GG_N50_FR

TASTING
RARE BOTTLE
95 / 100
CHAMPAGNE
MAURICE VESSELLE
EXTRA BRUT GRAND CRU CUVÉE RÉSERVÉE
Certified High Environmental Value since 2013, the vineyards are rooted in the
southern slopes of the Montagne de Reims. The Pinot noir-dominant grapes
for this label fully encapsulate the complexity of their 100% classified site.
The house is a Montagne de Reims benchmark, renowned for its mature vintages
and vinous, food-friendly Champagnes crafted by two passionate winegrowers...
The house was created in 1955 by Maurice Vesselle. His two sons, Didier
and Thierry, are now at its helm and pamper their nine hectares of
vines in Bouzy and Tours-sur-Marne all year round, as generations of
winegrowers have done before them. They use techniques such as tillage,
hilling up, ploughing back and soil amendments that were long considered
fanciful. However, their quest for depth in the soils is now the envy of many
vineyards. By taking such a conscientious approach to loosening their soils,
the Vesselle brothers not only encourage the Pinot noir and Chardonnay vines
to put down long-lasting roots, thereby revealing the full complexity of their
Bouzy vineyard sites, they also limit the effects of drought and avoid the use
of herbicides.
When work in the vineyard is complete, the two growers transition to
winemakers to produce their range of Champagnes. This Extra-Brut Grand
Cru Cuvée Réservée label is blended from 85% Pinot Noir and 15% Chardonnay.
It is fermented without malolactic fermentation like all the winery’s bottlings,
allowing the wine to fully retain its freshness and minerality. It is then
matured on lees in the estate’s chalk cellars for five years, mostly alongside
its collection of vintage Champagnes, before Extra-brut dosage (4 grams) is
added. This Grand Cru displays a pretty golden hue. Its rich nose is redolent
of fruit paste coupled with a subtle mineral tone. The attack on the palate
is energetic and very plump with aromatic presence that grows in intensity
through to the finish, revealing a distinctive tangy touch. Once again, Didier
and Thierry Vesselle have crafted a hallmark Champagne, full of verve, which
sits nicely within the range alongside the Hauts Chemins or vintage offerings
fully equipped to withstand the test of time. The philosophy here is plain
for all to see, and that is to treat the vineyard sites of Bouzy with respect.
A potential companion for sweetbreads.
SELECTED BY
WINTER 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
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