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chinain particular by the astonishing level of detail, since no two warriors are alike. Asa result, our enthusiasm was a little less when we visited the old bazaar in theso-called Muslim Quarter, where the spirit of old Chang'an could apparentlystill be felt, a testimony to the cultural melting pot of the once-great city. Allthat remains is some old architecture, and a few small shops, workshops andeating places. That cosmopolitan atmosphere probably hasn't been felt herefor a great many years. Quite the opposite: sullen bearded visages watched ussuspiciously and, with something approaching hostility, refused our request tobe allowed to enter the courtyard of the Great Mosque of Xi'an, one of the largestmosques in China. Yes, the influence and consequences of the 'war on terror'can be felt even here. A shame!On the third day the sun came out and, after a good three hours' drive acrossa flat landscape of tilled fields, we finally reached the foot of Hua Shan. Aheadof us was a wearisome three- to four-hour climb up surfaced paths carved intothe rock, but a plentiful and delicious early lunch had put paid to any desireto hike up there in the sultry heat of the afternoon. Especially since a comfortablecable car was waiting to take us to the summit… So we left footsloggingand similar delights to ardent believers and keen mountain climbers. Later, aswe crossed the mountain ridge from north to south, this proved to be a gooddecision, as we realised that would have been overtaken by darkness duringthe ascent. It was not until towards evening that we reached our modest andalmost empty accommodation by the cliff below Dong Feng, where, contentedand in blissful peace and silence, we slept soundly through the starry night.And into an even more beautiful morning! Although owing to the veil of cloud,the numerous multitude already gathered at Dong Feng before five o'clock inthe morning did not anticipate a perfect and magical sunrise.Hua Shan is one of the Wu Yue or five sacred mountains and is also knownas the 'West Great Mountain'. The paths on the mountain are of course wellmaintained, cut into the living rock, and suitably protected. Even so, they aremoderately fatiguing for the inexperienced mountaineer and in any case notrecommended – and this is meant as friendly advice – for anyone with eventhe slightest problems of balance or vertigo. The mountain faces are steep orindeed almost vertical, and in some places – which Vito and I preferred to avoid– the safety chains are not exactly reassuring. It is because of these paths thatHua Shan is considered one of the most dangerous mountains in the world forhikers. They make an incredible sight, all the paths criss-crossing this mountain,with its five connected peaks, linking temples which at the time of our visit wereeither closed or perhaps simply closed to foreigners. I don't know exactly why,but I noticed that the locals didn't seem to have these problems. Just anotherChinese peculiarity, I suppose! Be that as it may, despite the difficulties of access,almost all the needs of the increasingly demanding Chinese believers andnon-believers, who literally besiege it during the summer holidays, are met onthe mountain. Mind you, the whole of China is besieged at this time of year.By evening we were back in Xi'an, the City of Western Peace. Relaxed, content,our stomachs full, we were ready to continue our journey and the night train toLanzhou is the ideal place to get a good sleep and rest awhile.They make an incredible sight, all the paths criss-crossing this mountain,with its five connected peaks, linking temples which at the time of ourvisit were either closed or perhaps simply closed to foreigners.91