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We - KappAhl

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STEP 2: PURCHASING<br />

“RIGHT SALEABILITY”<br />

– CENTRAL FOR<br />

PURCHASING<br />

Buyers, just like <strong>KappAhl</strong>’s designers, have a great responsibility<br />

for ensuring that what ends up on the mannequins, hangers and<br />

shelves in the stores has the right saleability.<br />

The buyers are those who ultimately determine which garments<br />

are to be manufactured, in what volumes and when. The<br />

buyers also set the price of each individual product. <strong>We</strong> are<br />

known to be good at this, which is shown not least in our low<br />

inventory levels and high margins for the year.<br />

SEVEN PURCHASING OFFICES IN THE WORLD Negotiating<br />

purchase prices is also the job of the buyer. This is done with<br />

the help of purchasing offices in Bangladesh, India, China (2),<br />

Lithuania, Turkey and Ukraine. The buyers can also make<br />

changes in the design of certain garments, for example to<br />

facilitate manufacture.<br />

The buyers are responsible for gross profit on sales of the<br />

garments purchased. They follow up every individual garment<br />

from introductory design and production right to the store.<br />

They are also responsible for deciding whether, and in that case<br />

when, the price of a product must be reduced.<br />

SAFE FASHION – NATURALLY <strong>KappAhl</strong>’s clothes must be safe<br />

from the health and environment perspective, and free of harmful<br />

substances. To contribute to cleaner production <strong>KappAhl</strong><br />

requires that suppliers follow current environmental laws and<br />

that they also meet <strong>KappAhl</strong>’s own requirements, which are<br />

tougher than Nordic legislation. The company also closely<br />

follows research and development in the chemicals area. You<br />

can read more about this on pages 18–20.<br />

STEP 3: MANUFACTURE<br />

VALUE CHAIN<br />

SECURE PRODUCTION<br />

MODEL<br />

All our production is with external companies. This means that<br />

we are not dependent on any single supplier. It gives great flexibility,<br />

since we can easily change to another supplier of the same<br />

kind, but better when necessary.<br />

In addition the arrangement means that we are not tying up a<br />

lot of capital in factories. <strong>We</strong> would rather invest the money in<br />

new stores so that we can reach more customers. This way of<br />

doing things also gives us the freedom to change production<br />

methods if our garments should so require.<br />

This would be difficult if we ourselves had invested heavily in<br />

machinery that is restricted to one type of production, requiring<br />

a certain level of capacity utilisation to be profitable.<br />

LARGE NUMBER OF SUPPLIERS TO CHOOSE FROM <strong>We</strong> buy<br />

in from over 200 suppliers. About 30 producers supply about 60<br />

per cent of the total volume. Most purchases are made in Asia.<br />

Almost 70 per cent of the garments come from there. The rest is<br />

bought in Europe. Purchases and deliveries are co-ordinated by<br />

<strong>KappAhl</strong>, which cooperates closely with the purchasing offices<br />

throughout Asia and Europe. The purchasing offices follow up<br />

quality, price and code of conduct.<br />

PARTICULAR ABOUT QUALITY <strong>We</strong> attach great importance to<br />

quality assurance, using clear directives and frequent spot checks<br />

at all stages of the production process. It’s worth it. The percentage<br />

of garments where faults have arisen in production is now<br />

negligible, not even one per thousand.<br />

The purchasing offices also check that the suppliers comply<br />

with <strong>KappAhl</strong>’s code of conduct and follow up their environmental<br />

work. They also look for new suppliers, monitor timely<br />

and correct deliveries of goods and handle export administration.<br />

In other words, they are <strong>KappAhl</strong>’s extended arm in important<br />

countries of purchase.<br />

2008/2009 Kappahl 23

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