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Turnbull prefers the »gigas«, which is also known as the
Pacific oyster. »The demand is growing so fast that we can
only just cope,« he says. Wearing waders, he stands in the
shallow water next to his tractor and the oyster grids. Then he
suddenly picks a handful of oysters from the sacks, puts them
on the back of the tractor and pulls out a knife.
We sip and suck like mad, standing in wade trousers not
far from our yacht among hundreds and thousands of oysters.
They taste fantastic. Firm and tender at the same time, salty,
but not too much. We have no lemon or anything else – all we
taste is the plain, living oyster. It couldn’t be fresher. We are
talking about centimetres. Stretch out your hand, take one,
open, eat. A few still go... and how well they go down!
A mODERATE BREEZE FROm THE EAST, A wHITE
AND BLUE SKY – SCOTLAND CAN REALLY HAVE A
SUmmER. We sail 20 miles through the Passage of Tiree to
Coll. The islands lie on the horizon like swollen, sleeping tummies,
as finely curved lines. Then, just before the entrance to
Loch Eatherna, we see dozens of pointed fins cutting through
Unter der Oberfläche des Loch Spelve wachsen Millionen von Muscheln //
Millions of mussels grow underneath the surface of Loch Spelve
Austernfarmer Nick
Turnbull von der Isle of
Mull // Nick Turnbull,
an oyster farmer on the
Isle of Mull
the surface. These are giant sharks that filter plankton into
their mouths – harmless animals that are, however, up to ten
metres long. We sail past very close and are impressed by their
giant, gaping mouths.
An hour later, we have moored the boat, taken the dinghy
ashore and are sitting in the sun in front of Coll Hotel. This
small hotel even has a helicopter pad, just in case a guest is in
a real hurry to come to the table. Then the boss arrives. She is
carrying a mighty silver tray on which the entire range of local
seafood is presented.
We stare at a giant lobster that is pink, orange and pale
red. It is flanked by spider crabs, mudcrabs, cockles and razor
clams. The thin legs of two velvet crabs dangle from the platter,
and among this wonderful array are eight piles of pectin
scallops. »Yes, of course, everything is caught locally,« she
says. Silly question. »Yesterday, it was all still alive and kicking
in the water. We have our own boats, which go just around
the corner. We only catch what we need.«
read more
fruit of the sea in
western scotLand
Some of the best places to find fresh, local
Seafood are located around the island of Mull.
The stall of John Ogden is in Oban, in the old
city centre by the ferry pier. To be recommended
are the Café Fish in Tobermory and the Whitehouse
Restaurant in Loch Aline, which even has
a mention in the Michelin Guide. The food in
The Coll Hotel, on the island of Coll, is also very
good; amongst ther things gigantic platters of
seafood are served here. Fantastic oysters can be
had in the northermost part of Loch Fyne, at the
Loch Fyne Oyster Farm with its own restaurant
and deli shop. If you like mussels, you should anchor
in Loch Spelve, in the mussel farm of Doug
Wilson which also has free moorings.
www.thecafefish.com
www.thewhitehouserestaurant.co.uk
www.collhotel.com
inverlussa.com/musselfarm.asp
www.lochfyne.com