Number in series 70; Year of publication 1986 - Fell and Rock ...

114 THE NORTH-EAST SPUR OF THE DROITESCouloir kept us on edge. We filled in a couple of hours trying to light our highlyinflammable butane stove with a variety of boy scout tricks, cursing our lostlighter, but we were destined to have a dry bivvy. The rest of the night wasspent alternately dozing and readjusting body positions to achieve comfort onour comfortless ledge.The new day eventually dawned and we packed for a quick getaway while alump under my long-suffering buttocks emerged as the missing lighter. Theviews towards Mont Blanc as we crested the summit were stupendous bututterly wasted on tired eyes. All our interest concentrated on the descent line,straight down the south ridge. This was to take up a goodly part of the day, firstdown a long snow arete, then by acres of broken rock and finally down a couloirwhich deposited us on the glacier at the worst possible time of day. Wendingour way under creaking seracs and over the maws of hungry crevasses while thesun steadily grilled us left an indelible impression. At least we were through itwith nothing but a snow plod to the Couvercle; then on down, through marmotcountry and the green line route on the Mer de Glace. One final obstacleremained: Les Echelles! — the iron ladders which take you in 200 leg-weary feetof ascent from the comparative peace of the glacier to the culture-shock of theMontenvers with its crowds, picture postcards and squalling kids.There are those who complain that Chamonix is played out; overcrowdedroutes with queues at every stance. They could try breaking away from the firstMidi Telepherique of the day routine and go for ascents like the N.E. Spur ofthe Droites. It's much closer to true mountaineering, not merely following a lineof pegs, and no pitch harder than IV, ;/ you can find the right line./2H4