Old school New England 92 - Scanorama

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Fields of gold: Tasca d’Almerita’s terraced vineyard on Etna being on the brink of extinction, something the town last risked in 1947 when Mungibeddu, the Sicilian name for Etna, blew her top and laid waste to vines and olive groves in the hills above. Good Catholics that they were, villagers sought di - vine intervention from the Virgin Mary, who came to their aid to halt the oncoming molten wave. In front of the railway station, which appears to have last been used in the 1950s when emigration took away a gen - eration of farmers, we meet Giuseppe Russo. “Welcome to the new frontier of wine,” Russo jokes. The bespectacled winemaker invites us to his home next door to the station’s empty waiting room and platform. Upstairs in his kitchen visitors from Switzerland are tasting his popular Feudo vintage. Recently named the country’s top vintner by Gambero Rosso, the classically trained pianist turned winemaker is still coming to terms with his newfound fame. “I’m in a bit of shock to be honest. My first vintage was only in 2005. But I was fortunate enough to have inherited land that has great potential for wine making.” Russo cracks open a bottle of San Lo - renzo, the growth of his tiny estate that comes from 100-year-old vines, made 150 meters up the hill using the alberello training system, which relies on low, free- ‘OVER 2,000 YEARS AGO THEY WERE MAKING WINE ON ETNA, AND I DON’T THINK THE ROMANS WOULD HAVE PUT UP WITH DRINKING VINEGAR ’ standing bushes. With nose to glass, the wine’s bouquet releases a wealth of aromas: cherries, violets, tobacco, a trace of oak. On the palate it has nebbiolo-like tannins but the nerello mascalese is less austere. From his balcony, Russo points to the railway that was built in 1895 to go around the mountain and connect Etna’s vineyards to the seaside town of Riposto. The port soon became an economic hub with a weekly publication dedicated to the wine trade and consulates from France to Sweden setting up office there. Grapes were Cantina: San Giorgio e il Drago in Randazzo is a must for Paola’s meatballs and potato croquettes, and a glass of wine dispatched from the docks to mainland Italy and abroad. In the 1<strong>92</strong>0s, there were even rumors that nerello had found its way into Bordeaux after a blight hit and producers in Burgundy are said to have relied on stocks during the 1960s. “Our grapes were used to better other wines that were able to make a name for themselves. Now at least we can call the shots,” Russo says. Our next stop takes us to Frank Cornelissen, a former wine trader from Ant werp who as a teenager spent his allowance collecting grand crus. Based in Solicchiata, SCANORAMA DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012 77 �
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Old school New England 92 - Scanorama

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