Number in series 70; Year of publication 1986 - Fell and Rock ...

H.M. Kelly and 3. H. Doughty 31slipshod methods, especially in rope management. The use of the rope hasevolved gradually from its first tentative introduction, when it was almost moreof a menace than an aid at times, to the present-day elaboration in which greatcare is devoted to its texture, storage, testing, method of attachment both tobodies and rocks, handling in use, and a score of other details. For if the novicesare inclined to carelessness, it can truly be said of experienced climbers thatnever in the history of the sport was more concentrated attention given to thissubject than at present.There is one type of climber to whom the art of rope management is a matterof secondary importance, that is, the solitary climber. There are probably few, ifany, who addict themselves to solo climbing exclusively; but it has always had afascination for certain minds. Whether because it has sometimes been frownedon by those in authority, or for other reasons, solitary climbing is but scantilydocumented; so that we must content ourselves with referring to its existenceand mentioning that its devotees have included many of the most distinguishedclimbers at all times.It was not our intention, for we did not feel that it came within the scope ofthis article, to deal with equipment, but as the rope has been mentioned a wordor two about footgear might not be out of place especially, as in one respect, achange in it had considerable influence on the development of climbing. It is noteasy to trace the introduction of the climbing nail into the boot and the variouschanges that have taken place in the composition and shape of it. No doubtclimbers were first content with the strong type of boot such as was worn by thedalesman until the need for something affording greater friction started thevarious fashions in the projecting nail. But regarding the introduction of therubber shoe there is less uncertainty, for gritstone climbing was chieflyresponsible for it. Like most innovations this did not come about at once and atfirst problems demanding footgear of th~s kind were usually overcome bydiscarding the boot for the stockinged-foot; as Jones did on the final pitch ofWalker's Gully, and Herford and Sansom on the Central Buttress. But whenthis method was applied to gritstone-and it was more applicable to this type ofclimbing than any other-the abrasive nature of the rock demanded somethingmore durable than wool, and ultimately the rubber-shoe was adopted as themost suitable medium for the purpose. Its durability, together with its better'feel' and greater flexibility than the boot, brought it into favour for the biggercrags, and a pair of rubbers were naturally stored Into the rucksack beforestarting out for them.One of two features which have distinguished British from Continentalclimbing should also be mentioned here. One is the almost complete refusal ofour own climbers to resort to artificial aids, apart from the rope. Thecontinental climber, with his armoury of pitons (wall-hooks), hammer, andcarabineers (sic) (snap-rings), has no counterpart in this country. Of course, ourhome crags offer a fair supply of natural belays, and do not call so imperatively