Old school New England 92 - Scanorama

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. STORTINGSGT. 22, 0161 OSLO NORWAY TEL.:+47 22 00 76 90 www.juvelerlangaard.no To Be Worn with Joy and Passion Ring with one cushion-cut yellow beryl outlined with 10 orange sapphires, 19 rose-cut brown diamonds and 210 white brilliants set in black rhodinated 18-karat white gold. The pear-shaped kunzite in the second ring is surrounded by seven fancy-coloured sapphires, 468 white brilliants and two black brilliants set in black rhodinated 18-karat white gold. JUVELÉR LANGAARD - EXQUISITE JEWELERY JUVELÉR LANGAARD GUARANTEES THAT ALL OF THEIR DIAMONDS COMPLY WITH THE KIMBERLY AGREEMENT AND THE UNITED NATIONS RESOLUTION ON THE PURCHASE OF DIAMONDS FROM NON-CONFLICT AREAS. FOTO: KIM HOLTHE ILL: ISTOCKPHOTO
Midas touch: Marco de Grazia’s Tenuta delle Terre Nere today produces 160,000 bottles THE NEXT DAY WE SET OFF for Etna. From Catania, a winding road leads up the eastern approach. Off to our right the sea is bathed in a glorious Mediterranean light. In the fall sky above, almost 3,400 me ters up, we can make out the vol cano’s cone. From our vantage point, Etna looks far from menacing except for the thin plume of white smoke coming out of its crater. But the volcano is biding its time. This year there have already been 12 eruptions, the last one a month before our visit. While most eruptions don’t result in lava threatening surrounding towns, the tremors and ash clouds, which often end up grounding flights at the nearby airport, can be unsettling. Deep down Sicilians are a fatalistic lot. When it comes to Etna, which has been active for 700,000 years, and the threat of losing everything in a cataclysmic eruption, locals seem to take it in their stride. If it happens, it happens. So it’s no surprise then that more than a fifth of islanders decide to live in its shadow. Drawn by its fertile soil, people work the land to cultivate lemons, oranges, figs, olives, pistachios and, of course, grapes. THE DRIVE INTO WINE COUNTRY takes us along the SS120 road, first used during Ro - man times, to Linguaglossa, which serves as base camp for wine enthusiasts visiting Etna. The town has its fair share of aging palazzos still trying to look dignified un - der the harsh midday sun. Built over an old lava stream, its main street is lined with heavy, black lava cobblestones – an upside to the volcano’s fiery fury is that lo - cals can at least quarry rock from old lava spills to build anew. Nearly every street has a butcher shop advertising its wares, no doubt doing brisk business thanks to the need to supply choice meats to pair with the region’s hearty reds. We push on and pass a few sleepy villages before reaching our destination: Pas so pisciaro. Nestled at 600 meters, it sits in the heart of the Etna wine region, which is a couple of kilometers wide and 20km long. To an outsider the settlement feels like something out of a Sergio Leone spaghetti western. Weeds overrun a de - serted soccer field and stray dogs have free rein. Abandoned buildings still show signs of bomb damage from World War II when Allied troops passed through dur - ing the liberation of the island from Mus - so lini’s grip. On the main strip there’s lit - tle sign of life save for a lone barbershop and two poorly lit cafés patronized by gray-haired men who pass the time gossiping about the harvest. It has that air of SCANORAMA DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012 75 �
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