Fine selection of rare Argyle Pink Diamonds
the thin-bearded Cornelissen decided to switch from seller to producer in 2000 after a blind tasting of an Etna wine at a restaurant in Modica. “The first bottle was a bit harsh, very green in tannins, but it was eye-opening,” he recalls. After years of burgundy and Barolo, Cornelissen decided to go back to nature and take a radically different approach to expressing Etna’s terroir. He adds nothing to his wine and leaves it unfiltered. In place of oak barrels, he ages his wines in 400 liter terracotta jars that are buried in the volcanic soil inside his garage. “I wanted to imagine how people made wine in the past. Over 2,000 years ago they were making wine on Etna, and I don’t think the Romans would have put up with drinking vinegar.” Cornelissen even traveled to Georgia’s Ka k heti region to meet farmers who have long used amphorae in wine making. To - day, he makes 20,000 bottles of his allnatural wine and prides himself on his hands-on approach, which includes painting the labels on his prized Magma vin tage. “My philosophy is this: the person who makes the wine should be the one to prune the vine, because the vine is everything.” Agriculture on Etna can be hard going. Summers are hot and dry; winters can be cold and harsh. Grapes see big fluc tu a tions in daytime and nighttime temper atures, and October, traditionally the har vest month, gets the most rain, making growers’ lives a nightmare as they mull over the best time to pick. Rocky de bris left behind by recent lava spills restricts acreage, forcing some to plant vines on steep gradi ents. On sharp slopes make shift chairlifts are used to transport grapes. Workers, who pick by hand, communicate with their colleagues at the base of the hill by signaling with colored rags. When we visit Tasca d’Almerita’s Tascante estate on Etna, laborers are busy picking up rocks one by one to clear away a re cently planted field. The rocks are then re cycled to build storage huts and walls that line the label’s terraced vineyard. The scene recalls agriculture as practiced by the ancient Greeks, who settled on Etna 2,700 years ago. MARCO DE GRAZIA HAS JOINED the ranks of so phisticated winemakers eager to elevate Etna’s reputation in viticultural circles. A wine importer who moved to Etna in 2002, de Grazia has three decades of experience helping growers up and down Italy improve their own labels and prime them for export. But when he came across Hot rock: Etna smokes away in the distance the wines here, he finally got the urge to get his hands dirty. “Never in my wildest dreams did I think I’d be a grower but I see great potential,” says de Grazia as he tucks his pruning shears into his breast pocket. “It’s a cross between Burgundy and Piedmont. On my label I even call it the ‘Burgundy of the Mediterranean.’ ” Over dinner, we taste his 2008 Calderara Sottana. During the meal, the wine opens up and grows deeper and becomes silkier. While the bulk is nerello mascalese, he adds a touch of nerello cappuccio grape, which he describes as “fleshier, the merlot to mascalese’s cabernet.” To - day, Tenuta delle Terre Nere produces 160,000 bottles, and de Grazia has four growths of which he is very proud, including one made from vines that predate the phylloxera epidemic. Next to his winery in Randazzo, a town on the northwestern edge of Etna that has been lucky enough to escape the volcano’s wrath, we try a few more wines over lunch at the popular trattoria San Giorgio e il Drago housed, fittingly, in a former cantina. The Anzalone brothers, Pippo and Daniele, keep patrons’ glasses filled with local vintages and pair them with sumptuous plates of rabbit and polpette (meatballs) that are skillfully prepared by their mother, Signora Paola, 79. She rules with Uphill struggle: Nerello mascalese vines a firm hand from her perch in the kitchen, often telling off her sons if they are slow to pick up orders. It’s early afternoon and the rustic dining room is close to empty, but in future the untiring Paola may need to put in overtime. If Etna’s vintages keep racking up top scores, it won’t be long be - fore the food and wine crowd is clamoring for a table. � � GO TO ITALY SAS takes you to Rome, Milan, Venice and Bologna. Book your trip at www.flysas. com or use your EuroBonus points starting at 18,000 points one way SCANORAMA DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012 79 �
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