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Jewellery World Magazine - August 2021

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News<br />

Alternate industry strategies of<br />

online business<br />

A recently released study by the leading consulting house<br />

McKinsey and Company, estimated that the ecommerce<br />

jewellery market will double in size between 2019 and<br />

2025, attaining a market share 18 to 21 percent of<br />

global fine jewellery sales, or $60 to $80 billion in annual<br />

turnover.<br />

The industry is at an inflection point, and almost certainly<br />

undergoing its most comprehensive transformation in<br />

living memory. And while the process of change has been<br />

inevitable, it has been accelerated considerably by the<br />

COVID-19 pandemic, as companies scrambled to develop<br />

online capacity in order to survive the lockdowns that were<br />

widely imposed at the start of the crisis.<br />

Rough market thrives in Antwerp and outperforms 2019<br />

Figures on the rough diamond trade in Antwerp in the first six months of the year<br />

demonstrate the city is back on track of the pre-pandemic upturn seen in the first<br />

few months of 2020, outperforming 2019 figures on rough trade with double digit<br />

growth. Polished trade, still suffering from the lack of trade shows and the effects<br />

of the pandemic in India, shows encouraging signs of recovering to normal levels.<br />

Antwerp hosted more than 75 diamond tenders in the first six months of the year,<br />

boosted by strong rough prices and the city’s unrivalled critical mass of buyers and<br />

sellers.<br />

“Despite the lingering constraints of the pandemic, with second and third waves<br />

in many places around the world, Antwerp has proven to be a safe haven for<br />

producers to sell their rough, where they can achieve consistent, high value for<br />

their goods,” said Karen Rentmeesters of the Antwerp <strong>World</strong> Diamond Centre.<br />

In H1, Antwerp imported US$5bn worth of rough diamonds, compared to<br />

US$2.7bn in H1 of the pandemic year 2020 and US$4.3bn in 2019, up nearly 15%<br />

y-o-y comparing <strong>2021</strong> with the last “normal” year 2019.<br />

While the rough business is booming, polished trade is lagging behind somewhat.<br />

“Since the outbreak of the pandemic, there have been no trade shows<br />

whatsoever, which traditionally create a lot of movement of polished goods in the<br />

industry. In addition, the devastating third wave in India in the first half of this year<br />

had a major impact on the somewhat slower trend of polished business picking<br />

up throughout the global industry, but the last three months show positive signs,”<br />

said Karen. In April, polished imports in volume in Antwerp equaled 2019 levels,<br />

jumping over the June 2019 figures and a similar trend is noticeable for polished<br />

exports.”<br />

The shift to digital business environments has been<br />

pervasive, permeating all stages of the value chain and<br />

almost all jewellery, gemstone and precious metals sectors.<br />

It is also disruptive, rendering certain business models<br />

obsolete, while providing a range of new opportunities and<br />

capabilities to those who have the capacity and acumen to<br />

thrive according to the new sets of rules.<br />

CIBJO’s July seminar looked at digital strategies and<br />

navigating jewellery’s most promising frontier. A recording<br />

of the seminar is available, along with all recent Season 2<br />

<strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry Voices seminars, on the CIBJO website.<br />

A third season of the free CIBJO seminars will return in<br />

September.<br />

The Golden Lung Necklace<br />

A giant gold necklace worn by model Bella Hadid has<br />

created a sensation at the Cannes film festival.<br />

Hadid’s haute couture gown by<br />

Schiaparelli was cut low and wide<br />

to expose her bare chest. Her<br />

modesty was preserved by the<br />

elaborate gilded brass necklace,<br />

also from Schiaparelli, which was<br />

shaped like a pair of human lungs<br />

suspended from a heavy chain<br />

around her neck.<br />

Hadid’s accessories included a Phoenix ring from Chopard’s<br />

Red Carpet Collection and a pair of 18 carat rose gold<br />

Chopard earrings featuring 24.97-carats of rubies and<br />

diamonds.<br />

8<br />

jewellery world - <strong>August</strong> <strong>2021</strong>

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