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THE SEA ON THE TABLE<br />
Friuli Venezia Giulia’s coast is extraordinary. Whilst having<br />
a somewhat lim<strong>it</strong>ed extension, <strong>it</strong> possesses a variegated<br />
series of characteristics which make <strong>it</strong> practically<br />
unique. The common denominator nevertheless remains the<br />
sea, which has represented and continues to represent an<br />
enormous resource for the people here, from tourism to<br />
commerce, to fishing. The latter is particularly important in<br />
that <strong>it</strong> is linked to alimentation and therefore to the trad<strong>it</strong>ional<br />
cuisine. Marano, Trieste and Grado are the three most<br />
important fish markets. Here one can find all kinds of<br />
seafood, from shellfish, to molluscs, to valley fish and blue<br />
fish. This great variety is then transferred to the k<strong>it</strong>chen<br />
where tasty dishes from ancient recipes are prepared and<br />
which change from town to town. Here we should remember<br />
the different cooking methods for fish soups, such as the<br />
fabulous “boreto alla graesana”, or the fish soup “alla dalmata”<br />
and the “brodetti di guatti”. To review all of Friuli<br />
Venezia Giulia’s seafood cuisine would require many many<br />
pages. Let us leave <strong>it</strong> to the reader to imagine, or to try for<br />
himself, the art of the local chefs who are busy presenting<br />
their local special<strong>it</strong>ies, whether of eel, or squid or clams…<br />
MORJE NA MIZI<br />
Marano, Trst in Gradež so tri najpomebnejša tržišča<br />
rib v deželi. Tu najdemo najrazličnejše vrste<br />
morskih živali, od rakov (bogomoljke ali kanoče,<br />
kosmači <strong>it</strong>d.) do školjk (br<strong>it</strong>vice, kaparoclji, klapavice <strong>it</strong>d.),<br />
od pl<strong>it</strong>kovodnih (ciplji, orade, brancini) pa tja do plavih rib.<br />
Ta pisanost se prenaša tudi v kuhinjo, kjer se slastne jedi<br />
pripravljajo po starodavnih receptih, ki se razlikujejo med<br />
sabo od kraja do kraja. Nedvomno gre tu opozor<strong>it</strong>i na<br />
različne načine priprave brodetov, kakor so čudov<strong>it</strong>i »boreto<br />
alla graesana« (brodet na gradeški način) ali ribja juha po<br />
dalmatinsko in »brodetto di guatti«. Posebej nas nagovarja<br />
prvi od teh, ker predstavlja tipično gradeško kuhinjo, pa tudi<br />
zaradi svojih sestavin. Gre namreč za juho iz belih rib in/ali<br />
jegulj brez dodatka paradižnika, kar po mnenju izvedencev<br />
pomeni, da priprava tega brodeta sega v čas pred odkr<strong>it</strong>jem<br />
Amerike. Nastal je verjetno kot »revna« jed, ki so jo ribiči<br />
uživali, potem ko so prodali najboljše plene svojega ulova.<br />
V Gradežu gre pokus<strong>it</strong>i tudi brodet iz sip. V Maranu pa so<br />
pravi mojstri v pripravi »jegulje na žaru«, nekdaj tipične jedi<br />
na sveti večer: na režnje razrezano ribo z lovorjevimi listi<br />
nabodejo na akacijeve trse postarane v laguni ter jo dajo na<br />
žar, da se počasi speče. Okusna je nadalje tukajšnja rižota na<br />
maranski nacin (»risotto alla maranese«), katere glavne sestavine<br />
so lignji rezani na manjše kocke ter školjke, ki jih<br />
obilno odišavijo s sesekljanim peteršiljem. Da bi lahko<br />
podali zadovoljiv pregled nad vso morsko kuhinjo Furlanije<br />
Julijske Krajine, pa bi potrebovali še veliko strani. Naj si<br />
zato sam bralec predstavlja ali osebno presodi umetnost krajevnih<br />
kuharjev, ki se trudijo, da bi ponudili lastne special<strong>it</strong>ete,<br />
naj bodo jegulje, osliči, sipe ali barkovljanski sardoni...<br />
Nuove<br />
ricette<br />
ed antichi<br />
sapori<br />
APERTO<br />
TUTTI<br />
I GIORNI<br />
trattoria dal 1883<br />
Via Cividina 46 - MOLIN NUOVO (UD)<br />
Tel. 0432.42363 - Fax 0432.486463<br />
VIA PONTEBBANA 12<br />
COLLALTO DI TARCENTO (UD)<br />
TEL. 0432 792004 - 0432 792372<br />
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