Old school New England 92 - Scanorama

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HAVING FUN ON ICE HUNTING FOR ICE IN NORWAY PLASMA 15 900 FILL DOWN THE MARMOT PROS ALBERT LEICHTFRIED AND BENEDIKT PURNER EXPLORE THE LAND OF THE ELKS TROLL WALL JACKET GORE-TEX® PRO SHELL ALPINIST PANT GORE-TEX® PRO SHELL CAPTURED WITHIN THE UNREAL ICE
The trigger for this ice climbing trip was an invitation from the Norwegian alpine club “Norsk Tindeklub” to climb in the Lofoten islands. The offer to look for new lines together with some of the current best alpinists, like Marko Prezelj, Colin Haley, Aljaz Andere and many more, while at the same time being served fresh fish daily was just too attractive and I couldn’t resist. FROSTY START IN LAVANGEN Before heading to the important meeting at Lofoten, we wanted to search for some ice lines on the mainland, eastward of Narvik. On our arrival polar Norway sent us a cold welcome with -20 °C temperatures. Very close to Lavangenfjord the existing ice climbing area of Spansdalen is located. With uncountable possibilities at all grades, if you’re lucky you might even meet some other climbers here: normally an absolute rarity in Northern Norway. On the first day we looked for a line not too far from the road, because our bodies still felt the exhaustion of the journey. As usual in Northern Norway, the seemingly short approach turned out to be farther than it looked, and due to exhausting trailbreaking it took much longer than we estimated. At 5 p.m. it was dark, so already on our first day we had to use our headtorches. FROZEN BØNES – ONE DAY IN THE STORM After the cold start the next day we looked for a route in the sun. The famous and beautiful shaped “Flågbekken” WI5/6 in Salangen was the best choice at a still freezing -16 °C. The day after, we wanted to take a step in the direction of Sweden. We arrived in Bønes at -20 °C and with 80 km/h winds – ice climbing seemed to be impossible. But the cold air flow was only at the bottom of the valley. Higher up at the start of the route it was calm at a mere -8 °C. We managed to climb the great route, 250 metres on demanding ice around WI6 X/R. When looking for a name for the route, “Frozen Bønes” was the only thing that came to my mind. Poor Hannes had to wait at the bottom of the valley with his telephoto lens in the storm and suffered frostbite on his nose. HAPPY END - SUMMIT OF HOVEN BIG DAYS IN SORDALEN The weather changed dramatically. The Gulf Stream had predominance now and the baltic -37 °C changed into +9 °C in the fjord on the next day. Now was the right time to start our activities in Sordalen. One perfect line after the other sprawl up to 700 metres over the steep granite face on the west slopes of the valley. On sight and totally clean we were able climb the routes “Stalker” 700m WI6/M7 which is completely vertical over 300 metres of its length, and “Remember Mi” WI7-/M8, the ultimate fragile formation. These were two absolute highlights in our ice climbing career. LOFOTEN Driving to Kabelvåg took us eight hours longer than usual because of a strong storm. With 200 km/h wind speeds the Lofoten Islands were separated from the outside world. Heavy rain over three days and temperatures far above 0 °C had a disastrous effect on the ice conditions on the islands that are well exposed to open sea. Nevertheless the climbers from all over the world were highly motivated. The strategy was quickly changed from ice climbing to winter climbing and we experienced some interesting days on the island in impressive surroundings. www.marmot.eu HANNES MAIR
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Old school New England 92 - Scanorama

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