Issue No. 25

Back in the hotel restaurant, feeling
reassured our hire car wouldn’t be used to
display cabbages, the server tempted us to a
Pousse Rapière cocktail – my first
introduction to Armagnac, the famous
liqueur of Gascony. One part Armagnac à
l’Orange to 6 parts sparkling wine: it’s
heaven in a glass and so moreish I feel bad
telling you about it. The food at the
restaurant is superb (chef Thierry Lair is
superb), if I lived in this town, you wouldn’t
be able to keep me out of here!
the most French, authentic and delicious
market you can ever imagine. Stall after stall
of local produce, odd shaped vegetables,
fresh baked bread, artisanal beers, cheeses
and… Pastis Gascon, an apple tart which
makes your taste buds sing. Don’t take my
word for it, there’s a recipe on page 118.
Seriously, seriously sensational.
Early next morning after a good night's sleep
we wandered a few minutes out of the town
to discover lakes right on the doorstep that
were teeming with birds. As the sun broke
through the early morning mist and a
symphony of bird song filled the air, it felt
like the land that time forgot.
The old pilgrim route from Bordeaux to
Jerusalem and the river Save wander
through this 13th century bastide. There’s a
classic church which has a 15th century
clocktower and the remains of two arcaded
markets. The market at L’Isle Jordain is like