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Herba Cana - Northeastern Illinois University

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© 2004 by CRC Press<br />

The Ethnobotany 499<br />

to either Phragmites or Arundo. ‘‘Reed’’ dates from ca.<br />

A.D. 725, being equated in a publication that year to<br />

harundo and canna. Although similar, harundo is not<br />

related to Latin hirundo, the swallow.<br />

Obviously, the concepts of reed, cane, bamboo,<br />

and pipe are all interrelated and applied to numerous<br />

plants. The first requirement is that the grasses are<br />

comparatively large and have either a woody stem or<br />

one that is somewhat lignified. The most useful part of<br />

the grasses is the stem, and that has served people<br />

throughout the world in many ways.<br />

Perhaps at least partly because Phragmites is most<br />

widely distributed, it is a well-known plant (e.g.,<br />

Howard and Powell 1963, Kenk 1963, Baranov 1967,<br />

Core 1967, Johnston 1970, Morton 1970, Turner and<br />

Bell 1971, de la Cruz 1978, Heiser 1978, Bailey and<br />

Danin 1981, Wolverton 1982, Cunningham and Milton<br />

1987, Timbrook 1990). The species grows from<br />

southern <strong>Cana</strong>da to the central United States, to<br />

California, Louisiana, Florida, the West Indies, and<br />

from Mexico to Chile and Argentina. Phragmites also<br />

grows widely in Europe, Asia, Africa, and Australia.<br />

The genus Phragmites was created by French botanist<br />

Michel Adanson who called it that because the grass<br />

grows along streams and ‘‘fences’’ them from nearby<br />

areas. These are the plants called kaneh or qáneh in<br />

Hebrew versions of the Bible (Zohary 1982), and<br />

ancient Egyptians used the culms as ‘‘quill’’ pens.<br />

Phragmites was well known to the Europeans when<br />

they first arrived in the Americas.<br />

In the New World, Europeans continued their old<br />

names for the plants. Dutch speakers use a word<br />

closest to English, when they say riet [rietje, rif]. The<br />

Germans call the reed Rohr. The French borrowed that<br />

term and say roseau (from Old French ros). Speakers<br />

of French also have a Latin derivative, chaume (from<br />

Latin calamus), but this is more often applied to straw<br />

as for a thatch roof. Romance languages continued<br />

using their Latin-based words, in Portuguese cana,<br />

Spanish caña, and Italian canna. Gaelic speakers called<br />

it saesgean, which also means an area dominated by<br />

moors or fens.<br />

Europeans in the Americas also compared Phragmites<br />

with the Old World sugarcane (Saccharum<br />

officinarum), saying caña de Indio (Panama, Puerto<br />

Rico) and soccos. They use that comparison because<br />

both plants provide sweets. Fernald et al. (1958)<br />

described the process of Phragmites extraction. Stems<br />

are gathered before flowering, dried in the sun, and<br />

ground or beaten into flour. The finer parts are sifted<br />

out and moistened to make a gummy mass that is<br />

roasted by a fire until it swells and browns slightly. The<br />

material is eaten like taffy or marshmallows.<br />

There is also a sweet edible gum exuded from<br />

damage caused by insects (the mealy plum aphid,<br />

Hyalopterus arundinis). Although Hodgson (2001)<br />

suggested that the use of the sweet extract from<br />

Phragmites called manna by the Europeans and<br />

cadece (juice of the reed) by the Cochimis was<br />

originally restricted to the California area, its use<br />

seems to have been more widespread. It may be the<br />

abundance of historical documents from the California<br />

region that gives the impression of a focus there.<br />

Many people, including Akimel and Tohono O’odham<br />

(Pima and Papago), Paiutes, Panamints, Yavapais,<br />

Cocopas, and others certainly showed the Europeans<br />

the sweet material. Europeans then left behind written<br />

accounts.<br />

Other native American names compare Phragmites<br />

with cane (Arundinaria gigantea) or maize (Zea<br />

mays). The Seminoles say koha:ha:ká (Creek) and<br />

oɬ á:ná:bí (Mikasuki), referring to Arundinaria, which<br />

they call by the simple terms kohá (Creek), kóha<br />

(Muskogee), or oɬ á:ni (Mikasuki). In Yucatán, the<br />

Maya say it is halal (cane-like corn stalks), or sakhalal<br />

[zak-halal, zachalal] (sak, white, halal).<br />

From British Columbia through the western United<br />

States to Panama, the young shoots are served as a<br />

potherb (Fernald et al. 1958, Duke 1968, 1972, Moser<br />

and Felger 1985, Hodgson 2001). In the 1870s the<br />

English botanist Mrs. Phoebe Lankester noted that<br />

the young shoots, especially where protected from<br />

light, ‘‘made an excellent pickle’’ (Fernald et al. 1958).<br />

As late as 1942, Mr. and Mrs. Whittrock commented<br />

that indigenous people in New Jersey boiled the<br />

rhizomes like potatoes, and in the early spring they<br />

cooked the young shoots like asparagus (Fernald et al.<br />

1958). The rhizomes may be harvested during any<br />

season and eaten raw or ground into flour.<br />

The seeds are hard to extract from the chaff, but<br />

they were cooked and eaten by people from New<br />

England to Oregon and south to the Sonoran Desert<br />

and probably elsewhere (Fernald et al. 1958, Mabberley<br />

1997, Hodgson 2001). Sometimes the chaff was<br />

allowed to remain on the seeds. Again in New Jersey,<br />

the Whittrocks recorded that local indigenous people<br />

did not remove the hull, but cooked the whole grain<br />

into a reddish gruel, colored by the hull. They added<br />

that it was ‘‘wholesome as a food, though not too<br />

appetizing in appearance’’ (Fernald et al. 1958).<br />

People from the Thompson of British Columbia<br />

and the Okanagon of the Washington and <strong>Cana</strong>da<br />

border to the Zapotecs of Oaxaca use Phragmites to<br />

prepare mats (Reko 1945, Mabberley 1997). Surely,<br />

people in the eastern parts of North America did the<br />

same although they made more use of cane (see<br />

Arundinaria). Some of the mats were used to dry<br />

food, while others were for sleeping and other<br />

purposes (Rea 1997, Moerman 1998).

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