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OF THE ROGER N. CLARK

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amateurs tend to. use taa bright a red light.<br />

They have the false impressian that if it is<br />

red, night visian will nat be impaired. In<br />

practice, hawever, I find that very dim green<br />

ar yellawish light warks fine. Strang calors<br />

shauld be avaided because they distart the<br />

eye's calar perceptian at the telescape, if an<br />

abject is bright enaugh to. shaw calar at all.<br />

A gaad light level can be abtained fram a<br />

twa-battery flashlight by replacing the bulb<br />

with ane meant far three, faur, ar five batteries.<br />

This bath dims and reddens the light,<br />

while extending battery life. The flashlight<br />

shauld cast a smaath glaw with no bright ar<br />

dark spats. This can be ensured by placing<br />

ane ar two. pieces afpaper in front afthe bulb<br />

to. act as diffusers. The brightness can be<br />

fine-tuned by using two. pieces af palarizing<br />

material between the bulb and paper to. act as<br />

a variable filter. Buy a high-quality flashlight<br />

- it is very annaying to. have to. shake ar bang<br />

it to. make it wark.<br />

A drawing can caver any amaunt af sky<br />

and be any size an the paper yau wish. Same<br />

authors recammend using just ane eyepiece,<br />

dra wing a circle to. represen t its field af view,<br />

and sketching what is seen in this field. This<br />

is a bad idea far several reasans. The mast<br />

impartant is the need to. use many magnificatians<br />

to. explare an abject properly, ane afthe<br />

main thrusts af this baak. Anather is that yau<br />

may want to. draw a larger area than fits in<br />

the field, ar just a small detail.<br />

One ratianale far the circle methad is to.<br />

give athers a feel far what they might see in<br />

their eyepiece at the same magnificatian. But<br />

even at the same pawer, ane eyepiece can<br />

shaw a field twice as big as anather. The right<br />

way to. indicate an abject's apparent size is to.<br />

give the distance from which to. view the paper<br />

sa the abject laaks as big as it did in the<br />

telescape. Angular distance an the sky carrespands<br />

to. linear distance an a drawing ar<br />

phatagraph. The relatianship between them<br />

is called the scale (ar frequently the "plate<br />

scale", a carryaver fram phatagraphic<br />

plts). Often it is given in arc-secands per<br />

mllhmeter. If an angle at in the sky carrespands<br />

to. the distance ls an the drawing ar<br />

phatagraph, then the scale Ps is<br />

Ps = at I ls. (equatian 5.1)<br />

Once the scale is set, the apprapriate viewing<br />

distance v to. the paper depends anly an the<br />

VISUAL ASTRONOMY <strong>OF</strong> <strong>THE</strong> DEEP SKY<br />

56<br />

magnificatian m af the telescape:<br />

v =<br />

ls I (2m tan(a,!2)). ( equation<br />

scale and viewing distances for vario ot<br />

The drawings in Chapter 7 give b h<br />

nifications. By halding yaur eye at th:e<br />

tances from the page, yau see J' ust ho<br />

an 0 ect appears at a given<br />

If an eyepiece's true field in your<br />

i knaw . n (see Chapter 3), you can find<br />

hnear size of the eyepiece field of vie I<br />

the d. rawing (or a photagraph) fr;' e<br />

equatlOn<br />

le = 2mv tan(at/2),<br />

where at is now the true field of view of<br />

telescope with that eyepiece.<br />

Even thaugh many magnifications<br />

be used to view an object, one will often<br />

the bst ovrall impressian of the object.<br />

magmficatlOn, along with a viewing<br />

afabout 25cm (10 inches), will define a<br />

scale far the drawing.<br />

Any drawing takes considerable time<br />

at the telescope, then indaors doing a '<br />

ric correction and a finished version<br />

sed below). A very simple subject<br />

cauple of field stars, such as a faint,<br />

less galaxy, may take only 10 minutes at<br />

telescope. Most subjects take over 30<br />

nutes, and complicated anes like the<br />

nebula (M42), several hours. The more<br />

plex a subject, the more you must go<br />

and forth from eyepiece to paper, and<br />

time you return to the telescope it takes<br />

minutes or sa to regain full night vision<br />

when using a very dim flashlight.<br />

After the drawing is completed at the<br />

scope, a finished version is made .<br />

the finger smudging method. For this<br />

drawing, a geometric correctian s<br />

made using known positions of<br />

"straighten out" positional errors.<br />

drawing usually takes longer than the<br />

made at the telescope. In general, the<br />

time spent, the mare accurate the<br />

likely to. be.<br />

tic talent ar experience, but they do<br />

clase attention, much time at the<br />

much time redrawing with finger<br />

and honesty in not recarding details<br />

bered from photagraphs but not<br />

seen. All this can require mare time<br />

b .<br />

Goad drawings do. not require special<br />

w<br />

--<br />

MAKING DRAWINGS AND KEEPING RECORDS<br />

h h But the<br />

taking a lang-exposre f . p atograp .<br />

result is often as satlS ym ar mare so.<br />

raW<br />

Th .<br />

1<br />

D ing even has certam advantages over<br />

h raphy One is law cast. e slmp est,<br />

b p ot ;ones tlescape is all you need - no<br />

<br />

d . 1<br />

clock drive, alignment eVlces, ar e ectramc<br />

'der not to. mention camera, film, and a<br />

toraphic darkrpm. Secondly, . the eye<br />

h a far greater lautude, or dynamic range,<br />

t: s n film. This means bright and faint details<br />

be seen at the same time, which is sameca<br />

( . h<br />

thing film cannot do Wit out very special<br />

techniques). For example, have yau ever seen<br />

faint auter wisps and the bright Trapezium<br />

a photagraph of M42 that shaws the large,<br />

See Chapter 7 far many examples.<br />

Drawing method 1:<br />

the initial-blind method<br />

For this methad yau start "blind" with no.<br />

infarmatian abaut the subject that might bias<br />

you; a phatagraph shauld nat be at the telescope.<br />

First the field stars are drawn, then the<br />

object itself is sketched in, using the stars to.<br />

positian its parts carrectly. Finger smudging<br />

is nat used, just gentle shading with the pencil.<br />

The warking light should be sa dim that<br />

you can't tell pencil shading from finger<br />

smudges anyway; the smallest detail visible<br />

in very dim light at a distance of 10 inches<br />

(25.4 cm) is abaut a sixteenth af an inch (1.6<br />

mm).<br />

Because af this, a drawing made at the<br />

telescape will laak terrible in narmal roam<br />

lighting. Mare to. the paint, a subject cannat<br />

b redered very faithfully under dim illummatIOn.<br />

But detail will be remembered far a<br />

shor while after leaving the telescape. This is<br />

the tue to. redraw the rough sketch indaars.<br />

While daing sa, a geametric carrection can<br />

be performed. This is dane by finding a suitable<br />

phatagraph af the abject and tracing<br />

onḷy the field stars (and, if the abject has very<br />

bnght portians with sharp baundaries these<br />

as well.) But remember that brigh;nesses<br />

my appear different an the phata than perceIVed<br />

by th D<br />

e eye. raw the star bnghtnesses<br />

:s remembered and recarded, nat as they<br />

ppear on the phatagraph.<br />

Lastly th h<br />

and th h e p tagraph should be put away<br />

e azy abject finger-smudged in Here<br />

one needs to b h<br />

_<br />

e<br />

very anest and nat biased by<br />

.<br />

.<br />

.<br />

.<br />

57<br />

the phata just een. Only wen the drawing is<br />

camplete may It be campared with the phata.<br />

The final drawing should be checked for<br />

accuracy during anather observing session,<br />

preferably under similar skies at the same<br />

time the next night. The object should first be<br />

s . tudied in the telescope, then a bright enough<br />

hght shauld be used to. confirm the details in<br />

the drawing.<br />

Drawing method 2: filling in details<br />

In this ethad yau start with a pre-drawn,<br />

geametncally carrect sketch and fill whatever<br />

details yau can see in the telescape. Such a<br />

sketch cauld be traced fram a photagraph,<br />

but trouble may result because phatas<br />

usually recard stars that are taa faint far<br />

visual use and the proper magnitude cutaff<br />

can't be tald. A better saurce is a drawing<br />

already made by methad 1. Such a drawing<br />

can be traced or capied, leaving aut the detail<br />

at the limit of detectian.<br />

Using this preliminary sketch, yau add any<br />

newly abserved detail. Then a new final<br />

drawing is made indaors using finger<br />

smudging as in methad 1.<br />

Drawing method 3:<br />

the double-blind method<br />

In this procedure no phatographs are used<br />

befare, during, or after the drawing at the<br />

telescope is made. This methad, the freest<br />

from bias, requires an accurately driven<br />

telescape and a grid reticle in the eyepiece.<br />

The stars and subject are drawn on graph<br />

paper, where the squares match the reticle<br />

grid seen in the eyepiece. Everything can be<br />

platted accurately this way; there is no. need<br />

far a geametrical correction in roam light.<br />

Hawever, nebulasity will still need to. be<br />

redraw by . finger smudging. The grid may<br />

be retamed m the final versian, ar remaved.<br />

This i . s the mast difficult drawing methad,<br />

and retlcle eyepieces are nat available in<br />

today's telescape market. They have to be<br />

custam made. A grid is nat needed in all<br />

eyepieces, but in at least ane sa that some star<br />

positians can be accurately plotted.<br />

SUMMARY<br />

Gaod astronamical recards provide a useful<br />

baseline far seeing the same and possibly

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