GG_N52_IT

SOUTH AFRICA
GRAPE
IN THE CELLAR
EARLY HARVESTING AT KLEIN CONSTANTIA
Sauvignon Blanc doesn’t need a lot of intervention in
the cellar if the vineyards are allowed to revel in the
best growing environments. Yet, the judicious use of
oak has introduced a profound chapter.
Eksteen: «We learned that Sauvignon is unforgiving
with inexact oak regimes, and we had to pay studious
attention to coopers, craftmanship and toasting
intensities. It has an affinity with large, older barrels
for the best integration.»
While some producers are fishing or exploring the
caves of the Cederberg mountains, Hermanus is
known for its abalone industry, and the pearly shell
of this protected species was the inspiration behind
Eksteen’s labels. Proudly Afrikaans speaking, his
wines are some of the few bearing Afrikaans names:
Bartho Eksteen Houtskool 2021 and Bartho Eksteen
Meester 2022 rewarded 91 points, respectively.
«From the start, our Sauvignon breezed through
fermentation without being inoculated, and year
after year, we saw a golden thread of minerality,
creaminess and integration. It fascinated me.»
A sample inside one of the barrels was analysed,
and a unique flora was discovered, likely to be the
impetus of their consistent style in the Hemel-en-
Aarde-Valley.
«We use whole bunches, a long gradual cycle, and
don’t wait for the wine to settle; it goes straight to the
barrel where it ferments wild, creating its magic.»
Hopkins regards the late Ross Gower as the father of
Sauvignon Blanc in South Africa, who revolutionised
it in the 80s with riper pickings and skin contact.
«At that time, French consultants were brought out to
advise us on how to add a broader mid-palate. They
recommended dirtier ferments, leaving more solids
in the wine to add dimension and depth. It worked.»
Nieuwoudt concurs about whole bunches, comparing
his Sauvignon components to 28 temperamental
kids that require scholarly attention.
«It is vital to ferment cold in the barrel at 14 degrees,
which is much easier to do naturally with Chenin
Blanc and Chardonnay that is not aromatic.
Wild ferments produce fatter wines that need
bottle maturation before reaching their ultimate
drinking pleasure.»
BARTHO EKSTEEN, A MEMBER OF THE CAPE WINEMAKERS GUILD,
HAS MADE SAUVIGNON BLANC A FOCUS IN HIS CAREER
SUMMER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
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