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A fool will not even find water in the Nile!

The Sudanese proverb raises the question: Does the fool drown in his search for water or is he saved by it? And who is, in fact, this fool? Given the wasteful and unfair dealings of mankind with this dwindling resource – aren’t we all? While doing research on water, The Niles correspondents in South Sudan and Sudan met fishermen who deal carefully with the water that nourishes them and business people who exploit the resource without restraint. They report on conflicts around water but also on exemplary projects where water is shared peacefully. In short, the fool is still swimming, but for how long?

The Sudanese proverb raises the question: Does the fool drown in his search for water or is he saved by it? And who is, in fact, this fool? Given the wasteful and unfair dealings of mankind with this dwindling resource – aren’t we all? While doing research on water, The Niles correspondents in South Sudan and Sudan met fishermen who deal carefully with the water that nourishes them and business people who exploit the resource without restraint. They report on conflicts around water but also on exemplary projects where water is shared peacefully. In short, the fool is still swimming, but for how long?

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81m 3<br />

Renewable fresh<strong>water</strong> resources per capita*<br />

Sudan:<br />

* year 2013, source: The World Bank<br />

Nubian<br />

holy <strong>water</strong><br />

From baptisms to marriages, ritual cleans<strong>in</strong>g<br />

with <strong>Nile</strong> <strong>water</strong> has a long stand<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> Nubian<br />

culture.<br />

Samia Ibrahim | Khartoum<br />

P<br />

eople of <strong>the</strong> Nubian regions, north<br />

of Sudan, sanctify <strong>the</strong> <strong>Nile</strong> and consider<br />

it <strong>the</strong> giver of life, fertility, happ<strong>in</strong>ess and<br />

prosperity. S<strong>in</strong>ce <strong>the</strong> birth of <strong>the</strong> early Sudanese<br />

civilisations, such as <strong>the</strong> Kerma culture, (which<br />

began around 3000 BC), man has found that<br />

his life with<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>se communities is l<strong>in</strong>ked<br />

to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Nile</strong>. Dependence on this great river<br />

is related to a number of customs, traditions<br />

and rituals associated with <strong>the</strong> various stages<br />

of life itself.<br />

Shafouqa Abdul Rahman Dahab, an archeologist<br />

<strong>in</strong>terested <strong>in</strong> Nubian heritage, said <strong>the</strong><br />

rituals practiced by her family <strong>in</strong> Wadi Halfa<br />

city <strong>in</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn Sudan are concerned with<br />

marriage, birth and circumcision. “Two days<br />

ahead of <strong>the</strong> marriage ceremony, <strong>the</strong> bride goes<br />

to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Nile</strong> to wash her face, while <strong>the</strong> bridegroom<br />

goes <strong>the</strong>re on his wedd<strong>in</strong>g day to ba<strong>the</strong>.<br />

Afterwards, <strong>the</strong> actual wedd<strong>in</strong>g preparations<br />

are arranged,” she expla<strong>in</strong>ed and added that<br />

on <strong>the</strong> s<strong>even</strong>th day after <strong>the</strong> wedd<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>the</strong> bride<br />

and bridegroom walk to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Nile</strong> to wash <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

face and feet with its <strong>water</strong>.<br />

Sacraments and rites of passage<br />

In <strong>the</strong> Sukut and Mahas districts and <strong>in</strong> some<br />

areas near Dongola, mo<strong>the</strong>rs take <strong>the</strong>ir newborns<br />

to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Nile</strong> at sunset and wash <strong>the</strong>ir faces as well<br />

as <strong>the</strong> faces of <strong>the</strong>ir newborn babies with <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Nile</strong>’s <strong>water</strong>. They fill s<strong>even</strong> conta<strong>in</strong>ers with <strong>Nile</strong><br />

<strong>water</strong> to irrigate s<strong>even</strong> small palm trees to <strong>in</strong>voke<br />

bounty and happ<strong>in</strong>ess. All babies’ items used<br />

to clean <strong>the</strong>ir newborns are thrown to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Nile</strong>.<br />

A quantity of cooked chickpeas is prepared some<br />

of which are eaten by <strong>the</strong> riverside while <strong>the</strong><br />

rema<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g quantity is thrown along with <strong>the</strong><br />

baby’s items.<br />

In certa<strong>in</strong> areas of <strong>the</strong> <strong>Nile</strong> between Wadi<br />

Halfa and Khartoum, mo<strong>the</strong>rs have to stay<br />

<strong>in</strong>doors for 40 days after <strong>the</strong>ir delivery. On<br />

<strong>the</strong> 40th day, <strong>the</strong> mo<strong>the</strong>r takes her newborn<br />

to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Nile</strong> and washes <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>fant <strong>in</strong> accordance<br />

with <strong>the</strong> adopted ritual. Local <strong>in</strong>habitants <strong>in</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> Nubian regions believe that women who<br />

disregard this ritual <strong>will</strong> be afflicted with all<br />

types of evil. Women carry<strong>in</strong>g palm branches<br />

and s<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g folk songs accompany <strong>the</strong> mo<strong>the</strong>rs.<br />

The newborns’ mo<strong>the</strong>rs wash <strong>the</strong>ir hands,<br />

feet and face as well <strong>the</strong> face and feet of <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

babies. Meanwhile, <strong>the</strong> accompany<strong>in</strong>g women<br />

ululate <strong>in</strong> joy after <strong>the</strong> rituals are completed.<br />

When a boy is circumcised, he is taken to <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Nile</strong> on <strong>the</strong> same day to wash his face with <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Nile</strong>’s <strong>water</strong>.<br />

This ritual is similar to baptism performed<br />

by Christians for <strong>the</strong>ir newborn children.<br />

Accord<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong> book entitled ‘Discovery<br />

of Ancient Nuba History’ by Giovanni Fant<strong>in</strong>i,<br />

<strong>the</strong>se rituals still exist <strong>in</strong> Nuba areas <strong>in</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn<br />

Sudan and Darfur <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> west. These rituals<br />

testify to Nubians’ Christian past.<br />

The priest of Two Martyrs Church, fa<strong>the</strong>r<br />

Velothaos Faraj said a number of customs <strong>in</strong><br />

Nuba districts are regarded as remnants of<br />

Christianity which existed <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Nubian regions<br />

between <strong>the</strong> sixth and <strong>the</strong> sixteenth centuries.<br />

These customs cont<strong>in</strong>ued after <strong>the</strong> advent of<br />

Islam, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g those that were associated with<br />

<strong>the</strong> river <strong>Nile</strong>. “The <strong>Nile</strong> is a sacred river to all<br />

Nuba population and <strong>the</strong>y turn to it for renewed<br />

life,” he added.<br />

Faraj also said <strong>the</strong>re are customs l<strong>in</strong>ked<br />

to <strong>the</strong> start of married life where <strong>the</strong> bride’s<br />

procession goes to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Nile</strong> to take some <strong>water</strong><br />

from <strong>the</strong> blessed river. The groom as well visits<br />

<strong>the</strong> river and <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong> marriage procedures<br />

are consummated.<br />

Manal Saleh, a mo<strong>the</strong>r of two, said she<br />

followed <strong>the</strong>se rituals when she gave birth to<br />

her children. “Despite <strong>the</strong> changes of lifestyles<br />

at present, <strong>the</strong>se rituals are still followed <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Nubian villages and rural areas located north<br />

and east of Sudan.”<br />

When <strong>the</strong><br />

well runs dry<br />

They can see <strong>the</strong> <strong>water</strong> source and <strong>the</strong>y <strong>even</strong><br />

pay <strong>the</strong>ir <strong>water</strong> bills, but residents of Nyala<br />

are thirsty.<br />

Abdelrahman Ibrahim | Nyala<br />

D<br />

ecades of conflict have left vital <strong>in</strong>frastructure<br />

<strong>in</strong> short supply and residents<br />

of Nyala, South Darfur State, frequently <strong>in</strong><br />

search of <strong>water</strong>. Every year <strong>the</strong> crisis peaks dur<strong>in</strong>g<br />

<strong>the</strong> four-month-long summer – <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn<br />

districts are hit hardest.<br />

Most of Nyala’s houses lack <strong>water</strong> ma<strong>in</strong>s,<br />

a fact <strong>the</strong> former Governor of South Darfur<br />

Adam Mahmoud Jar El-Nabi blames on absent<br />

pipes. “The network was subject to some<br />

renovation and <strong>the</strong> first phase related to street<br />

pipes was completed. However, <strong>the</strong> second<br />

phase of runn<strong>in</strong>g pipes <strong>in</strong>side <strong>the</strong> houses has yet<br />

to be completed,” he said dur<strong>in</strong>g a press<br />

conference this past June.<br />

Water carried on carriages and tankers tour<br />

Nyala neighbourhoods to sell <strong>water</strong> barrels to <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>in</strong>habitants of those areas who don’t have access<br />

to a public <strong>water</strong> supply. The price of a barrel of<br />

<strong>water</strong> costs SDG 25 (about US$ 4). Most Nyala<br />

city residents do <strong>not</strong> receive a monthly salary and<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir <strong>in</strong>comes vary from one month to <strong>the</strong> next,<br />

mak<strong>in</strong>g this a steep sum to pay.<br />

Even for employees whose monthly <strong>in</strong>comes<br />

range between SDG 700 and 900 (nearly<br />

US$ 116 and 150), it is challeng<strong>in</strong>g to cover<br />

<strong>the</strong> monthly <strong>water</strong> costs of large families<br />

– somewhere between US$ 124 and 240 per<br />

month. Salaried family members often split<br />

<strong>the</strong> bill. “Dr<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g <strong>water</strong> has become pricier<br />

than cook<strong>in</strong>g gas,” said Mohammed Abdallah,<br />

from Al-Matar District.<br />

And <strong>even</strong> those families liv<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> neighbourhoods<br />

with public <strong>water</strong> supply pipes, regular<br />

<strong>water</strong> shortages have prompted <strong>the</strong>m to dig wells<br />

and use <strong>the</strong> autumn <strong>water</strong> streams.<br />

T<br />

Confluence of <strong>the</strong> White <strong>Nile</strong> and <strong>the</strong><br />

Blue <strong>Nile</strong>, near Khartoum<br />

Photo: De Agost<strong>in</strong>i / N. Cirani,<br />

gettyimages<br />

<strong>the</strong>niles6_20151123.<strong>in</strong>dd 4<br />

2015/11/23 2:13 PM

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