Number in series 70; Year of publication 1986 - Fell and Rock ...

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Jim Sutcliffe 195Amazingly, the weather was excellent for the Dinner weekend. At the dinner,David Roberts gave his first formal address to the Club as President. In it helooked with optimism to the future of the club. Chris Bonington replied for theguests, as he had only recently been accorded honorary membership.The last report to appear in the last Chronicle was for the Brackenclose Meet,led by Eric Ivison early in November when 'heavy rain and gale-force winds,starting in the early evening, resulted in postponement of the traditional bonfireto the Sunday Night.' I have received another report from Richard Morgan forthe Birkness Meet early in December which seems to have suffered the samefate as so many of the earlier meets as far as the Saturday went, but the next day'the clouds lifted to reveal a sharp and clear winter day'.I hope that this indicated a change in the pattern for 1986.365 Ullswater. Ron Kenyan
NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESAlan Murray & Phil RigbyNew route activity in the Lake District during 1985 has marched on despite one of thewettest summers for many years. The steady downpour didn't curtail all activity though,and a remarkable number of new routes have emerged from the gloom despite the socalled "drying up" of Lakes rock.Following the trend of recent years development has centred on the many outcropstylecrags that have been unearthed by budding gardeners. Many of these crags can nowboast excellent one-pitch routes covering all grades.In Borrowdale Colin Downer and Andy Hall developed Hanging Stone Crag, aboveSeathwaite, while guide book research by Dave Armstrong resulted in the discovery ofthe futuristic Lower Knitting How. At the other end of the valley C.Thwaites andR.Curley braved the unstable roof of Lamplighter on Lower Falcon, and the Jaws ofBorrowdale exhumed acres of rock in his quest for yet another Borrowdale classic for thenew guide.Across in Langdale Bill Birkett wire-brushed the remote Crinkle Gill into the limelightto produce some worthwhile climbs. In Eskdale the popular Burnt Crag had someobvious gaps filled, and the scattered buttresses of Gate Crag saw eight new additions,mainly the work of D.Hall and D.Hinton.Over in the Eastern Fells, Raven, Threshthwaite and Thrang Crags came under muchscrutiny from Bob Smith and John Earl, producing some good routes, while at Raven,Thirlmere, Scottish raider Dougie Dinwoodie snatched some very obvious lines fromunder the local's noses.The main sources of information have been the new routes books spread around thearea. Our thanks go to their custodians for their continued co-operation, and to DaveArmstrong and Ron Kenyon for help with the Borrowdale section.Most routes remain unchecked and the usual caution should be exercised.BORROWDALELOWER FALCON CRAG (273205)Breaking in Space. 40ft. E5.Belays at the junction of Lamplighter and Illusion and climbs the overhang just left ofthe finish to Lamplighter Eliminate.6b. Gain the short groove in the overhang from the right using large unstable holdsand climb it exiting right to better holds. Two peg runners and fixed sling.C.Thwaites, R.Curley 1985.CAFFELL SIDE CRAG (268176)Hairy Mary. 80ft. E2.5c. Follow Everhard to a hollow flake, continue directly up the wall to rejoin Everhardat a small tree after 120ft. Finish directly up the wall above.D.McDonald, M.Moran. 2/6/85.Street Walker. 70ft. E2.Climbs the shattered wall, just right of the vegetated gully in the centre of the crag.(5c). Climb a groove until a step left can be made onto the arete. Up this and the leftwall; then back into the top of the groove. Surmount the overhang and continue up thesteep wall until a mantelshelf move leads to easier climbing to the top.D.David, J.Waters. 8/6/85.366
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100 YEARS OFROCK CLIMBINGIN THELAKE
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EDITOR'S NOTESGeoff CramIn June 188
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4 THE FIRST ASCENT OF NAPES NEEDLET
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6 THE FIRST ASCENT OF NAPES NEEDLEb
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10 A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLIM
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H.M.Kelly and J.H.Doughty 33for the
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H.M.Kelly and J.H.Doughty1892 Moss
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H.M.Kelly and J.H. Doughty1923 Toph
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John Wilkinson 47men: Birkett, Peas
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John Wilkinson 53are now Hard Very
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John Wilkinson 57have radically tra
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John Wilkinson 6 5being made by the
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John Wilkinson6SWith the opening up
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Pete Whillance 73good routes on Low
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A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLIMBIN
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A SHORT HISTORYOF LAKELAND CLIMBING
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Ron Kenyon and AlMurray 89climbed b
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Ron Kenyon and Al Murray 91spotligh
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Ron Kenyon and Al Murray 97In the E
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102 A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLI
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106 A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLI
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110 THE NORTH-EAST SPUR OF THE DROI
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112 THE NORTH-EAST SPUR OF THE DROI
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ROCK CLIMBING IN NORTHERN ITALYAl C
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AI Churcher 119Sergent and Caporal,
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13 MILES FROM THE EQUATORRay Cassid
Page 93 and 94: Ray Cassidy 123and I suddenly found
Page 95 and 96: W. Heaton Cooper 127One element see
Page 97 and 98: June Parker 131show a new route bei
Page 99 and 100: 136 THE ABRAHAM COLLECTIONwas a for
Page 101 and 102: 140 THE WASDALE CLIMBING BOOKClimbi
Page 103 and 104: SCAFELL CENTRAL BUTTRESSG.S.SansomR
Page 105 and 106: G.S.Sansom 145bulge, above-mentione
Page 107 and 108: MORE OF C.B.Bill BirkettWhen the ed
Page 109 and 110: 150 MOREOFC.B.ground, rather overha
Page 111 and 112: 152 CLIMBING IN THE MIDDLE AGEStemp
Page 113 and 114: THE MAN WHO BROKE THE NEEDLEGraham
Page 115 and 116: G. Sutton 157tooth....'Ron's voice
Page 117 and 118: G. Sutton 159view; they must have b
Page 119 and 120: Ed Grindley 161A couple of hours la
Page 121 and 122: 164 THE MODERN ICARUS!This was now
Page 123 and 124: 166 THE MODERN ICARUS!Aware that I'
Page 125 and 126: Angela Soper 169whispered happily,
Page 127 and 128: 172 THE WELL-OILED MACHINE - TWELVE
Page 129 and 130: 174 THE WELL-OILED MACHINE - TWELVE
Page 131 and 132: A. Harry Griffin 111the same mould
Page 133 and 134: A. Harry Griffin 179merged together
Page 135 and 136: 182 WAY OUT WESTone of them picked
Page 137 and 138: 184 WAY OUT WESTseverity it was of
Page 139 and 140: 186 WAY OUT WESTwho made me a pair
Page 141 and 142: SCOTLANDThe Fell and Rock members c
Page 143: Jim Sutcliffe 193June Parker report
Page 147 and 148: 198 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESIvor the Bo
Page 149 and 150: 200 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESBLEAK HOW C
Page 151 and 152: 202 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESJoker Man.
Page 153 and 154: 204 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESPrivate Eye
Page 155 and 156: 206 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTES6a. Climb t
Page 157 and 158: 208 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESBURNT CRAG
Page 159 and 160: 210 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESYEW CRAGAut
Page 161 and 162: 212 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESSilverstone
Page 163 and 164: 214 IN MEMORIAMGladys died peaceful
Page 165: CLUB OFFICERS AND MEETS 225Libraria
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Number in series 70; Year of publication 1986 - Fell and Rock ...

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