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Numerical modeling of waves for a tsunami early warning system

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Chapter 2<br />

Tsunami wave modelling<br />

In fluid mechanics the fluid is considered as a continuum; this allows all fluid<br />

properties to be described by mathematical functions that are continuous and<br />

differentiable. Thus modelling the fluids kinematics and dynamics, means<br />

applying the laws <strong>of</strong> conservation <strong>of</strong> mass and <strong>of</strong> momentum to a finite<br />

volume <strong>of</strong> fluid. Depending on the assumptions made in order to simplify<br />

the problem, different mathematical problem are obtained. The Navier-<br />

Stokes equations, within the continuity equation, represent a complete set<br />

<strong>of</strong> equations <strong>for</strong> fluid flows. Assuming that the fluid viscosity neglectable,<br />

i.e. away from the boundary layers and turbulence, it means that the fluid<br />

motion is irrotational (zero vorticity); in this case the Navier-Stokes equations<br />

reduce to the Euler equations. In this chapter the main irrotational water<br />

wave theories are outlined, and a literature review <strong>of</strong> the <strong>tsunami</strong> modelling<br />

is given.<br />

2.1 Irrotational water <strong>waves</strong> theories<br />

In general <strong>for</strong> the description <strong>of</strong> the water wave motion a <strong>system</strong> <strong>of</strong> reference<br />

as the one sketched in figure 2.1 is used, where x and y are the horizontal<br />

coordinates and z is the vertical one pointing upward. The plane x, y <strong>for</strong> z =<br />

0 represents the still water free surface and the distance between this plane<br />

and the see bottom is defined by the water depth function h (x, y, t). The fluid<br />

velocity and the fluid pressure inside the domain are defined respectively by<br />

the vector v = {u, v, w} and the scalar p (x, y, z, t), while η (x, y, t) defines the<br />

free water surface vertical displacement. Assuming an irrotational fluid, the<br />

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