Old school New England 92 - Scanorama

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Mention “wine” and “It a ly” in the same sen tence and people’s thoughts usually turn to picturesque vineyards in Chianti or the gently rolling hills of the Langhe. Their olfactory memory kicks in and summons up the bouquet of a Super Tuscan or Barolo they lingered over in the cellar of some well-manicured estate or while dining at one of the fancier restaurants that dot Italy’s most popular wine regions. But if you’re looking for today’s hottest winemakers, don’t expect much in the way of postcard-perfect surroundings. Ask around at the local enoteca and the big news is what growers are getting up to on Mount Etna, a place that, coincidentally, happens to be the hottest in the country thanks to all that scalding magma beneath the surface. Here, lava is spat out of Europe’s tallest and most active volcano with enough force to put any self- <strong>New</strong> growth: Giuseppe Tasca has high hopes for the wines produced on Tasca d’Almerita’s Mount Etna Tascante estate shame. Amid the debris fields of basalt rock that litter its lower reaches, vintners fearlessly toil to turn this corner of Sicily into the Next Big Thing in fine wine. Of course, some might question the san ity of those who would build anything on the slopes of a volcano, but the si ren call of Bacchus is strong on Etna. In the past decade, it has lured wine lovers from as far away as Belgium. Like latter- day prospectors in search of a liquid mother lode, they are convinced that Etna’s mineral- rich soil possesses something special. For many, the goal is no less than to one day have their vintages mentioned in the same breath as the Lafites and Latours of the world. respecting sommelier and his spittoon to OUR JOURNEY UP ETNA TO MEET the personal ities who are shaping its viticultural future starts first with a minor detour to central Sicily to see Giuseppe Tasca, who along with his brother, Alberto, runs the Tasca d’Almerita winery. The family’s es - tate at Regaleali is a two hour drive from � � 70 DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012 SCANORAMA
Good karma: Monks accept offerings from local stores with a bow LE QUARTIER CHINOIS ‘ETNA FEELS LIKE THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE AND YET IT HAS THIS STRANGE APPEAL’ Main street, downtown Linguaglossa: Wine enthusiasts pound the black lava cobblestones on their way up Etna SCANORAMA DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012 71
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Old school New England 92 - Scanorama

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