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Experience is a solid walking stick...

I don’t know where to start. I wish I had taken my wife. Who am I without my school certificates? These three remarks by refugees, scribbled into notebooks by The Niles correspondents, support the Sudanese proverb that ‘experience is a solid walking stick’. War, hunger and poverty have repeatedly forced both Sudanese and South Sudanese to flee their homes. Right now more than 4.5 million people are on the road in the two countries, like these passengers on a bus from Khartoum to Shendi. The fifth edition of The Niles documents their journeys, following their routes to neighbouring villages, fast-expanding cities or the other side of the globe, revealing diverse experiences with a recurring theme: When you leave home, the familiar is lost but the essential remains.

I don’t know where to start. I wish I had taken my wife. Who am I without my school certificates? These three remarks by refugees, scribbled into notebooks by The Niles correspondents, support the Sudanese proverb that ‘experience is a solid walking stick’. War, hunger and poverty have repeatedly forced both Sudanese and South Sudanese to flee their homes. Right now more than 4.5 million people are on the road in the two countries, like these passengers on a bus from Khartoum to Shendi. The fifth edition of The Niles documents their journeys, following their routes to neighbouring villages, fast-expanding cities or the other side of the globe, revealing diverse experiences with a recurring theme: When you leave home, the familiar is lost but the essential remains.

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The Niles 21<br />

Sudanese railways, once a vital<br />

link, are now in d<strong>is</strong>repair.<br />

> Departure: -<br />

> Arrival: -<br />

> D<strong>is</strong>tance: 5,978km<br />

A ticket<br />

to no-<br />

where<br />

The Sudanese railways, among the longest<br />

in Africa, once linked populations and ushered<br />

Sudan into the modern age. These days, many<br />

have been reduced to scrap metal.<br />

By Hadiya Elias<br />

In its heyday, Sudan’s railway measured about 4,588km, with four<br />

main train lines crossing the country. But a sharp decline began<br />

in the 1990s, and has continued ever since.<br />

Today, only the northern line to Atbarah carries passengers while the<br />

others are largely derelict, sometimes merely lines of scrap metal tossed<br />

on roadsides, and there <strong>is</strong> scant evidence of a return to the golden years.<br />

A legacy of Brit<strong>is</strong>h rule in Sudan, the railway cost around half a<br />

million Brit<strong>is</strong>h pounds (US$757,500), according to the Engl<strong>is</strong>h writer<br />

Mark Estrag in h<strong>is</strong> book ‘From Cape to Cairo’. Lord Kitchener,<br />

the Brit<strong>is</strong>h campaign’s leader, ordered the railways to be built mainly<br />

to “transport supplies and food to the army when it passes through<br />

Sudan”, Estrag wrote.<br />

The railways were built by Egyptian farmers, Sudanese people,<br />

and 200 pr<strong>is</strong>oners who were released especially to help the construction,<br />

as well as a number of soldiers. Key to the railway development<br />

was a Canadian engineer, Sir Édouard Percy Cranwill Girouard,<br />

who helped establ<strong>is</strong>h the Canadian Pacific Railways before joining<br />

the Brit<strong>is</strong>h army.<br />

Opened on the last day of the 19th century, the railway line<br />

initially spanned some 1,068km between Halfa in the north of Sudan<br />

and Khartoum-Bahri, a link used mainly for military purposes.<br />

The line was expanded to the east of the country in 1905 and was<br />

connected to Port Sudan on the Red Sea. In 1909 the railways were<br />

developed to reach towards Al Jazirah, linking to the largest agricultural<br />

project in the country, and thus boosting the economy. In 1912,<br />

tracks reached into the White Nile in western Sudan.<br />

By the time Sudan gained self-rule in 1954, its railway network<br />

had expanded to 3,104km, according to Mustafa Mohamed Khojali<br />

in an article written in Engl<strong>is</strong>h and publ<strong>is</strong>hed in Sudan Studies<br />

Magazine in July 2010. The post-independence national government<br />

increased th<strong>is</strong> network “to con<strong>solid</strong>ate national unity and strengthen<br />

economic development”, he wrote. It built three railways: a short<br />

one from Sennar to Damazin and two longer ones from Arabeida<br />

to Nyala in Darfur and from Babanousa to Wau in Ghazal Sea,<br />

reaching a total length of 4,588km.<br />

Journal<strong>is</strong>t Qurashi Awad pra<strong>is</strong>ed the railways for “connecting all<br />

parts of Sudan with each other”, underlining that they had a big impact<br />

on public life as “they developed the countryside and contributed<br />

to establ<strong>is</strong>hing cultural clubs, cooperatives, and schools”.<br />

Salah Khalifa, a Sudan Railway Cooperation (SRC) worker<br />

for more than 20 years, underlined the social impact of the railway.<br />

“Uniting Sudan and linking all the Sudanese tribes with their cultures”<br />

was the railways’ most important achievement, said Khalifa, who<br />

comes from the north. He added that the railways connected him<br />

to people from Babanousa, the east and the centre. “I was introduced<br />

to many cultures.”<br />

Trains offered citizens a cheap and secure means of transport, a<br />

step up from travelling by road on the back of lorries. In recent years,<br />

the roads have been paved and the railways have decayed so people<br />

tend to travel by cars and coaches.<br />

The railway’s decline follows years of negligence, poor management,<br />

and political problems.<br />

Its deterioration began in the late 1970s. Khalifa believes the<br />

government of Jaafar Nimeiry (1969-1985) was to blame for the<br />

downturn. “Workers’ strikes were a major concern for the government<br />

and, thus, the body they belonged to had to be fin<strong>is</strong>hed.”<br />

Successive governments followed the same strategy, he said,<br />

igniting an era of confrontation between politicians and railways<br />

workers’ unions. Thousands of experienced workers and engineers<br />

were sacked during th<strong>is</strong> time.<br />

Meanwhile, economic boycotts suddenly meant that spare parts<br />

were in short supply. The Sudan Railways Corporation was hurt by a<br />

lack of regular maintenance and the US sanctions, as more than 80<br />

percent of the railway’s machines were made in America.<br />

The restoration of the railway <strong>is</strong> often d<strong>is</strong>cussed by the government<br />

and the Sudan Railways Corporation but their words have yet<br />

to be turned into action. Recent attempts include the government’s<br />

plan to improve the link between Khartoum and the neighbouring<br />

states, a scheme unveiled by officials in October. But as yet no details<br />

have been provided.<br />

Abdullah Ali Masar, chairman of the Transport Committee in the<br />

National Council has said that projects to develop the transport sector<br />

will soon reach neighbouring countries with a plan “to establ<strong>is</strong>h two<br />

railway lines to Ethiopia and Chad”.<br />

Many view the renewal of the Sudanese railways as a key priority<br />

for the nation. “Rebuilding the Sudanese railways <strong>is</strong> connected to<br />

rebuilding Sudan as a country,” journal<strong>is</strong>t Awad said.<br />

He added that reviving the railways will require “developing technical<br />

education, training staff in special<strong>is</strong>ed schools and, most important of<br />

all, changing the country’s external policies through cooperating with<br />

countries in the field of developing railways to import spare parts”.<br />

Khalifa agreed with him, saying the network needs “full maintenance<br />

of trains and the neglected railways...Experts, engineers, and<br />

fast trains should be imported.”<br />

In light of Sudan’s deep economic mala<strong>is</strong>e and a lack of political<br />

action, however, the railways look set to stand derelict for some time.<br />

5500km<br />

5600<br />

5700<br />

5800<br />

5978<br />

km<br />

5900<br />

6000<br />

theniles_enar_20150327.indd 21<br />

2015/3/31 1:50 PM

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