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NEBBIOLO, THE PRINCE OF GRAPE VARIETIES IN NORTH-WEST ITALY BY FRANCESCO SAVERIO RUSSO PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF THE ESTATES Nebbiolo is widely considered to be the prince of Northern Italian grape varieties due to its elegance and undisputed longevity. This historic variety is widespread across North-West Italy, in Piedmont, Lombardy and Valle d’Aosta. We drill down on one of Italy’s most iconic grapes. THE CIABOT BERTON ESTATE PRODUCES 4 DIFFERENT BAROLO WINES: ROGGERI; ROCCHETTEVINO, BERTON 1961 AND LA MORRA 104 WINTER 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
ITALY GRAPE TREADING THE GRAPES AT THE TRADITIONAL GRAPE HARVEST FESTIVAL IN FONTANAFREDDA In the Unesco heritage area of the Langhe, Roero and the Monferrato hills, the variety is called Nebbiolo, but in other areas of Alto-Piemonte, Valle d’Aosta and Valtellina it takes on different names including Spanna, Chiavennasca, Prunent, Picotendro, Melasca and Martesana. The documented origins of Nebbiolo date back to the Middle Ages where it was mentioned in 1272 as being given as a gift to the King of England and Duke of Aquitaine Edward I. In 1800 it became a favourite of Thomas Jefferson who declared he wanted to import it to the USA after tasting a ‘Gattinara’. Nebbiolo took its next step forward in 1835 with Carlo Alberto in Pollenzo where, thanks to General Staglieno, the winemaker/marketer Oudart and Camillo Benso Count of Cavour, the forerunner of Barolo was born. A SLOW RIPENER Nebbiolo has significant genetic variability and as many as 90 clones have recently been identified, grouped into seven genotypes according to SNV analyses (Gambino et al., 2017). In the Langhe you can find Lampia, Michet, Rosé and Bolla. The latter two can no longer be used for the production of Barolo. Nebbiolo is mostly prevalent in Piedmont (4 500 ha), Valtellina (50 ha) and Valle d’Aosta (45 ha) but it is also grown outside Italy, in Mexico, Australia, the USA, Uruguay, Chile and other areas (such as China) for a total area of around 600 ha. Its growth cycle is long and because it ripens slowly, it can be used to produce very aromatic wines with a robust structure. It has always been planted in the best South and South-West aspects (in the ‘sorì’), and only on hilly terrain at between 200m and 450m above sea level. However, nowadays, due to climate change, some producers are experimenting with less exposed and higher altitude plantings. WINTER 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 105
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PAGES 117-130 OUR WINTER SELECTIONS
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CONTENTS COLUMNS / REPORTS 30 7 New
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EDITORIAL PHILIPPE GAILLARD - EDITO
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NEWS PUBS_CUVEES_G&G_N°50_OK_Mise
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FOUR WINEMAKERS FOR WINTER 2022 CH
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CHAMPAGNE TERROIR A MELODIC LINNET
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THE SUN SHINES OVER AMBONNAY some g
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TASTING RARE BOTTLE 95 / 100 CHAMPA
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CHAMPAGNE TERROIR will be released
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CHAMPAGNE TERROIR dant freshness wi
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THOMAS LOMBARD IN HIS VINEYARD A BA
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SOPHIE AND PIERRE DÉTHUNE “Perha
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LAURIANNE LEJOUR IN FRONT OF THE GR
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CHAMPAGNE TERROIR here though is di
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4 covers: France, Italy, Spain, Sou
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SOUTH-WEST FUTURE A LOOP OF THE LOT
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SOUTH-WEST FUTURE products side by
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DIDIER PELVILLAIN IN THE WINERY FAB
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SOUTH-WEST FUTURE vineyards, lendin
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THE TEAM AT CHÂTEAU LAMARTINE meth
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SOUTH-WEST FUTURE 7 TH -GENERATION
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RHONE VALLEY TRAVEL PEBBLES STORE U
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RHONE VALLEY TRAVEL accounting for
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THE TEAM AT CHÂTEAU MONGIN PROVIDE
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RHONE VALLEY TRAVEL appellations ha
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THE MABY FAMILY HAS BEEN PRODUCING
Page 53 and 54: Demoulin, current chairman of the T
Page 55 and 56: ITALY ORGANIC TENUTA PEDERZANA GROW
Page 57 and 58: MAURO SIRRI RUNS AZIENDA CELLI WITH
Page 59 and 60: ITALY ORGANIC TENUTA PEDERZANA AND
Page 61 and 62: THE AZIENDA AGRICOLA MONTIONI WAS E
Page 63 and 64: ITALY ORGANIC ARNALDO CAPRAI REDISC
Page 65 and 66: CZECH REPUBLIC DISCOVERY CZECH WINE
Page 67 and 68: LÉGENDES VINSELEKT MICHLOVSKÝ: GI
Page 69 and 70: CZECH REPUBLIC DISCOVERY ding broke
Page 71 and 72: CZECH REPUBLIC DISCOVERY still a re
Page 73 and 74: CZECH REPUBLIC DISCOVERY MAŇÁK WI
Page 75 and 76: SOUTH AFRICA VINEYARDS BON COURAGE
Page 77 and 78: ED BEUKES, EXPORT AND MARKETING MAN
Page 79 and 80: SOUTH AFRICA VINEYARDS “The mount
Page 81 and 82: BON COURAGE CELLAR MASTER, JACQUES
Page 83 and 84: SOUTH AFRICA VINEYARDS mineral glos
Page 85 and 86: PORTUGAL GRAPES HARVESTING IN JOÃO
Page 87 and 88: OSVALDO AMADO, HEAD WINEMAKER AT AD
Page 89 and 90: JOÃO PORTUGAL RAMOS WITH HIS SON J
Page 91 and 92: ANA MORAIS ROCHA, THE FOUNDER’S D
Page 93 and 94: GARCÍA CARRIÓN, BLAZING A PATH OF
Page 95 and 96: SINCE ITS INCEPTION, THE COMPANY HA
Page 97 and 98: SPAIN FOCUS THE ACQUISITION OF THE
Page 99 and 100: BORDEAUX DISCOVERY PATRICE BELLY IN
Page 101 and 102: BORDEAUX DISCOVERY to branch out on
Page 103: AN INCREDIBLE BOTTLE WINES THAT CAP
Page 107 and 108: ITALY GRAPE respect for the rhythms
Page 109 and 110: LÉGENDES THE LA BIÒCA WINERY TEAM
Page 111 and 112: ITALY GRAPE its ability to birth wi
Page 113 and 114: THE VAIRA FAMILY: ALDO VAIRA AND MI
Page 115 and 116: STARS & WINE TIM BURTON WITH FRANK
Page 117 and 118: PAGES 119 TO 130 TOP WINES GOODBYE
Page 119 and 120: FRANCE - CHAMPAGNE OUR WINTER SELEC
Page 125 and 126: ITALY - ROMAGNA D.O.C. SANGIOVESE R
Page 127 and 128: ITALY - UMBRIA I.G.T. OUR WINTER SE
Page 129 and 130: SOUTH AFRICA - ROBERTSON OUR WINTER
Page 132: FIND OUT MORE ONLINE FULL RESULTS O
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