GG_N52_IT

DISCOVERY
NURSERY
A VINEYARD HOUSE WITH AN EVOCATIVE NAME FOR
MERCIER - VILLA DES RAISINS
The company’s current incumbents are brothers
Guillaume, Frantz and Miguel, who
took over the torch from their father Jean-Pierre.
It was Jean-Pierre’s belief that healthy plants were
essential and he therefore established the analysis
laboratory that has since become a research and
development department. The selection centre
focuses on identifying ancient and new grape varieties.
The company’s excellence in providing an
extensive choice of varieties in prime condition
has gradually enabled it to export to over 30 wine
producing countries.
A FAMILY BUSINESS TURNED
INTERNATIONAL GROUP
Mercier also has a 70-hectare vineyard producing
wines that are all sold direct-to-consumer, most
of them white wines made from Chenin, Sauvignon
and Chardonnay. There are also rosés from
Cabernet Franc and Gamay, along with reds from
Cabernet though also Ragoûtant, the local name
for Négrette. This 360° vision of the industry encompassing
both activities is charmingly described
by Miguel in an interview with him: “Our role
goes from the vine roots to the wine glass”. Here’s
what Miguel Mercier had to say to us.
METICULOUS PREPARATION OF BOTH THE SOILS AND THE VINES AVOIDS ANY
UNPLEASANT SURPRISES
G&G: Let’s start with an important topic:
massal selection, which is deemed to
have many qualities. What is your vision of
the technique and what are its advantages?
Miguel Mercier: First of all, I should point out that
it does not necessarily conflict with clonal selection.
With massal selection, the major difference
is that our aim is to reproduce a group of individuals
and not one individual with a single genetic
heritage. It is the epitome of diversity which we
can further enhance by seeking out individuals of
the same species but in very different places, not
just in the same block. Then there is the health aspect.
By propagating anything and everything, we
began to spread viruses such as grapevine fanleaf
virus – particularly in the post-war period – and
considerably diminish the quality of vineyards,
which in fact led to the solution of cloning.
56 SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE