GG_N50_FR

LAURIANNE LEJOUR IN
FRONT OF THE GRAPE PRESS
already impressive. Some of her Ambonnay grapes are deliberately fermented
separately because she can feel a nice, faint sourness in them that is typical
of the village and she wants to preserve it. Her dosages – from 0 to 6g and
often 0 – are readjusted with pinpoint precision every year. It provides her
with an opportunity to gather round a few friends and colleagues and give
them a tasting of all the wines where dosages have incremental sugar levels.
Usually, 9 out of 10 judges choose the same thing – “everybody agrees on a
good Champagne!”
BEAUMONT-SUR-VESLE
CHAMPAGNE PAUL SADI
Jérôme Portier, the house’s owner, is our guide. He owns 6.5 hectares himself
and buys grapes from a further 2.8 hectares, though he also grows these
grapes too. Arrangements in Champagne can be complex. The vineyards
include 2 ha located in Beaumont-sur-Vesle and Verzy. Beaumont has always
been considered a Grand Cru, “its status is long-standing”, explains Portier.
The reasons for this are the aspect of this Montagne de Reims village and the
proximity of a press. Although Portier obviously grows some Pinot noir, he
mostly produces Chardonnay. His Chardonnay is different though – it has
some faint Pinot noir characters, in other words it is more structured and
fruit-forward.
WINTER 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
25