2018 JB LIFE! Magazine Winter Edition

Kimjang:
Korea’s Intangible
Cultural Heritage
Words by Aaron Snowberger
Kimjang, Korea’s annual kimchi
making event, was inscribed
in UNESCO’s Representative
List of the Intangible Cultural
Heritage of Humanity in 2013. Although the
entire country participates in this annual event,
it has no set date, and the practice of making of
a year’s supply of kimchi varies from region to
region, and household to household. There is
no “exact science” (nor recipe) in the making of
kimchi, and the taste of each varies noticeably
between neighbors. But the practice itself is
widespread enough that it can be considered
a universal Korean activity.
The word kimchi denotes a type of vegetable
that has been fermented and preserved with
salt, seafood, and seasoned spices. There
are literally hundreds of types of kimchi
with different main ingredients, but two of
the most common are napa cabbage (배추)
and Korean radishes (무) which are both
typically prepared at Kimjang. The earliest
forms of kimchi were made without the
bright, red chili peppers it’s so known for
today. The peppers were first introduced to
East Asia in the early seventeenth century by
Portuguese traders, but didn’t find their way
into widespread use in the making of kimchi
until the early nineteenth century during
the Joseon Dynasty. In the Joseon Dynasty,
Korea was divided into eight provinces
(paldo) that are still known today, with each
region having its own particular take on
kimchi making (paldo kimchi). Some of these
differences are noted in the right sidebar:
Observing the map to the right, you might notice
that kimchi made in the northern regions of the
peninsula tends to be less spicy and salty than
that made as you progress south. This is due
to the temperatures of these regions. Kimchi
has traditionally been fermented in large jars
and stored in the ground to preserve it. Salt and
spice also helps to preserve kimchi longer, and
as temperatures warm farther south, more salt
and spice are used to better preserve the kimchi.
But these days, special kimchi refrigerators in
many homes are specifically designed to keep
kimchi at optimal temperatures for various
stages of fermentation.
According to the UNESCO filing, kimjang is an
important reaffirmation of Korean identity and
an excellent opportunity for strengthening
family cooperation and reminding the people
of their need to live in harmony with nature.
Traditionally, kimjang follows an annual cycle.
In Spring, households In Summer, they
gather shrimp and gather sea salt to
anchovies for salting drain of bittern and
and fermenting. prepare for the brine.
In late Summer, chili In late Fall, communities
peppers are harvested, take part in kimjang,
dried, and ground into making enough kimchi
powder flakes. for the winter.
• Pyongan-do (North Korea) has adapted
non-traditional ingredients in times
of severe food shortages.
• Hamgyeong-do (North Korea) uses
fresh fish and oysters in their kimchi,
due to its proximity to the ocean.
• Hwanghae-do (North Korea) does not
use red chili flakes, but makes a type
of kimchi with pumpkin (호박지).
• Chungcheong-do relies on salt and
fermentation to make savory
kimchi, rather than adding
fermented fish. It also has the
most varieties of kimchi.
• Gangwon-do stores its kimchi for
longer periods and does not add
much salted fish to it.
• Jeolla-do adds yellow corvina (굴비)
and butterfish (샛돔) to create
different seasonings for kimchi.
• Gyeongsang-do’s kimchi is saltier and
spicier, with the most common
seasoning components including
fermented anchovies (멸치젓).
• Foreign countries sometimes make
kimchi with different ingredients
like western cabbage and broccoli.
Korean housewives, mothers, and motherin-laws
monitor weather forecasts to
determine the best date and temperature for
preparing kimchi. And the kimjang tradition
and recipes are considered an important
family heritage, often passed down from
mother-in-law to daughter-in-law.
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