Jewellery World Magazine - August 2021
Create successful ePaper yourself
Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.
“The problem for jewellers and consumers<br />
is that most diamonds whether mined or<br />
lab-grown don’t come with information about<br />
origin… without this it’s very hard to make a<br />
claim that one or the other is better for our<br />
planet and communities.”<br />
Ben also praised Diamond Foundry who play a<br />
major role in the eco-conscious LGD scene.<br />
For Benn at Ethical <strong>Jewellery</strong> Australia, LGDs<br />
are an accepted part of the ethical and<br />
mainstream jewellery markets, and also<br />
ethically sound for the simple fact that LGDs<br />
aren’t mined.<br />
“That is, the environmental damage (not just<br />
carbon emissions) from mining weigh more<br />
heavily than anything else,” he said.<br />
Benn acknowledged LGDs’ large carbon<br />
footprint and said for this reason there are<br />
good and not-so-good producers.<br />
Zoe Pook<br />
“Our preferred suppliers use renewable<br />
energy in the manufacture and cutting of their<br />
diamonds, so we get the best of both worlds.”<br />
Zoe Pook<br />
Precious<br />
metals of<br />
provenance<br />
With initiatives like<br />
Fair Trade Gold,<br />
Fairmined Gold<br />
and Single Mine<br />
Origin (SMO) Gold, it would seem gold is<br />
much further ahead than diamonds in terms<br />
of traceability, ethical mining and trade, with<br />
seemingly far more options in the market for<br />
ethical gold.<br />
Inspira Diamonds<br />
Benn said that Fair Trade, Fairmined and<br />
SMO gold purveyors have generally improved<br />
traceability by isolating their supply chains<br />
from mainstream markets.<br />
“Typically a reseller will need to be licenced by<br />
the marketing body before they can promote<br />
themselves as a user/supplier of the product,”<br />
he said.<br />
“In this way, Fairmined, Fair Trade or SMO gold<br />
can be traced back to the mine or mines it<br />
originated from.”<br />
He said that marketing bodies such as<br />
fairmined.org that aggregate their gold supply<br />
from various certified mining operations<br />
to ensure miners are relatively well paid,<br />
their working<br />
conditions are<br />
relatively safe,<br />
the mining<br />
operations are as<br />
environmentally<br />
conscientious<br />
as they can<br />
Chemgold<br />
be, and their<br />
communities are well supported.<br />
“To this extent, Fair Trade/Fairmined gold<br />
represents a responsible sourcing option.”<br />
Chemgold is a Sydney-based precious metal<br />
supplier, jewellery service business and a<br />
member of the Responsible <strong>Jewellery</strong> Council<br />
operating for more than 30 years. Director<br />
Darren Sher said that their business only uses<br />
precious metals mined with an eco-friendly<br />
approach.<br />
“Protecting human rights and upholding our<br />
social responsibility<br />
are also key factors in<br />
our manufacturing<br />
process,” he said.<br />
Their supply chain<br />
policy mandates<br />
that precious<br />
metals supplied from<br />
Chemgold are not acquired through human<br />
rights violations such as child labour or<br />
slavery, do not serve or support criminal or<br />
terrorist activities such as money laundering,<br />
and were not<br />
extracted or<br />
processed in<br />
ways which<br />
destroy the<br />
earth’s surface<br />
or harms the<br />
environment.<br />
Chemgold<br />
“We demand<br />
corresponding<br />
evidence from our suppliers and actively<br />
support them in implementing these values in<br />
their supply chain,” Darren said.<br />
For Zoe, Fair Trade, Fairmined and SMO gold<br />
are the only certifications which guarantee<br />
the gold’s origin and make an actual difference<br />
to the amount of artisanal gold miners in<br />
the industry, where<br />
health and safety<br />
conditions are poor<br />
and corruption is rife.<br />
“I could buy<br />
‘Australian Gold’ but<br />
who is that helping?<br />
Rich mine owners,<br />
that’s who. It’s not an<br />
‘ethical’ choice,” she<br />
said.<br />
Chemgold<br />
Ben Manning said<br />
that Fair Trade,<br />
Fairmined and SMO<br />
gold has shone a small spotlight on the issues<br />
and shown what’s possible forresponsible gold<br />
mining and traceability. However, he doesn’t<br />
believe that it has yet changed the enormous<br />
problems with Artisanal and Small Scale gold<br />
Mining (ASM) around the world.<br />
Ethical <strong>Jewellery</strong> Australia<br />
24<br />
jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>