TECHNICAL NOTES ON THE EEC-IV MCU - Auto diagnostics
TECHNICAL NOTES ON THE EEC-IV MCU - Auto diagnostics
TECHNICAL NOTES ON THE EEC-IV MCU - Auto diagnostics
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Eectch98-Part5.fm<br />
To achieve the EPROM files for this setup, burning 400 chips was not required to get<br />
it right, 400 chips were burned to get it PERFECT. More than likely 98% of the world<br />
would never notice the difference in the last 100+, and the first couple of 100 was<br />
figuring out how to do the above.<br />
PS When doing the above settle for the least amount of timing consistent with the<br />
best performance. Trying to run maximum timing results in hitting the knock sensor<br />
and having varying ETs. IF you run too much timing you may have to disable the knock<br />
sensor <strong>diagnostics</strong> because the car is so happy with yesterdays tuning, and today the<br />
ECM is using the OEM specs and can’t run the <strong>diagnostics</strong>, and the fault codes get<br />
pinged. (This setup is that way)<br />
Mild Performance Engines, Engine Swaps<br />
Now things take a step up, tools are still the same, but now it would be nice to<br />
have a scan tool, With probably a different cam the operating range of the sweet<br />
spot of the engine has changed, or the weight of the vehicle has. This weight thing<br />
is not to be taken lightly (HOHO HAHA), just had to sneak a little humor in. A<br />
light car and/or one with higher numerically final drive gears will want a lot more<br />
fuel earlier, or more timing taken out sooner. So now you’ll have to have some control<br />
of the timing. But still if you’re using a distributor, you can get by with<br />
just timing at cruise or WOT.<br />
If it’s a mild cam (and if you’re doing this for the first time I would highly suggest<br />
you stay conservative).<br />
Now use your scan tool and look for the magic 128, try adding/subtracting two to<br />
four degrees here and there do the 4d to get a feel for things, and do not use any<br />
WOT testing when going 4 at a time.<br />
Real Fire Breathing Hot Rods<br />
(Things that go lump, lump, rump, rump at idle, have non-lock up converters, and<br />
spin tires in any gear less than overdrive.) This will require modifying such parameters<br />
as Main Fuel Table; WOT enrichments; Main Spark Table; WOT Spark Adders; TPS<br />
Enrichments (sensitivity, duration and quantity); Enable WOT TPS percentage settings;<br />
Cooling fan operation; and Idle speed.<br />
Having the right tools is essential here or the engine will do a basic China Syndrome<br />
Routine meltdown -- and it doesn’t take long at WOT. A code scanner, a DVM,<br />
vacuum gauge, full time fuel pressure gauge (and isolator), and an air-fuel ratio<br />
meter (a DPM or an LED bargraph) are essential and it wouldn’t hurt to have an audible<br />
knock detector.<br />
Ok higher compression, no big shakes Small chamber/AL Heads generally make a difference,<br />
for either less total timing, at WOT<br />
Aluminum Heads need more timing during light throttle cruise, non-lockup converter,<br />
more initial enrichment (due to less drivetrain inertia).<br />
There are several other considerations for the non-lockup converter - including the<br />
extra wear-and-tear on the TCC linings. Since more fuel will be needed earlier, the<br />
% TPS WOT enable must be lowered.<br />
At this level, the instrumentation requires constant attention to prevent damage.<br />
With EFI and knock protection, there is usually protection from things going wrong<br />
but, when things do go wrong, you can’t forecast what the problem will be.<br />
Also, at this level, you might consider running a fuel separator, which is basically<br />
a large tank for the sediment to separate in, so there is no pressure drop due<br />
<strong>EEC</strong>-<strong>IV</strong> Technical Notes: Modifications/Upgrades65 last edited: 9/29/98