15.02.2018 Views

A fool will not even find water in the Nile!

The Sudanese proverb raises the question: Does the fool drown in his search for water or is he saved by it? And who is, in fact, this fool? Given the wasteful and unfair dealings of mankind with this dwindling resource – aren’t we all? While doing research on water, The Niles correspondents in South Sudan and Sudan met fishermen who deal carefully with the water that nourishes them and business people who exploit the resource without restraint. They report on conflicts around water but also on exemplary projects where water is shared peacefully. In short, the fool is still swimming, but for how long?

The Sudanese proverb raises the question: Does the fool drown in his search for water or is he saved by it? And who is, in fact, this fool? Given the wasteful and unfair dealings of mankind with this dwindling resource – aren’t we all? While doing research on water, The Niles correspondents in South Sudan and Sudan met fishermen who deal carefully with the water that nourishes them and business people who exploit the resource without restraint. They report on conflicts around water but also on exemplary projects where water is shared peacefully. In short, the fool is still swimming, but for how long?

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.

26 The <strong>Nile</strong>s<br />

Launch<strong>in</strong>g<br />

<strong>the</strong> Oky<br />

African<br />

Boat Cruise<br />

Party<br />

Amid boom<strong>in</strong>g African music and ample local<br />

food, passengers aboard <strong>the</strong> debut <strong>Nile</strong> cruise<br />

of <strong>the</strong> Queen Juba 001 get a rare glimpse of <strong>the</strong><br />

nature surround<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> South Sudanese capital.<br />

Akim Mugisa & Agama Martha | Juba<br />

kayak<strong>in</strong>g, fish<strong>in</strong>g competitions and camp<strong>in</strong>g sites<br />

among o<strong>the</strong>r leisure pursuits.<br />

A forest of mango trees hug <strong>the</strong> east and west<br />

banks of <strong>the</strong> river and local ethnic groups appear from<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir Tukuls (mud and bamboo houses) and wave<br />

to <strong>the</strong> passengers. Fish<strong>in</strong>g and transport canoes make<br />

way for <strong>the</strong> large cruise boat. An onboard disc jockey<br />

plays loud African beats and <strong>the</strong> sounds of Emmanuel<br />

Kembe’s Let us celebrate and Bob Marley’s One Love<br />

echo across <strong>the</strong> <strong>water</strong>.<br />

“We are head<strong>in</strong>g to Malakal,” one passenger<br />

jokes to a group of onlookers, referr<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong> capital<br />

of Upper-<strong>Nile</strong> State, which lies more than 500<br />

kilometres away.<br />

South Sudanese artists <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g Yuppy Jay<br />

of Jay family, Meen Meen of <strong>the</strong> Coozos Clan,<br />

comedians and music promoters were among<br />

<strong>the</strong> passengers of <strong>the</strong> first boat cruise party. Tickets<br />

cost 300 South Sudanese Pounds (about US$ 95)<br />

for <strong>the</strong> three-hour voyage.<br />

Guests on <strong>the</strong> front deck challenge “driver”<br />

Kitonyi to crash <strong>the</strong> boat <strong>in</strong>to a lively, six-feet long,<br />

yellow-and-green snake which is swimm<strong>in</strong>g just<br />

metres ahead of <strong>the</strong> boat, but it struggles out of harms<br />

way just <strong>in</strong> time.<br />

A light-hearted argument ensues as to whe<strong>the</strong>r<br />

<strong>the</strong> man at <strong>the</strong> wheel is called a driver, until one of <strong>the</strong><br />

passengers expla<strong>in</strong>s that Kitonyi is a capta<strong>in</strong>, accord<strong>in</strong>g<br />

to nautical term<strong>in</strong>ology.<br />

“A couple of <strong>water</strong><br />

ski boats circle<br />

<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> distance.”<br />

I<br />

t is just after three on a sunny Saturday<br />

afternoon <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> South Sudanese capital<br />

Juba. Men and women, many wear<strong>in</strong>g bright orange<br />

life jackets over <strong>the</strong>ir African attire, head for <strong>the</strong><br />

pier of <strong>the</strong> Queen Juba 001 for <strong>the</strong> first ever Oky<br />

African Boat Cruise Party.<br />

Passengers pile aboard <strong>the</strong> double-decker white<br />

boat and tw<strong>in</strong> 320-horse-power eng<strong>in</strong>es roar to<br />

general excitement. High-fives clash <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> air and<br />

people embrace as <strong>the</strong> boat’s Assistant Capta<strong>in</strong><br />

Aaron Kitonyi gently steers <strong>the</strong> Queen Juba 001<br />

away from <strong>the</strong> platform.<br />

The deck is abuzz with expectations of see<strong>in</strong>g<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>digenous people of <strong>the</strong> River <strong>Nile</strong> banks and<br />

<strong>the</strong> famous Gondokoro Island, a historic site that<br />

once served as an Egyptian garrison and <strong>the</strong> base<br />

of British explorer Sir Samuel Baker dur<strong>in</strong>g his<br />

1870s expedition.<br />

The <strong>Nile</strong>, which at some 6,853 kilometres is<br />

<strong>the</strong> world’s longest river, snakes through South<br />

Sudan on its way through Sudan and Egypt to<br />

<strong>the</strong> Mediterranean Sea, offers spectacular views<br />

of unspoiled nature.<br />

“Bob Marley’s ‘One<br />

Love’ echoes across<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>Nile</strong>.”<br />

In South Sudan, an area which is roughly <strong>the</strong><br />

size of France and Germany comb<strong>in</strong>ed, <strong>the</strong> river<br />

is used for transport, fish<strong>in</strong>g and its <strong>water</strong> is taken<br />

by many households and for agriculture. However,<br />

until now, it has rema<strong>in</strong>ed an untapped resource<br />

for leisure activities. This contrasts with neighbour<strong>in</strong>g<br />

Uganda, where <strong>in</strong> areas like J<strong>in</strong>ja, Murchison<br />

Falls National park and Panyimur, offer raft<strong>in</strong>g,<br />

Juba goes Miami: Fun on<br />

Queen Juba, a double-decker<br />

boat with tw<strong>in</strong><br />

320-horse-power eng<strong>in</strong>es.<br />

Photos: Akim Mugisa<br />

W<strong>in</strong>e, spirits and bottles of beer are served alongside<br />

local food, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g home-made samosas and<br />

chicken thighs. Guests dig <strong>the</strong>ir spoons <strong>in</strong>to small<br />

ceramic bowls of Gi<strong>the</strong>ri, a traditional Kenyan dish<br />

made of boiled maize gra<strong>in</strong>s and beans.<br />

A couple of <strong>water</strong>-ski boats circle <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> distance,<br />

prompt<strong>in</strong>g a group of passengers to shout “Al-Shabaab,<br />

Al-Shabaab”, <strong>in</strong> reference to <strong>the</strong> <strong>not</strong>orious Somali<br />

pirates on <strong>the</strong> Indian Ocean. Smart phones click and<br />

flash as revellers snap selfies <strong>in</strong> various poses.<br />

One of <strong>the</strong> bus<strong>in</strong>ess partners beh<strong>in</strong>d <strong>the</strong> party<br />

cruise, Wani Michael, expla<strong>in</strong>s <strong>the</strong> trip was designed<br />

to celebrate African diversity and unity. “We need<br />

to rejuvenate our lost African cultures. Few from <strong>the</strong><br />

younger generation can s<strong>in</strong>g African songs, <strong>the</strong>y don’t<br />

know our cultures <strong>in</strong> dress<strong>in</strong>g and feed<strong>in</strong>g because<br />

<strong>the</strong> western culture is kill<strong>in</strong>g ours,” he says.<br />

He said <strong>the</strong>y created <strong>the</strong> river trip to enable<br />

expatriates, corporate people and socialites to travel<br />

along <strong>the</strong> mighty <strong>water</strong> body.<br />

Data Gordon Emmanuel, a worker at <strong>the</strong> Za<strong>in</strong><br />

telecommunications network, praises <strong>the</strong> trip as a<br />

welcome break from <strong>the</strong> bustle of Juba city: “I was<br />

happy to see <strong>the</strong> natural green scenery along <strong>the</strong> <strong>Nile</strong>.”<br />

Down <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> cab<strong>in</strong>, five-year old Emily wears<br />

a small safety vest and is accompanied by her fa<strong>the</strong>r,<br />

an executive member of <strong>the</strong> South Sudan Artists<br />

Association. “It is good,” she says. “It feels good<br />

to be <strong>in</strong> this boat on <strong>the</strong> <strong>water</strong>.”<br />

At half past s<strong>even</strong> <strong>the</strong> sun starts to set on <strong>the</strong> river<br />

and Queen Juba 001 docks at <strong>the</strong> pier and its relaxed<br />

and upbeat passengers disembark. W<strong>in</strong>nie Godi,<br />

from W<strong>in</strong>nyG fashions and co-organiser of <strong>the</strong> cruise,<br />

reflects that <strong>the</strong> <strong>Nile</strong> trip revealed natural beauty to<br />

young people, and could encourage peace by provid<strong>in</strong>g<br />

work for <strong>the</strong> unemployed and disenchanted.<br />

By <strong>in</strong>troduc<strong>in</strong>g and promot<strong>in</strong>g leisure activities,<br />

beaches and <strong>water</strong> games along <strong>the</strong> world famous<br />

<strong>water</strong> way, South Sudan could generate r<strong>even</strong>ue for<br />

government, create employment and also open up<br />

markets for locally produced goods such as handcrafts,<br />

she says.<br />

“Youths can have fun and avoid engag<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> war<br />

here. They learn <strong>the</strong>y have a life to enjoy and <strong>the</strong>y can<br />

earn a liv<strong>in</strong>g from work<strong>in</strong>g as guides to visitors or<br />

work<strong>in</strong>g on cruise boats… No <strong>water</strong>, no peace. This<br />

river unites us all.”<br />

<strong>the</strong>niles6_20151123.<strong>in</strong>dd 26<br />

2015/11/23 2:13 PM

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!