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RHONE VALLEY<br />

TRAVEL<br />

appellations have different geographical characteristics<br />

and micro- climates. This is mainly due<br />

to the Cévennes mountains to the North of Lirac,<br />

which trigger more rainfall, and to a ‘Rhone bankside<br />

effect’ which means that Lirac gets more<br />

dampness from the Rhone than Châteauneufdu-Pape<br />

when the Mistral blows – Lirac is located<br />

downwind of the Rhone. “The unique site-expressiveness<br />

of the wines in the two appellations<br />

is therefore intrinsically linked to the difference<br />

in evapotranspiration of the vines. Châteauneuf<br />

wines therefore express more savouriness (more<br />

concentrated mineral salts), which is what lends<br />

them their structure, their mineral backbone,<br />

their length on the palate, and substantial ageability”.<br />

Xavier Vignon excels in the art of maturing<br />

and blending wines, which offer a faithful<br />

rendition of their terroir. Careful tasting is a<br />

very practical way of translating the explanation<br />

provided above.<br />

Extreme real estate pressure in Châteauneufdu-Pape<br />

has prompted many winegrowers and<br />

trading companies to gradually move into the<br />

neighbouring appellations of Lirac and Tavel.<br />

This is particularly true of Ogier which produces<br />

wines in numerous Rhone appellations. Its technical<br />

director Édouard Guerin reveals through his<br />

wines the specific identity of each vineyard site<br />

with his ‘crus’: “Our aim is not to produce a ‘lesser’<br />

Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the Lirac appellation, but<br />

rather to bring out the essence of its identity by<br />

focusing on the fawn-sand soils in the East of the<br />

appellation. These are very deep sandy Miocene<br />

soils, generating low water stress and fine, delicate<br />

characters in the wines. They are also cooler<br />

soils and by carefully choosing harvest dates that<br />

balance freshness and ripeness with razor-sharp<br />

precision, crisp wines with an elegant persona,<br />

gifted with very fine-grain tannins and great<br />

palatability, can be produced. The Lirac Le Petit<br />

Prince label therefore has its own personality, and<br />

sits easily within a coherent range, without being<br />

overshadowed by its prestigious stable mate.<br />

XAVIER VIGNON EXCELS IN THE ART OF BLENDING. HIS ARCANES RANGE OF<br />

POP-UP LABELS EXPRESSES THE QUINTESSENTIAL QUALITIES OF<br />

A VINEYARD SITE IN A GIVEN VINTAGE<br />

ÉDOUARD GUERIN, TECHNICAL DIRECTOR OF MAISON OGIER,<br />

PRODUCES ELEGANT WINES BY SEEKING OUT THE RIGHT<br />

BALANCE BETWEEN <strong>FR</strong>ESHNESS AND RIPENESS<br />

WINTER 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE <strong>FR</strong>ENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />

49

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