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NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 1983, No. 43, $3.50 Making ... - Wood Tools

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 1983, No. 43, $3.50 Making ... - Wood Tools

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 1983, No. 43, $3.50 Making ... - Wood Tools

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not only cheaper than its American<br />

counterpart, it's also of more uniform<br />

thickness, thus making for more precise<br />

joinery. Cabinet-grade plywoods may be<br />

hard to find, but I recommend this material,<br />

even if you have to special-order<br />

it through a commercial cabinet shop.<br />

Interply voids in fir structural plywood<br />

make it troublesome to join, and its<br />

wild grain is unattractive, even if painted.<br />

Cabinet-grade plywoods are sold in<br />

dozens of species and several grade<br />

ranges. For kitchens, an A- l or A-2<br />

grade with a lumber, veneer or fiberboard<br />

core is suitable.<br />

Fig. 3: Cabinet dimensions<br />

Nail rail<br />

Height varies to suit<br />

ceiling or soffit.<br />

Support adjustable<br />

shelving with<br />

pins or dowels.<br />

5 �<br />

8acksplash is 4 in. to in.<br />

high, or to bottom of<br />

hanging cabinets.<br />

.... .. "'""---''---''"'-=-=<br />

�--------25--------�16-18<br />

J "1ilI ____ """'" :iiII :(-=· V2 1-1<br />

Shelving<br />

V2-in. hardwood ply<br />

. I 36<br />

..<br />

in ,<br />

or to<br />

suit<br />

user<br />

Carcase joinery-Begin construction by<br />

cutting the plywood, labeling and stacking<br />

each piece as it comes off the saw.<br />

Next, glue on %-in. thick by 17i6-in.<br />

wide edge-banding, which will later be<br />

ripped down to about � in. wide when<br />

the plywood parts are trimmed to final<br />

size. Wall cabinet sides get bands on<br />

their front and bottom edges. So end<br />

grain won't show at the front of the<br />

cabinet, do the bottom edge first, trim a<br />

bit off the width of the panel to flush<br />

up the joint, and then band the front<br />

edge. Once the plywood parts have been<br />

banded, trimmed to size (including the<br />

top frame for base cabinets) and carefully<br />

checked for square, you're ready to<br />

cut joints.<br />

Plywood lends itself to production<br />

machine joinery. I cut most of the joints<br />

on my shaper, but the only essential tools<br />

are a tablesaw, a router and the usual<br />

hand tools. For lumber-core and veneercore<br />

plywood, the offset tongue joint<br />

shown in figure 2, detail B, is strong<br />

and quick. Plate joints (FWW #34,<br />

pp. 95-97) or dowels are better for particleboard<br />

and fiberboard. Knockdown<br />

fasteners are suitable for either material,<br />

if you prefer that method.<br />

Whether you machine the offset<br />

tongue on a tablesaw fitted with a dado<br />

blade or on a router table, plywood that<br />

varies in thickness will cause some joints<br />

to be loose. One remedy is to machine<br />

the tongue slightly oversize and then<br />

hand-plane it to a good fit. A second, as<br />

shown in detail C of figure 2, is to feed<br />

the plywood vertically berween the fence<br />

and the dado head, with the tongue<br />

against the fence. Most X-in, plywood<br />

seems particularly scanry these days, being<br />

only 0.220 in. thick. If you don't<br />

have a 0.220-in. cutter but still want<br />

the backs of your cabinets to fit snugly,<br />

try CUtting the groove in rwo passes with<br />

a Va-in. wide blade in the tablesaw.<br />

Move the fence slightly to widen the<br />

groove for the second pass.<br />

With machining complete, you can<br />

sand the carcase parts before assembly.<br />

Glue-up is straightforward, but check<br />

carefully that everything is square, to<br />

avoid trouble when fitting the doors and<br />

drawers later.<br />

After assembly, clean up the carcases<br />

with a hand plane and/or a finish sander<br />

and ease the edges with sandpaper.<br />

Before you begin drawer and door construction,<br />

drill holes for the shelf pins<br />

using the template shown in the photo,<br />

above right. I use 5mm brass shelf pins,<br />

A plywood template, wedged inside assembled<br />

carcases, speeds boring of shelfpin<br />

holes, which should be spaced about<br />

11/2 in. apart.<br />

but dowels will also work, or, if you<br />

prefer, metal or plastic shelf standards.<br />

On narrow carcases, you may want to<br />

drill the shelf-pin holes before assembly.<br />

Doors and drawers-I figure door and<br />

drawer face sizes at the same time I calculate<br />

case dimensions, but if you're uncertain<br />

about these sizes, wait until<br />

you've completed the cases. If you're<br />

using full-overlay doors and drawer<br />

fronts, size them so that they will completely<br />

overlap the front edge of the carcases.<br />

I leave about %2 in. berween rwo<br />

doors or berween a door and a drawer<br />

front. This clearance is fine-runed later<br />

by planing the doors and/or adjusting<br />

the hinges.<br />

Concealed hinges work with plywood<br />

or solid panel doors, but they're also<br />

fine on frame-and-panel doors, provided<br />

that the hinge stile is wide enough<br />

for the cup flange, usually a 2X-in. minimum.<br />

I make my doors of %-in. fiberboard<br />

edge-banded with solid wood and<br />

veneered on both sides. To allow for<br />

trimming later, I make the edge-banding<br />

� in. wide.<br />

Choosing the veneer with the customer<br />

is the highlight of the job for<br />

57

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