 

ask, you don’t get. 

R: Where does your inspiration come from for 

your work? 

HE: My inspiration comes from everywhere, it’s 

quite eclectic. I always reference things I love, 

that excite me. My S/S18 collection references 

cave paintings and Iron Age artefacts, ‘90s 

Versace, Siouxsie Sioux, Byzantine jewellery, 

’50s theatre costumes and Cher. The spirit 

of the collection was really inspired by my 

grandma, who recently passed away. 

R: L’Oréal Professionnel sponsors both the 

Central Saint Martins graduate show and the 

Talent Award, which you won in 2016 – how 

did this accolade impact your career? 

HE: It was not only a huge honour, but also 

a bit of a dream come true, as cheesy as that 

sounds! It’s amazing to somehow be connected 

to so many other amazing designers who have 

won previously, and having a bit of money after 

graduation really gave me time to relax for a 

bit and think about what I wanted to do next, 

which was definitely beneficial. 

R: You have worked at Meadham Kirchhoff 

and Céline – what did each of these incredible 

brands teach you? 

HE: They were two extremely different 

experiences. Meadham Kirchhoff really 

taught me everything – I learnt about how to 

put together a collection, a huge amount of 


RUNWAY CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS 

Harry backstage at his S/S18 show 

T E A M 

CAPTAIN 

WE CORNERED SESSION 

STAR ADAM REED F O R 

TWO MINUTES TO FIND 

OUT WHAT IT’S LIKE TO 

WORK WITH FASHION’S 

BRIGHT YOUNG THING 

Runway: What was it like working on Harry 

Evans’s first LFW show? 

Adam Reed: It was great. I’ve always loved working 

with young talent and Harry is the epitome of it. 


technical knowledge and was also working 

somewhere making the most amazing clothes 

I’ve ever seen. At Céline I learnt a lot about 

finesse and fine-tuning things. It was wonderful 

to be part of such a huge and influential brand. 

R: You showed your S/S18 collection at a 

house off Brick Lane. How was this presentation 

put together? 

HE: The presentation was hosted by Fashion 

East, who are a great group of people, and 

they organised the location and put on the 

event. For me, this collection was about 

re-finding my identity. I realised that while 

working for someone else I’d stopped 

thinking about my work in the same way, 

so I feel really lucky that I not only had the 

chance to create a collection but also for it to 

be a way to reconnect with my 

own work. 

R: How did you come up with 

the hair looks with Adam Reed? 

HE: Hair, make-up, casting, 

music and lighting are all as 

important as the garments 

themselves – all the elements 

need to work together. I had lots 

of references and ideas I wanted 

to try, and we worked on a couple 

of these different ideas to come up 

with the look. The brief I gave was that 

it should look really rich and lovely, 

but not too dressed or over-worked. 

Adam and his team did a fantastic job, 

it was brilliant to work with him. 

R: What was the hair brief ? 

AR: To make the models look the best that they 

could be, so we created a great finish and 

subtle movement. The clothes were all quite 

statement pieces so the hair had to nicely 

slot in. 

R: How did the two of you collaborate – 

what’s he like to work with? 

AR: He was really easy going and an absolute 

pleasure to work with. I popped in to see the 

collection, we had a chat and I went back the 

next day with the team to style the hair. 

R: What are you highlights from that show? 

AR: The clothes were amazing and the venue 

was incredible. I went to do the test there the 

day before and feel in love with the bright pink 

that the walls had been painted in preparation 

for the show. 


P O W 

E R 

O 

F 

T H 

E 

E 

AND THE CROWN… AND THE 

FAUX FRINGE… SESSION 

LEGEND GUIDO PALAU 

LIFTS THE LID ON HIS 

DOLCE & GABBANA 

TRINKET BOX TO DISCUSS 

HAIR EMBELLISHMENTS 

F 

L O W 

T H 

E R … 

S/S18 

S/S18 Secret Show 

A/W17 

A/W16 


RUNWAY GUIDO 

“ 

You have to look at the model’s face when 

you’re using flowers and accessories, you 

have to train your eye so you can 

play with height and width, 

just like with an up-do 

Guido Palau 

Redken global creative director 

“ 

Guido working at Dolce & Gabbana S/S18 

Images courtesy of Redken 

“IT FEELS LIKE I’ve never not worked with them!” laughs Guido Palau, 

arguably the busiest Fashion Week session lead and Redken global 

creative director, when asked how long his collaboration with Dolce & 

Gabbana has lasted. It’s early on a Tuesday morning in New York, and 

Guido is about to leave for his studio when Runway catches him on the 

phone. “It’s been about 10 years, a long time. There are eight shows a year 

that I’m working on, it’s a constant kind of relationship I have with them.” 

And it’s a relationship that, for a hair stylist, is a particularly playful one. 

Looking at the Dolce & Gabbana catwalk in the past decade and you can’t 

help but smile at the colourful, joyful clothes and the prevalence of hair 

embellishments; be they sweet and subtle ribbons or full-on regal crowns. 

It’s an element to the shows that makes them stand out. 

“The appeal is that there’s this subtle sexuality going on, and I think 

that comes from their Sicilian roots, growing up in a rural environment,” 

muses Guido. “A lot of their references are a country girl that’s not overtly 

sexy, she’s twisted up her hair and placed a fresh flower in there. They’re 

influenced by religious iconography – all very Italian and feminine.” 

And that’s reflected in the hair on the catwalk – it’s restrained, not 

too sexy but there’s a femininity that’s attractive to women. And with 

the embellishments – such as the fresh flowers, jewelled pieces or even 

something they’ve made particularly for that season – it adds to the 

colour and the celebration of that woman. And for the fashion fan, it feels 

like you could do the hair yourself; it doesn’t look too difficult, and Guido 

is convinced that’s part of the appeal. “With the help of a hair accessory, 

you can change a look in an easy way. I’m surprised that more women 

don’t put fresh flowers or leaves in their hair, because it really does have 

an impact,” he says. “Even if it’s just one single flower with a messy knot, 

it’s such an easy way to update or change your look.” 

An important element is keeping it all soft – structure is minimalised. 

“With Dolce, if I’ve done a centre-parting it’s a soft one that I’ve created 

with my fingers, pulled over the ears,” he explains. “Everything is always 

soft around the ears, the temple and the neck, there’s a nonchalance to it.” 

Of course, it’s breath-taking when those models are walking, but 

accessories present some real challenges to Guido and his team 

backstage. “Sometimes when we’re doing the couture shows, it can be very 

hot and the flowers are wilting, so we have to change out the flowers just 

before the models hit the runway,” he says. “Often gripping flowers into 

the hair can be tricky, because the designers don’t like too much product 

in the hair. So underneath we might put a little scalp braid so that there’s 

something to bobby pin it in to. And sometimes accessories can be heavy, 

so attaching it to some kind of braid beneath the shape is important.” 

When creating different personalities with the flowers, it’s just like an 

up-do in Guido’s mind – it’s all about proportion and weight, and to make 

sure it “doesn’t look too twee”. “Sometimes there are flowers AND hair 

accessories so it’s almost overloaded, and I just get buckets of flowers and 

just go at it like I’m a florist,” he chuckles. 

But he is adamant too that you need to train your eye in a more 

technical way. “You have to look at the model’s face when you’re using 

flowers and accessories, you have to train your eye so you can play with 

height and width, just like with an up-do,” he says. “Not everyone gets it 

right, and I often have to take flowers out and rearrange it when people 

don’t quite see it.” 

And there is the danger with accessories that it can go wrong and look 

like “bad wedding hair”, he admits. It needs an ease to it. “It’s important to 

keep the hair feeling soft and not looking too lacquered; let your accessory 

be the star, the hair is the back-up, the base,” he advises. “It’s important, 

those little details. With the Dolce woman, it feels and looks as though 

hands have been there, it’s not smartened with a brush, then hairspray 

and then flowers. I think you would lose the femininity. Having those 

accessories oversized makes it more whimsical.” 

But when it comes to Guido’s favourite accessory at Dolce & Gabbana, 

his choice is rather less sparkly or traditionally pretty. “A couple of seasons 

ago we did these fake fringes, it was really fun. Fake bangs in different 

colours, flowers on top… it was almost this cartoony-princess idea but 

still feminine in a modern way. It was another challenge to your eye 

about beauty,” he says. “It’s funny, we often use carnations and back in 

England they’re thought of as a rather naff kind of flower! But they’re very 

traditional and can look very beautiful.” 


BRINGING IT HOME 

FASHION WEEK IS NOT ONLY GREAT FUN FOR THOSE INVOLVED, IT ALSO 

OFFERS HUGE BENEFITS BACK IN YOUR BUSINESS – WE BREAK DOWN WHAT SALONS 

CAN EXPECT TO GAIN FROM THEIR RETURNING HAIR HEROES 

Josh Woodman and Adam Reed at Harry Evans S/S18 

THE LOOKS 

Harry Evans 

Josh’s salon recreation 

WHEN JOSH WOODMAN arrived back at the Andrew Hill salon 

after a stint working for Adam Reed at Harry Evans S/S18 during 

London Fashion Week, he was inspired to recreate the looks he’d made 

at the show. 

“I learnt so much working backstage,” says Josh. “At Harry Evans we 

created undone, loosely textured waves, but I made the look much more 

wearable for clients back home.” 

Josh recreated this look in-salon back in Devon by scrunching L’Oréal 

Professionnel Tecni.ART Wild Stylers Beach Waves into the hair and 

diffusing. He then took diagonal back sections and gently wrapped the 

hair around a tong held vertically, keeping the direction of the wrap the 

same way all over the head until he had a soft wave throughout. “I then 

pinched the parting together and sprayed it with L’Oréal Professionnel 

Tecni.ART Fix Anti-Frizz, manipulating the hair with my fingers to create 

a beautifully dishevelled wave,” he adds. “I finished the look with Tecni. 

ART Wild Stylers Next Day Hair to really exaggerate the texture.” 

Cristiano Basciu, artistic director at Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa, 

loved the messed-up bun at the Luke Anthony Rooney S/S18 show he led 

during On|Off and went straight back to the salon to recreate it for his 

clients. “This low, slightly mussed-up bun is a classic style with a modern 

twist,” he says. “It’s super-trendy and works beautifully for all face shapes 

as it can be easily personalised with face-framing wisps or partings. It’s the 

perfect day-to-night look – you can wear it with jeans and a white shirt as 

easily as a ball gown.” 

Luke Anthony Rooney 

Cristiano Basciu at Luke Anthony Rooney 

Cristiano’s salon recreation 


RUNWAY BRINGING IT HOME 

Tommy’s Hair Company’s Jennalea Cotton (right) at LFW 

Tommy’s backstage at On|Off 

Carina Hedderman from Blushes Blushes Artistic Team recreating what they learnt at LFW on salon models 

THE SKILLS 

THINK SESSION STYLING is simply a ponytail or undone hair? Think 

again. It’s fast, challenging and precise. It’s the perfect place to learn how 

to follow a brief to the letter and to speed up your styling skills. But it 

doesn’t stop there; it’s also a breeding ground for inspiration, with many 

stylists taking back what they learnt to share with their salon teams. 

Camilla Stanyer coordinates and delivers training to Tommy’s Hair 

Company in Ruthin. She dedicates whole evenings to recreating some of 

the most interesting looks from her time backstage at Fashion Week. 

“I put pictures of the looks up on the mirror and give the team the 

challenge of recreating the looks themselves,” explains Camilla. “It’s like 

the Masterchef challenge where they have to taste the dish and recreate it. 

It’s great fun and really gets the cogs whirring.” 

It was the same for Jennalea Cotton, also from Ruthin’s Tommy’s Hair 

Company. “It was great to come back from London Fashion Week and be 

able to show the team the looks that were hitting the catwalk and how 

they could be interpreted for clients,” says Jennalea. “I chose some of my 

favourite looks from LFW and I broke them down step by step, recreating 

them right in front of my salon team.” 

Jennalea found that the best thing about sharing her session 

experience was the lightbulb moments that happened back in the salon. 

“I would recreate a style and then a team member would do it, but maybe 

do something slightly differently, or use a different accessory, and the 

whole feel of the look would change. Before you know it, they are creating 

their own interpretations of the looks.” 

The Blushes Artistic Team has worked on many shows over the years, 

including Erdem, Daks and On|Off, assisting the likes of Stephen Low, 

Adam Reed, Richard Phillipart and Anthony Turner. Why do they keep 

going back for more? Because the skills and knowledge they acquire 

backstage are second to none. 

“We love bringing back a greater knowledge of products, styles and 

techniques to the salon, which we then filter through to our clients and 

staff,” says Isla Cordory, head of the Blushes Artistic Team. 

The team holds a biannual trends evening for salon staff where they 

showcase what they have learnt and the styles and trends for the season. 

“On our last trends evening, we demonstrated a range of styles, from 

relaxed waves to the more current super-sleek trend,” adds Isla. 

Isla Cordory at Erdem 

Jennalea at On|Off 


THE EXCITEMENT 

YOU’VE SHARED WHAT YOU learnt backstage with your salon team, 

but what about your clients? Social media was made for things like 

Fashion Week and is the perfect platform to not only showcase what 

stylists did after LFW, but as it happens, too. Do it well and you create the 

kind of buzz and excitement around your salon that can’t be bought. 

Jordanna Cobella, creative director at Cobella Hair and Beauty, worked 

on Daks and used social media to drum up excitement. “During the lead-up 

we did a countdown to Fashion Week on our social media channels to 

promote the news that I was going to be involved in LFW,” she says. 

Some posts were of the LFW logo, some were of models in action and 

some were pictures of hair tools and products that were going to be used. 

“We also told our clients to tune in and watch our Instagram Stories 

for live looks, backstage pictures and behind the scenes of the prep for the 

shows,” adds Jordanna, who found Instagram to be the best social media 

platform to do Fashion Week posts as they generated the most client 

interaction there. 

Finally, during LFW, the salon had its social 

media channel on display on an iPad, which sat 

on the reception desk. “This not only promoted 

what we were up to, but also doubled-up as a 

look book for clients.” 

Richard Ward’s Cristiano Basciu also uses 

Instagram to share the fashion excitement with 

followers and clients. 

“We want our clients to feel like they’re part 

of the action and to get real backstage insights,” 

he explains. “I love sharing crazy backstage 

stories with my clients and they love hearing 

about the different aspects of what we do when 

we’re not behind the chair.” 

Daks 


RUNWAY BRINGING IT HOME 

THE KIT 

WORKING AT LONDON FASHION WEEK is great 

for inspiration and an incomparable way of getting 

ahead of the trends, but it’s also an untapped mine 

of retail gold, just waiting for you to discover it and 

share it with your clients. Your clients love to see what 

hair looks were created backstage, so it makes sense 

they’re going to be just as interested to hear all about 

the products used to create those looks. 

“Behind every great LFW look is an arsenal of 

amazing products. Clients love hearing about what 

I use backstage and I recommend my hero products 

all the time,” says Richard Ward’s Cristiano. “I then use 

them on clients so that they can see the results before 

they make a purchase, which they nearly always do.” 

Tommy’s Camilla makes a point of sharing this kind 

of insider information to her clients back at the salon, 

too, and has found the salon’s retail revenue picks up 

following LFW. In particular, this season: “I loved using 

L’Oréal Professionnel’s Tecni.ART Wet Domination 

Shower Shine as it instantly gives hair a wet look and 

keeps the hair looking shiny when it dries.” 

G E T 

F A S H I O N 

WEEK 

S K I L L S F O R 

THE SALON 

FASHION INSPIRATION 

HAIR DRESSING 

Learn fashion-oriented tips from 

L’Oréal Professionnel hair-up 

specialists and try out some 

stunning styles that you’ll love to 

show off in-salon. 

NEW! 

FASHION WEEK 

INSIGHTS WEBINAR 

This trend education webinar 

will give you an insight into what 

has happened at London Fashion 

Week and what you can expect 

to see requested in your salon. 

The first Fashion Week Insight 

webinar will be available on 

L’Oréal Professionnel’s online 

education platform, Access, 

on 20 February at 7pm, with 

Percy & Reed’s Adam Reed. 

NEW! 

CREATIVE COLOUR 

Discover how to source new 

inspiration and emerging trends 

as members of the L’Oréal 

Professionnel Creative Team 

share their interpretations of the 

latest techniques. Guaranteed to 

give you a boost so you can return 

to your salon with fresh ideas. 

For more details on L’Oréal 

Professionnel education 

and opportunities, visit 

lorealaccess.com/uk 




BLANC SPACE 

RUNWAY TAKES A PEEK BEHIND THE CURTAIN AT THE ANNUAL WHITE SHOW, 

THE CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS FIRST-YEAR STUDENT SHOWCASE 

YES, YOU HAVE THE BA and MA shows from the esteemed Central Saint Martins, but 

there’s another regular showcase that illustrates what the kids are up to – the White 

Show. Every December, first year BA Fashion students, along with first year Fashion 

Communications students, are set the challenge of putting a show together that follows 

a predetermined theme. For 2017, that theme was Eyes White Open. Whether a student 

starting off or an established designer, most end up having to work through the night in 

those last days before a collection shows… which means no sleep! The show takes place 

on the long, runway-style balconies that are set across two storeys at the university’s King’s 

Cross campus. All the clothes are created in white fabrics to show the students work on an 

almost blank canvas, building up to a climax that saw a dramatic release of feathers ( from 

pillows and duvets) to resemble snow, ideal for the pre-Christmas date. 

And on hand with hair? The L’Oréal Professionnel ID Artists, with hair directors Yesmin 

O’Brien at seanhanna and Jason Hall at Jason Hall Hairdressing leading the way. Models’ hair 

was prepped with Tecni.ART Pli and some Tecni.ART Full Volume Mousse for texture, before 

being blow-dried through nets with a diffuser and finished with Infinium hairspray. With 

160 models to get ready, it’s fast, fresh and a bit chaotic – a great first backstage experience 

for the young L’Oréal Professionnel ID Artists, many of whom will have never worked on a 

fashion show before. We caught up with Yesmin, Jason and a few of the young team members 

to find out if everything was all white on the night… 


THE DIRECTORS 

YESMIN O’BRIEN from Seanhanna, London and JASON HALL from Jason Hall Hairdressing, Edinburgh 

Runway: How did you get the gig? 

Yesmin O’Brien: I was very fortunate to be asked to head the White 

Show the previous year and had great feedback so was asked if I could 

work on it again. 

Jason Hall: I work closely with L’Oréal Professionnel on lots of projects 

and when they approached me about this I rescheduled my diary to 

make sure I was available. The chance to work with the next generation of 

designers is fantastic. 

R: What was the experience like? 

YO’B: As all shows, it’s with the planning and pre-show brief meeting with 

the organisers and doing some hair looks to cement and preparation for 

the job. I did this about five weeks before. 

JH: We spent the first hour setting up our space, briefing the assistant’s 

and doing the hair demo. I always find if you take the time to do these 

things well then everyone has a nice day. The assistants where then split 

into two teams with me or Yesmin. The whole day was actually very calm, 

relaxed and really good fun. 

R: Any interesting moments? 

YO’B: All seemed to go well on the day but I was catching a plane in from 

Hamburg that morning and praying there were no delays. I had some of 

my team bring my equipment and set up for me just in case there were 

any issues with my luggage not turning up! 

JH: We had lots of hats that we had to sew to the model’s hair, balaclavas 

that were too small for the model’s heads that we had to alter; we even 

had one model that had decided to bleach her own hair a few days before 

the show and her hair was breaking every time anyone touched it! But 

because everyone was so positive the whole thing went amazingly well. 

R: Have you worked together before? 

JH: We’ve travelled all over Europe and worked on lots of big shows 

together, we even have our favourite restaurants in each of the fashion 

capitals that we meet in for dinner! 

R: What was it like working with fashion students – very different 

from the big designers you work with at the global shows? 

JH: I find most designers, no matter what stage of their career, have 

the same goal and that’s to see the vision in their head recreated on the 

catwalk. As long as you spend the time to listen and understand that 

vision then it’s always a pleasure to be involved with. 

YO’B: Every client is equally important. These are our future stars. 

R: What kept you going? 

YO’B: Cups of Earl Grey! 

JH: I’m a Diet Coke addict and L’Oréal Professionnel made sure I had a 

never-ending supply. I also think fun and laughter keeps everyone going 

so we made sure there was lots of that. 



THE ARTISTS 

HARRIET STOKES 

Not Another Salon, London 

Runway: How did you get to work at 

the White Show? 

Harriet Stokes: As a member of the 

L’Oréal Professionnel ID Artist team, 

I was selected to collaborate on the 

White Show. The ID Artist programme 

is aimed at developing the skills of the 

Artists over a two-year period, and 

gives us the chance to raise our profiles 

through their opportunities. 

R: What was the experience like? 

HS: This was my first time working 

backstage on a show of this calibre. 

I didn’t really know what to expect, 

even though styling is an aspect of the 

everyday salon experience, there is a 

dramatic difference between the two. 

It was amazing to see how everyday 

styling techniques can be adapted to 

achieve different results. 

R: What was the biggest lesson you 

learned? 

HS: The manner in which hair styling 

as a discipline is adapted, even ‘rules’ 

are broken to achieve a stylist’s vision. 

L O R A 

GRIFFIN 

Simon Webster Hair, Brighton 

Runway: What was the experience 

like backstage? 

Lora Griffin: The White Show was 

like nothing I have ever experienced 

before! Being surrounded by so many 

passionate new, young designers at 

once created a feeling of being a part of 

something really extraordinary, fresh 

and impactful. 

R: What was your highlight from 

the event? 

LG: It has to be the final line-up! Being 

able to see each look, down to the last 

detail, and the complete ensemble 

ready to go! The creativity was off the 

radar and I was constantly impressed 

by the students’ innovative ideas 

and designs. 


LG: I noticed that one of the outfits 

was accessorised with two dead fish! 

It was fabulous, but unfortunately 

made the model less than popular 

with the others, who seemed to keep 

their distance! 

SARAH BLACK 

(2017 L’Oréal Colour Trophy winner) 

NATHALIE MURRAY 

Linton & Mac, Aberdeen 

Runway: What was the experience like? 

Sarah Black: It was great to work alongside some fellow 

ID Artists – and overall it was a really chilled day, which 

was surprising as there were 160 models! 

R: What was your highlight from the event? 

Nathalie Murray: Seeing the whole look come together. 

The students’ work was out of this world; their ability 

to create some of the outfits in just a few weeks is 

crazy talent. 


SB: The majority of the models were students and the 

theme was that they all looked like they had cut and 

coloured their own hair; there were bits of hair hacked off 

and hair so over-processed. It would normally have been a 

stylist/colourist’s worst nightmare, but for this particular 

show it actually worked. 

R: What was the biggest lesson you learned? 

SB: Sometimes it’s about putting down your tools and just 

working with your hands… and lots and lots of product. 

R: What kept you going? 

NM: Naked Banana Loaf bar is my go-to behind-thescenes 

snack! 


Nathalie Murray 

Sarah Black 


Josh Wood with Stella Lucia 

SUGAR 

AND SPICE 

AT ALEXANDER WANG THIS SEASON, REDKEN GLOBAL COLOR 

CREATIVE DIRECTOR, JOSH WOOD, FUSED PRETTINESS AND 

TEENAGE ANGST FOR A PINK THAT PACKED A PUNCH 


RUNWAY JOSH WOOD 

Nina Agdal for Redken Shades EQ 

ALEXANDER WANG shows have a certain power 

about them. Each season, the fashion and beauty 

worlds watch his New York catwalk with bated breath, 

wondering what new looks will be pulled out of his 

magician’s hat: once it was an army of bleached-out 

heads, another time it was model Katie Moore’s fresh 

scarlet crop. For S/S18, it was the turn of Stella Lucia, 

whose pink waves set social media alight. 

The man responsible for transforming the Austrian 

model’s blonde hair was of course Redken global color 

creative director Josh Wood, who worked on the show 

with regular collaborator and Redken global creative 

director, Guido Palau. Together with Alexander Wang, 

they sought inspiration from Kate Moss, who boldly 

walked the Versace runway in 1999 with a pink head 

in a sea of neutrals. “We wanted one model to really 

stand out,” explains Josh Wood. “In the past we have 

had a lot of models changing their hair for a show, but 

this was a relaxed look on all of them.” 

With Alexander Wang adored as a fashion god 

among millennials, it’s no surprise that Josh offered 

up a pink shade for Stella – but this isn’t just any pink. 

Josh with Mads-Sune Lund 

The crystallised shade is pretty in some lights and edgy 

in others, forcing you to consider it from every angle. 

“I’ve called it Rose Quartz,” says Josh. “It was always 

going to be a pink, but moving away from baby pastels 

to something grungier. It shows that you can have a 

personalised tone of pink that suits your complexion. 

There’s not just one shade.” 

This gemstone effect was created using Redken’s 

colour line-up and, to avoid backstage stress, the 

colouring process was done the day before the show. 

“It took about eight hours,” admits Josh. “Some of 

this time was spent doing treatments, as we had to 

maintain the quality of the hair.” 

After all that hard work, all Stella required on show 

day was a tousle, courtesy of Guido. Her international 

modelling career meant that she had to be back to 

blonde for Milan Fashion Week. “Stella was scheduled 

to walk for Gucci the following week, and she was 

booked to have white hair, so the colour we did for the 

Wang show had to be something that we could wash 

out,” admits Josh’s first assistant, Mads-Sune Lund, 

who was on hand throughout. 

The world of hair has been rose-tinted for a while 

now, with everyone from Katy Perry to Helen Mirren 

by way of Lady Gaga flirting with a little blush through 

their blonde. Research from L’Oréal Professionnel 

has found that nearly a quarter of women (24 per cent) 

are more likely to try a bright or pastel hair colour 

now than they were a year ago. The report also 

discovered large increases in clients wanting to 

experiment with the pink hair trend right across the 

UK, and colouring hair now tops the list of reasons 

women visit hair salons. 

But have we reached peak pink, or will we continue 

to see it over the coming season? “It’s definitely going 

to stay as a huge trend,” says Josh, who recently worked 

on a Redken Shades EQ campaign that features the 

grungy pink at Wang. “It’s popular with clients as it’s 

flattering and doesn’t stain hair. Now we’re going to see 

more dusty shades of pink.” Make ours a rosé, all day. 

H O W T O 

GET ROSE 

QUARTZ 

Pre-Lightened Hair, Level 10 

Formula one: 

2 oz. Redken Shades EQ Pastel 

Pink + 2 oz. Shades EQ Processing 

Solution processed for 20 

minutes on clean, dry hair. Rinse, 

shampoo, and condition with 

Redken Color Extend Magnetics. 

Formula two: 

2 oz. Redken City Beats Ballet 

Pink + 1 oz. City Beats in Clear + 

1/8 oz. City Beats in East 

Village Violet + 1/8 oz. City Beats 

in Midtown Magenta processed 

for 20 minutes on dry hair. Rinse, 

shampoo, and condition with 

Redken Color Extend Magnetics. 


RUNWAY S/S HAIR IS… 

“ABOUT TEXTURE 

AS THE NEW 

ACCESSORY AND 

THE MOST 

VERSATILE USE 

OF PRODUCT 

DICTATES LOOKS. 

EACH HAS TO BE 

STYLED TO LOOK 

LIKE EFFORTLESS, 

SECOND-DAY 

HAIR” 

Stephen Low, 

Neville Hair & 

Beauty 

“ALL ABOUT 

INDIVIDUALITY 

– INTERESTING 

TEXTURE, SHAPES 

AND COLOURS. WE 

SAW A LOT 

OF EDITORIAL 

WET LOOKS, 

DECONSTRUCTED 

STYLES AND 

QUIRKY DETAILS 

TO GIVE LOOKS 

PERSONALITY” 

Corrado Tevere, 

Radio London 

“ALL ABOUT 

NATURAL TEXTURE 

OF THE HAIR; 

NOTHING TOO 

OVER-STYLED OR 

POLISHED. I LOVE 

A SLIGHTLY 

UNDONE LOOK 

THAT BRINGS OUT 

THE NORM BUT IS 

ACTUALLY 

PURPOSELY 

STYLED THAT WAY” 

Mark Woolley, 

Electric Hairdressing 

“ALL ABOUT BEING 

UNIQUE! HARDLY 

ANY MODELS GO 

OUT LOOKING THE 

SAME, DESIGNERS 

LOVE INDIVIDUAL 

QUALITIES. THEY 

ARE BOOKED FOR 

THAT AND 

DESIGNERS WANT 

TO WORK WITH 

THAT WHENEVER 

POSSIBLE” 

Anna Chapman, 

Session Kit 

“ABOUT 

EVERYBODY 

HAVING THEIR 

OWN UNIQUE 

SHADE OF 

COLOUR; NO 

MATTER IF YOU’RE 

BROWN OR 

BLONDE, IT’S THE 

LAYERING THAT 

MAKES IT TRULY 

YOURS” 

Josh Wood, global 

color creative 

director, Redken 

A SUMMARY OF THE SEASON, IN THE WORDS OF THE PROFESSIONALS 

“S/S18 HAIR IS…” 

“ALL ABOUT 

TEXTURE! 

WHETHER IT’S 

EMBRACING 

NATURAL TEXTURE 

OR CREATING THE 

EXACT TEXTURE 

YOU LOVE. S/S18 

IS ALSO ABOUT 

ACCESSORIES 

USING PINS, CLIPS 

AND JEWELS 

IN PARTINGS” 

Jonathan Long, 

Lockonego 

“NATURAL AND 

FREE FLOWING; 

THINK DREAMY 

ROMANTIC 

TEXTURES 

AND LONG 

CASCADING 

LOCKS” 

Richard Phillipart, 

The Boutique 

Atelier 

“ALL ABOUT 

LOOKING THE BEST 

IT CAN – SO MANY 

DESIGNERS 

WANTED THE 

GIRLS’ HAIR TO BE 

THE BEST IT COULD 

POSSIBLY BE, SO IT 

WAS ABOUT 

CREATING 

BEAUTIFUL, 

EFFORTLESS 

FINISHES” 

Adam Reed, 

Percy & Reed 

“A GREAT 

CELEBRATION OF A 

MODEL’S OWN 

STYLE. ABOUT 80 

PER CENT OF 

DESIGNERS ARE 

CELEBRATING A 

DIVERSE CASTING 

AND THEY DON’T 

WANT YOU TO 

TAKE AWAY 

PERSONALITY” 

Guido, global 

creative director, 

Redken 

“NATURAL, 

GLOSSY – IT HAS 

AN ELEMENT OF 

LUXURY AND 

FREEDOM ABOUT 

IT, WHILE STILL 

HAVING AN 

ORGANISED 

STRUCTURE” 

Cristiano Basciu, 

Richard Ward Hair 

& Metrospa 


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Runway S/S18

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