WINE WATCH ITALIAN WINES migrate back to the WINE LOVER’S GLASS by Bennet Bodenstein The annual migration is now in full bloom … the ducks and geese are headed north, as are the Monarch butterflies, while the college students are headed south. Another great migration concerns Italian wines that are heading for our shores at record speed. It has been a long time since Italian wines were the vogue. Their time was the 1960s when Chianti was king. Every bistro, pizzeria, and college dorm room had the ever-present straw covered Chianti bottle as a candle holder, resplendent with age-old multicolored melted wax drippings. As the ‘60’s departed, along with it went the Chianti rage. It was not the wine that changed, it was the wine drinker’s preferences. Americans discovered California sweet white wines and they reigned supreme during the 1970s. Italian wines languished in almost obscurity, finding their place mostly in Italian-American homes and Italian restaurants. A rather ignominious fate for something that was so popular for so many years. Today, Italian wines are again being appreciated by serious amateurs and casual wine drinkers alike. While they still make their everloved Chianti, Italian winemakers have broadened their export spectrum to include many of the indigenous grape varieties not often grown in this country. There has also been a significant increase in the overall selection of Italian wine in general. Cecchi 2015 Chianti ($12.99) Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, Chianti has been reborn. This wine is a picture perfect Chianti, with all the flavors and aromas that made Chianti an international favorite but unfortunately, it now comes without the classical straw basket bottle. This is a big and robust wine that despite all of its power, maintains a soft velvet-like character. The wine has a complex fruit aroma with the accent on plums and cherries. The flavor exhibits the same plum and cherry elements, which mingles with black raisins and just the slightest hint of oak. It is a fantastic accompaniment for Italian cuisine and a great way to relive the past. Cecchi 2015 Sangiovese Di Toscana ($15.99) This wine displays everything that has made Sangiovese wines so popular. The aroma is intense, displaying cherries, plums, and a subdued hint of fresh spices. On the palate, the wine presents a full fruit flavor and a hint of oak. The wine has a silky feel in the mouth and finishes with a long and very pleasant aftertaste. The finish is one of the outstanding features of this wine, displaying the very noticeable flavors of blueberries and blackberries. When well aged, as this one is, the wine takes on an incredible mellowness. This wine is perfect for spicy meat dishes and those accompanied by red sauces. Cecchi La Mora 2014 Vermentino ($19.99) Tired of the ordinary white wines? Cecchi gives us a chance to sample a wine from a grape not often seen in the United States, the Vermentino. This straw yellow grape announces the aroma of pear, white peach, lime, and pink grapefruit, which follows with what I can only describe as a very extraordinary finish. It is a wine with a new and novel flavor twist. Frescobaldi 2015 Montesodi ($36). Frescobaldi is another winemaker of prominence in Italy and, like Cecchi, is sending over its latest vintages. It is almost universally agreed that the Montesodi is one of Frescobaldi’s finest. The wine showcases a darker than dark ruby color while the nose is slightly spicy from aged wood, which is still present but not overpowering. The aroma also abounds with violets, blackberry, black cherry, and an unexpected balsamic element. The taste is dominated by blackberry backed up by a hint of citrus, all of which wind up in the long and velvety finish. P 78 MAY <strong>2017</strong>
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