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NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 1983, No. 43, $3.50 Making ... - Wood Tools

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 1983, No. 43, $3.50 Making ... - Wood Tools

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 1983, No. 43, $3.50 Making ... - Wood Tools

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Miters, tape and glue<br />

I use ordinary masking tape to clamp up<br />

a bookmatched panel for the lid or bottOm<br />

of one of my little boxes. To glue<br />

up a box's mitered corners, I supplement<br />

the tape with rubber bands.<br />

Before gluing up a matched panel,<br />

sand, plane or joint the good side of<br />

both pieces so that you can see the final<br />

figure. Then hold the pieces tOgether in<br />

front of a window or a bright light, to<br />

make sure the gluing surfaces meet exactly.<br />

If they don't, plane them until no<br />

light shows through anywhere. You<br />

don't have to fret about square edges if<br />

you fold the bookmatch good-side-in,<br />

clamp the pair of boards in the vise and<br />

plane both edges at the same time. If<br />

you machine-joint, you'll get the cleanest<br />

glueline by skimming off the mill<br />

marks with a pass of the hand plane.<br />

Both pieces of wood ought to end up<br />

the same thickness,<br />

tape<br />

but if at this stage<br />

they aren't, you'll have to take care that<br />

the good side glues up flat, with the irregularities<br />

on the back side only. To do<br />

so, lay the pieces on the bench goodside-up,<br />

and line up the figure. Run a<br />

piece of masking across the joint line<br />

to keep the figure from shifting. Next,<br />

lightly apply a strip of tape along the<br />

full length of the joint and flip the as-<br />

34<br />

Fig. A: Miter-gauge shim<br />

<strong>No</strong>tch lets<br />

'A-in . plastic<br />

shim work as<br />

push stick. �<br />

' Push to align<br />

miter gauge<br />

against saw<br />

table 's edge . .<br />

Fig . . C: Ta ping the mite..rs<br />

Fig. D: Jig for tablesawing cross-spline slots<br />

sembly over. From the back, press along<br />

the joint to stick the tape down firmly.<br />

Bend the joint open and apply glue.<br />

Yellow Titebond, as it comes from the<br />

jug, is formulated for filling gaps and<br />

thus is thicker than it needs to be for<br />

long-grain gluing. If your joint is lighttight,<br />

such a thick glue will leave a visible<br />

glueline. If you thin a tablespoonful<br />

of the glue by adding a few drops of<br />

water, it will hold better, and the joint<br />

will be invisible. To clamp the joint, run<br />

a short piece of tape opposite the first<br />

one, then similarly tape every 2 in. or so<br />

across the joint, taking care to balance<br />

the tension on both sides of the panel as<br />

you go, else it will curl. You should not<br />

need ro weight the panel flat.<br />

Miters for box sides are best cut with<br />

the wood flat on the saw table, with the<br />

blade tilted to 450 and the gauge set at<br />

900 to the blade. I used to set the miter<br />

gauge with the aid of a carpenters'<br />

square, but a reader, Dustin Davis of<br />

Frostburg, Md., sent in a simple device<br />

(figure A) that makes the<br />

-<br />

job much<br />

easier. It's a shim of X-in. plastic that<br />

allows you to register the face of the<br />

miter gauge against the front edge of<br />

the saw table, which on most saws is accurately<br />

machined at 900 to the slots in<br />

o 2. 1. Fig. B: Checking 45° angles<br />

Miter-crosscut.<br />

Recut offcu� piece.<br />

,-..: : __.'<br />

4. Adjust cut. until miters fit straight. �-

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