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Jewellery World Magazine - August 2021

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“The problem for jewellers and consumers<br />

is that most diamonds whether mined or<br />

lab-grown don’t come with information about<br />

origin… without this it’s very hard to make a<br />

claim that one or the other is better for our<br />

planet and communities.”<br />

Ben also praised Diamond Foundry who play a<br />

major role in the eco-conscious LGD scene.<br />

For Benn at Ethical <strong>Jewellery</strong> Australia, LGDs<br />

are an accepted part of the ethical and<br />

mainstream jewellery markets, and also<br />

ethically sound for the simple fact that LGDs<br />

aren’t mined.<br />

“That is, the environmental damage (not just<br />

carbon emissions) from mining weigh more<br />

heavily than anything else,” he said.<br />

Benn acknowledged LGDs’ large carbon<br />

footprint and said for this reason there are<br />

good and not-so-good producers.<br />

Zoe Pook<br />

“Our preferred suppliers use renewable<br />

energy in the manufacture and cutting of their<br />

diamonds, so we get the best of both worlds.”<br />

Zoe Pook<br />

Precious<br />

metals of<br />

provenance<br />

With initiatives like<br />

Fair Trade Gold,<br />

Fairmined Gold<br />

and Single Mine<br />

Origin (SMO) Gold, it would seem gold is<br />

much further ahead than diamonds in terms<br />

of traceability, ethical mining and trade, with<br />

seemingly far more options in the market for<br />

ethical gold.<br />

Inspira Diamonds<br />

Benn said that Fair Trade, Fairmined and<br />

SMO gold purveyors have generally improved<br />

traceability by isolating their supply chains<br />

from mainstream markets.<br />

“Typically a reseller will need to be licenced by<br />

the marketing body before they can promote<br />

themselves as a user/supplier of the product,”<br />

he said.<br />

“In this way, Fairmined, Fair Trade or SMO gold<br />

can be traced back to the mine or mines it<br />

originated from.”<br />

He said that marketing bodies such as<br />

fairmined.org that aggregate their gold supply<br />

from various certified mining operations<br />

to ensure miners are relatively well paid,<br />

their working<br />

conditions are<br />

relatively safe,<br />

the mining<br />

operations are as<br />

environmentally<br />

conscientious<br />

as they can<br />

Chemgold<br />

be, and their<br />

communities are well supported.<br />

“To this extent, Fair Trade/Fairmined gold<br />

represents a responsible sourcing option.”<br />

Chemgold is a Sydney-based precious metal<br />

supplier, jewellery service business and a<br />

member of the Responsible <strong>Jewellery</strong> Council<br />

operating for more than 30 years. Director<br />

Darren Sher said that their business only uses<br />

precious metals mined with an eco-friendly<br />

approach.<br />

“Protecting human rights and upholding our<br />

social responsibility<br />

are also key factors in<br />

our manufacturing<br />

process,” he said.<br />

Their supply chain<br />

policy mandates<br />

that precious<br />

metals supplied from<br />

Chemgold are not acquired through human<br />

rights violations such as child labour or<br />

slavery, do not serve or support criminal or<br />

terrorist activities such as money laundering,<br />

and were not<br />

extracted or<br />

processed in<br />

ways which<br />

destroy the<br />

earth’s surface<br />

or harms the<br />

environment.<br />

Chemgold<br />

“We demand<br />

corresponding<br />

evidence from our suppliers and actively<br />

support them in implementing these values in<br />

their supply chain,” Darren said.<br />

For Zoe, Fair Trade, Fairmined and SMO gold<br />

are the only certifications which guarantee<br />

the gold’s origin and make an actual difference<br />

to the amount of artisanal gold miners in<br />

the industry, where<br />

health and safety<br />

conditions are poor<br />

and corruption is rife.<br />

“I could buy<br />

‘Australian Gold’ but<br />

who is that helping?<br />

Rich mine owners,<br />

that’s who. It’s not an<br />

‘ethical’ choice,” she<br />

said.<br />

Chemgold<br />

Ben Manning said<br />

that Fair Trade,<br />

Fairmined and SMO<br />

gold has shone a small spotlight on the issues<br />

and shown what’s possible forresponsible gold<br />

mining and traceability. However, he doesn’t<br />

believe that it has yet changed the enormous<br />

problems with Artisanal and Small Scale gold<br />

Mining (ASM) around the world.<br />

Ethical <strong>Jewellery</strong> Australia<br />

24<br />

jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

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