Number in series 70; Year of publication 1986 - Fell and Rock ...

Muriel Files 141room in the Climbing Book. An explanation of the nomenclature will be foundin H.M.Kelly's article 'Memorabilia' in the 1979 Journal.Many climbs recorded between 1890 and 1898 are first ascents of classicssuch as the North on Pillar (a culmination of many attempts by W.P.HaskettSmith); Eagle's Nest Direct (oddly, the lead is not allocated to Solly but mighthave been by any other member of the party); Moss Ghyll (many later ascentsare recorded — it was clearly a popular route); O.G.Jones's many first ascentsincluding the Pinnacle Direct from Lord's Rake. Many other well-known namesare to be found: John Robinson (many entries); Archer Thomson; NormanCollie; Hastings; Charles Pilkington; the Hopkinson brothers. Haskett Smith'sfirst ascent of the Needle was made four years before the Climbing Book wasstarted and might be found in the visitors' book, 1873-1900 which is still atWasdale Head. Many of the routes, now well known, were not then named andwere identified by names long out of use such as the Pinnacle Ridge for NeedleRidge.O.G.Jones's descriptions of his climbs are brief, but Botterill's account of hisascent of his eponymous slab on 3rd June 1903 is very detailed; a note follows it,referring to its daring leader; a second note advises that the route should be leftalone.In the next few years, the names of Herford, Sansom, Laycock and Jeffcoat(two of whom were to lose their lives in the first World War) dominate theentries; Harry Lyon, George Abraham and H. (Rusty) Westmorland alsoappear. After 1911, the year he joined the Club, Herford's name frequentlyoccurs until 14th April 1914 when the ascent of Central Buttress is recorded.This marks the end of an era. There is a gap of five years and the next entry isfor 11th June 1919: Tophet Bastion, H.M.Kelly, Mrs Kelly and party. A newera had begun. Kelly, Crawford, Holland and Gibson are now the mostfrequently recurring names (Gibson being the only one who appeared before1914) sometimes accompanied by Pritchard, Odell, Bower and (once) DorothyPilley.Mystery now surrounds the Wasdale Climbing Book. It is hoped thatsomeone among our readers will be able to answer Sansom's question as to itspresent whereabouts; and that the further problem provided by Jean Cram'sdiscovery at Leeds may also be solved. The mystery is indeed compoundedbecause it must now be disclosed that, in fact, Jean found two manuscript copiesat Leeds, both included in the G.T.Lowe bequest. The one I have described isreferred to by the Leeds Reference Librarian as 'the original'; the second as 'thecopy'. He informed me that in 'the copy' the entries are only prior to aboutApril 1893 and that it lacks some of'the sketches', photographs and cuttings.The solution of the mystery of the climbing book would be a welcome byproductof the interest aroused by the Centenary of Climbing.Wasdale Climbing Books in the FRCC Archives1. Wasdale Hotel Climbing Book, 1863-1919. Typed copy.2. Wastwater Hotel Climbing Book, 1920-1939. For recording first and second ascents.3. The Fell and Rock Wasdale Climbing Book, 1907-39. All the 'centres' (Borrowdale, Buttermere,Coniston and Wasdale) had books for recording climbs, now in the Archives.