NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 1983, No. 43, $3.50 Making ... - Wood Tools

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Q & (continued) A very old pieces that come into his shop. For best results, you must have a snug fit berween the groove and the inlay, and a good glue bond. A syringe with a No. 19 needle puts the glue neatly in the groove. Some people recommend using celluloid for string inlay (available from Constantine's, 2050 Eastchester Rd., Bronx, N.Y. lO461) because it bends easily around short-radius curves and isn't affected by stain, but I have never tried it. Furniture glue will not hold it, and varnish remover dissolves it into a stringy, tubbery mess. Japanese chisels-I recently purchased a set of Japanese chisels. When used with a carvers' mallet, the chisels tend to chip or become dull fa r too quickly. This is the first set of expensive chisels I've ever bought, and I wonder if I'm expecting too much. -Richard D. Stone, Middletown, Ohio TOSHIO OOATE REPLIES: When new, a well-tempered Japanese blade is slightly harsh and on the brittle side. Most Japanese craftsmen prefer a blade that is a little harsh when new because this shows that it was properly tempered. The very fine edge becomes extremely hard when the blade is temperedharder than is easy to work with. This problem occurs more often with chisels than plane blades because a chisel edge must withstand the shock from a hammer blow. Thus, no craftsman will use a new blade, even the most expensive, as a finishing blade. A new blade, like a wild stallion, must first go through a breaking-in period called "taming the blade." Use a new blade vigorously and sharpen it frequently. Even though water is the lubricant on the sharpening stOne, pushing the blade across the stOne causes friction, which creates enough heat to slightly draw the temper of the very thin edge. To keep the cutting edge from chipping, sharpen the blade normally (see my article on sharpening in FWW #29), then feather the edge lightly on the finishing stOne. Feather for one stroke and then rub the back flat as usual. Repeat this several times. Every time It� Feathering the edge you sharpen the blade, finish by feathering. After about a �. week of vigorous use, you'll be able to omit the feathering step and sharpen the 8fpf r . blade normally. FWW If you treat the blade this way, you can tame the well-tempered blade without sacrificing its qualiry. Lapstrake plans-I've just read the lapstrake boatbuilding article in #36, and I'm particularly interested in plans, books or general information on Alfred Sovik 's contemporary Oselver boat, pictured on p. 57. What can you suggest? -Thomas M. Krause, Wauwatosa, Wis. STEVE McALLISTER REPLIES: Oselver plans, and possibly information about Sovik, can be obtained by writing to Universiteteis Oldsaksamling, & Frederiks Gat 2, Oslo, Norway, Attn: Emil Christenson; or from the Sjofartsmuseum, N-5000, Bergen, Norway. The book Norse Boatbuilding in North America has lines for and photos of the Oselver. A wonderful book on the general subject is Inshore Craft of Norway, published in 1977 by Frondahl Son, Oslo, Norway. These are both available from the Maine Maritime Museum, 963 WashingtOn St., Bath, Maine 04530. '(\ .w: ' Blade Colored inlay-A client of mine owns a 17th-century oak slant-top desk made in Flanders. Floral inlays on the lid 16 have fa int traces of green and red under what remains of the high-gloss finish. These don 't seem to be the natural colors of the wood. How were these colors applied-dye, stain or paint? -Hap Johnson, Thetford Center, Vt. ROBERT MUSSEY REPLIES: Marquetry inlays were often dyed before being cut to shape and assembled into a design. Veneers were steeped in natural dyes which, depending on the color desired, might have been a decoction of brazilwood, oak bark, madder root, french berries or scarlet-colored rags. Hundreds of old recipes document a wide range of natural materials for producing a rainbow of colors. Most of these dyes were fugitive, fading quickly on exposure to sunlight or through oxidation. Dying went out of fashion in the late 18th century, when woods with a strong natural color were more often used for marquetry. Slicing a burl-I recently acquired a piece of white oak burl, about 4 ft . in diameter, which weighs at least 1500 lb. How should it be cut? Should I keep it outside for a year or two, or should it be sawn, stacked and cured in my basement? I have a piece of plastic over the top, to keep the rain off, and I have oiled the ends. -Robert S. Wattles, Arlington, Va . DAVID HOLZAPFEL REPLIES: Yours is the job of the diamond cutter. How you cut your burl depends on what you intend to make. A turner will see turning stOck in a burl, a furnituremaker will see boards and a carver will see what needs to be removed. The burl itself, its shape, seams and end checks will also determine how it should be cut. I would recommend that you ripsaw "through and through," from tOp to bottom as the tree grows. Leave the natural edge complete with bark. Don't crosscut, else the oak will check terribly and you will lose a lot. Slice the burl as soon as you can. The wood won't really begin to dry until you do. Immediately coat the end of each board with white glue, paint or tree surgeons' pruning tar. Since you will be air-drying the wood, keep it stacked outside off the ground, and cover it with a sheet of plywood or roofing tin to keep it out of the sun and rain for a year or more. Then store it in a heated room for another year. Use a moisture meter to be sure that the wood is at lO% to 12% moisture content before you use it. Good luck. Go slowly. Finish-reviver-I recently found a recipe for a fu rniture reviver that calls for raw linseed oil, vinegar and terebene. My problem is that nobody has heard of terebene. The chemical dictionary defines it as a "mixture of terpenes, chiefly dipentene and terpenene. " Could you tell me who sells it, or if it's called by another name? -Joe Wolinski, Minneapolis, Minn. ROBERT MUSSEY REPLIES: Terebene is a generic name applied to a class of driers that were added to oils and varnishes during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Combined in formulas containing linseed oil, terebene was supposed to keep the oil from remaining sticky and gummy. One recipe for terebene I found in an early-20th-century formula book is a mixture of medium kauri (a copal varnish resin), boiled linseed oil, flake litharge (a lead oxide), resinate of manganese (another metallic oxide drier) and American turps. All of these are available tOday except kauri-which may be just as well, since readily available, commercially made driers are easier to use and probably cheaper. I don't suggest making and using this reviver. Even boiled linseed oil remains tacky for years before it finally polymerizes, and raw linseed is worse. It collects dirt and darkens with age, eventually becoming black if applied repeatedly. Linseed
How To Make National Builders Hardware Your Accuride Slide Source. These slides are so precision engineered and manufactured that they are the state-of-the-art ball bearing slide system. Accuride slides have set industry standards with ball-bearing, telescoping slides that make roller slides obsolete. They provide effortless movement and virtually never wear out. In this new ad, we show you a wider choice from our large inventory. C 13 13 Flipper Door Slides Most often used fo r horizontal and lateral files, horizontal doors and vertical single and double door cabinet applications. The C1313 is designed for use with doors of 3/4 /1 thickness, available unhanded in 11/1, 14/1, 18/1, and 24/1 lengths. Two flipper door slides, with two mounting bayonet brackets per slide, are usually required for each door application. �- --- 1 11/1 S 16.30 pr 14/1 IB/I S 16.BO pr S17.BO pr - 24/1 S 19.50 pr C40 17 Full Extension For full extension use - a heavy duty side mount right or left handed slide with an additional 1 112/1 extension - often used where case top overhang requires slide over-travel for ease in removing files . Functions smoothly in 1/2/1 minimum slide space and carries loads up to 110 pounds. Available in both zinc and black plated finishes . Add 10% to these prices for black plated finish. 12/1 S15.1B pr 14/1 S 15.54 pr 16" S 16.22 pr 1B/I S 16.95 pr 20/1 S 17.B3 pr 22/1 SIB.75 pr tY2'1 C2037-A Three-Quarter Extension For desk and credenza box drawer applications. This is the precision three quarter extension slide - light duty, side mount - featuring new super silent polymer ball bearings . C2037A is unhanoed and easy to install. It is designed to function smoothly in 1/2/1 minimum slide space and to carry up to 50 pounds. Available in both zinc and black plated finishes - add 10% to these prices for black plated finish. 14/1 $ 9.70 pr 16/1 S 9.92 pr $1O.12 pr S1O.35 pr v''' S1O.60 pr C340-176 Butcher Block Used in kitchens for cutting boards. Available in 22/1 length, full extension . . Locks into extended position for a non-moving work surface. S27.B5 pr C2002 - 22/1 Two-Way Travel Offers the popular feature of both front and back travel for access to drawers from either side of cabinet unit. Mounting tabs are formed out of the drawer member for simple drawer mounting or removal. The slide is provided with 3/4/1 extension, requires 3/8/1 slide space and is rated up to 65 pounds load capacity. $IB.50 pr C 1029 Center Mount A precision three-quarter extension slide. Mounts to N_b
Page 1 and 2: 1 1 1 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 1983, No. 4
Page 3 and 4: FINE WOODWORKING Editor John Kelsey
Page 5 and 6: & PHILADELPHIA & November 11th, 2-1
Page 7 and 8: HARPSICHORDS &: FORTEPIANOS Harpsic
Page 9 and 10: Forstner Bits- �:I.� === Planl
Page 11 and 12: HILLER HARDWARE CO. ASSURES ITEM PU
Page 13 and 14: Nu-Life Sanding Belt Cleaner • In
Page 15: Delmhorst Wood Model Moisture G-30
Page 19 and 20: Keen-Edge Co. presents Oldham Carbi
Page 21 and 22: A by Roy Underffill new The Woodwri
Page 23 and 24: ______________________ ____________
Page 25 and 26: I" by Black & Decker Black & BRAND
Page 28 and 29: offers a complete range of small, b
Page 30 and 31: 30 3/a" 6010DL CORDLESS DRILL KIT P
Page 32 and 33: ________ �Wrking_ ��::::::--:
Page 34 and 35: Miters, tape and glue I use ordinar
Page 36 and 37: ox, then cur the lid off later, com
Page 38 and 39: · .1: Fig . Proportions · section
Page 40 and 41: 57 Fig. 2: The five parts of a tote
Page 42 and 43: .;A Shop�esting Five Jointer-Plan
Page 44 and 45: duction motor, the Emco has plenty
Page 46 and 47: · , Four lmpowered bed rollers sup
Page 48 and 49: JOInter is nice, but what good is i
Page 50 and 51: Cutting Dovetails With the Tablesaw
Page 52 and 53: Goats Get Jitn Pritchard How a home
Page 54 and 55: Bookmatched doors hinged on conceal
Page 56 and 57: Scribe strip fits bumpy walls In a
Page 58 and 59: After glue-up, the fiberboard and e
Page 60 and 61: Itnproving the Fretsaw Pivot guides
Page 62 and 63: Which Glue Do You Use? Chemical typ
Page 64 and 65: Adhesive Hide glue (hot)· (Behlen
Page 66 and 67:
Disc Sander Sculpts Tur nings A way
Page 68 and 69:
After the grooves are cut on the pl
Page 70 and 71:
Spoon Bits Putting 17th-century hig
Page 72 and 73:
piece. Drying takes four to eight h
Page 74 and 75:
74 Martin In this gate-leg table, a
Page 76 and 77:
Entitled "The Nash House, No. 1 Cor
Page 78 and 79:
1: Fig. Proportions of the Ionic or
Page 80 and 81:
S.c., Adapted from an original buil
Page 82 and 83:
. HJUSE 131 -12th Avenue S.E., Calg
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Building Your Own Kitchen Cabinets
Page 86 and 87:
Some Great Magazine Gift Ideas Fine
Page 88 and 89:
HAND-HELD LAMINATE AND VENEER SLITT
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90 A Subsidiary of VA VIiAMONT AM.A
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10" CONTRACTORS TABLE SAW Cast Iron
Page 94 and 95:
The World's F-mest Chisel Has Been
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98 • LU REM Combination Woodworke
Page 100 and 101:
Woodworking Plans & Projects A full
Page 102 and 103:
NOTES AND COMMENT Have you outgrown
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Notes and Connnent (continued) 2x2
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Notes and Conunent {continued} wood
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Notes and Connnent (continued) read
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Notes and Connnent (continued) mote
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Events 15 15; ALABAMA: 15 15. 15, 1
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5/4 8/4 Moh Box be to Call or write
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all CLASSIFIED per CT The CLASSIFIE
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CANADIANS: High quality machinery a
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CHE ClICClNe; E6e;E ® JOE WORKBENC
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Now you can own the Rockwell 13" Pl
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NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 1983, No. 43, $3.50 Making ... - Wood Tools

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