Number in series 70; Year of publication 1986 - Fell and Rock ...

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Alan Murray and Phil Rigby 209BUTTERMERE AND EASTERN CRAGSBUTTERMEREGREEN CRAG (201131)Berlin Bunker Blues. 250ft. El.Climbs the wall between Thorgrim and Paper Tiger. Start at a holly tree.1. 120ft. Climb the groove to the right of Thorgrim moving out right after 40ft. Trendleft to a large ledge. Block belay.2. 130ft. 5b. Step right and ascend the block to a narrow ledge below a thin flake. Climbthe flake and step left to an edge. Up this to ledges below a steep wall. Pull up over abulge onto good holds, then up the cracked wall, step left to blocks. Continue up thesteep final wall. Peg belay.D.Hellier, G.Taylor. 8/5/85.THIRLMERERAVEN CRAG (304188)Gates of Delirium — Direct Start. 70ft. E5.Start at the foot of Gates of Delirium.6a. Arrange nuts above in a shallow groove, traverse the wall leftward to reach a moreprominent groove. Move up the arete, then make long reaches up and right to improvingholds and a rest on Gates of Delirium near the end of the traverse. Step back right anduse a loose chockstone to climb the bulge. Up layback flakes to exit left into the groove ofGates.D.Dinwoodie, C.McLean. 12/8/85.Close to the Edge — Direct Start. 50ft. E5.Start as for the Medlar.6b. Climb up the groove of Medlar to gain nut runners. Step back down and moveright onto the rib using a low side pull. Pull up the rib to gain a good letter-box hold,then move up right to join the Gates of Delirium near the end of the traverse.D.Dinwoodie, C.Ord. 1985.ULLSWATERGOWBARROW CRAG, MIDDLE BUTTRESS (414206)The roof to the left of Whistler has been climbed before at E2 5b, Valicide.GOWBARROW CRAGBy Pass. 70ft. H.V.S.A variation pitch to the girdle traverse, starting from the oak belay above pitch 1.Traverse left to Susan, step left and continue traversing the Mossy Slab intoGowbarrow Buttress. Climb the crack for about 10ft., move left round a rib and continuetraversing to the oak belay.B.Rogers, S.Scott. 26/10/85.179
210 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESYEW CRAGAutoman. 150ft. H.V.S.Starts at an obvious groove containing yew trees.1. 60ft. 4b. Gain the groove from the right and layback up a large pinnacle moving left atthe top and passing outside of a yew tree to belay on a higher yew tree.2. 90ft. 5a. Up the wall to the groove trending slightly left. Step right and climb directlyto a hanging corner. Move up on good holds to the top.P.Hirst, R.McHaffie, N.Robinson. 31/12/84.Tom Thumb. 50ft. S.Starts at the obvious corner jamming crack at the far left of the crag.Climb the corner then the short wall.R.McHaffie. 1985.Brass Monkey. 150ft. H.V.S.Start 40ft. right of Automan.1. 30ft. 4a. Climb into the triangular niche then swing round the left rib to a ledge andtree belay.2. 120ft. 5a. Climb into the overhanging groove above and climb it, with a short detouronto the slab on the right. Spike belay 6ft. left of finish.P.Hirst, R.McHaffie. 10/2/85.MARTINDALEUPPER THRANG CRAG (431177)Simple Solution. E3.Start at the stacked pinnacle between Desperate Remedies and Microcosm.5c. From the top of the pinnacle climb up the wall until forced right then move up andback left to ledges. Climb the short groove to gain a standing position on the shoulder onthe left. Follow the diagonal crack right to gain the groove above at the large spike.Continue up the groove to the top.R.Smith, J.Earl. 15/6/85.Stern Test. 80ft. E5.The impressive arete between Bomber Wall and Responsibility. Scramble up to aledge and large flake beneath the arete.6b. Climbs directly up the arete to a peg runner. A long reach or awkward movesenable the horizontal break and a second peg runner to be reached. Move up to a goodrest at the large foothold on the arete. A couple of thin moves up the left side of the areteleads to an overlap and easier climbing to large spike belays and the top.J.Earl, R.Smith. 15/6/85.Gouttes d'Eau. 80ft. E3.5c. The arete right of Responsibility is climbed on its left side.R.Smith, J.Earl. 15/6/85.380
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100 YEARS OFROCK CLIMBINGIN THELAKE
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EDITOR'S NOTESGeoff CramIn June 188
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4 THE FIRST ASCENT OF NAPES NEEDLET
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6 THE FIRST ASCENT OF NAPES NEEDLEb
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10 A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLIM
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H.M.Kelly and J.H.Doughty 33for the
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H.M.Kelly and J.H.Doughty1892 Moss
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H.M.Kelly and J.H. Doughty1923 Toph
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John Wilkinson 47men: Birkett, Peas
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John Wilkinson 53are now Hard Very
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John Wilkinson 57have radically tra
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John Wilkinson 6 5being made by the
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John Wilkinson6SWith the opening up
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Pete Whillance 73good routes on Low
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A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLIMBIN
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A SHORT HISTORYOF LAKELAND CLIMBING
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Ron Kenyon and AlMurray 89climbed b
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Ron Kenyon and Al Murray 91spotligh
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Ron Kenyon and Al Murray 97In the E
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102 A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLI
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106 A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLI
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110 THE NORTH-EAST SPUR OF THE DROI
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112 THE NORTH-EAST SPUR OF THE DROI
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ROCK CLIMBING IN NORTHERN ITALYAl C
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AI Churcher 119Sergent and Caporal,
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13 MILES FROM THE EQUATORRay Cassid
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Ray Cassidy 123and I suddenly found
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W. Heaton Cooper 127One element see
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June Parker 131show a new route bei
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136 THE ABRAHAM COLLECTIONwas a for
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140 THE WASDALE CLIMBING BOOKClimbi
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SCAFELL CENTRAL BUTTRESSG.S.SansomR
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G.S.Sansom 145bulge, above-mentione
Page 107 and 108: MORE OF C.B.Bill BirkettWhen the ed
Page 109 and 110: 150 MOREOFC.B.ground, rather overha
Page 111 and 112: 152 CLIMBING IN THE MIDDLE AGEStemp
Page 113 and 114: THE MAN WHO BROKE THE NEEDLEGraham
Page 115 and 116: G. Sutton 157tooth....'Ron's voice
Page 117 and 118: G. Sutton 159view; they must have b
Page 119 and 120: Ed Grindley 161A couple of hours la
Page 121 and 122: 164 THE MODERN ICARUS!This was now
Page 123 and 124: 166 THE MODERN ICARUS!Aware that I'
Page 125 and 126: Angela Soper 169whispered happily,
Page 127 and 128: 172 THE WELL-OILED MACHINE - TWELVE
Page 129 and 130: 174 THE WELL-OILED MACHINE - TWELVE
Page 131 and 132: A. Harry Griffin 111the same mould
Page 133 and 134: A. Harry Griffin 179merged together
Page 135 and 136: 182 WAY OUT WESTone of them picked
Page 137 and 138: 184 WAY OUT WESTseverity it was of
Page 139 and 140: 186 WAY OUT WESTwho made me a pair
Page 141 and 142: SCOTLANDThe Fell and Rock members c
Page 143 and 144: Jim Sutcliffe 193June Parker report
Page 145 and 146: NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESAlan Murray & P
Page 147 and 148: 198 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESIvor the Bo
Page 149 and 150: 200 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESBLEAK HOW C
Page 151 and 152: 202 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESJoker Man.
Page 153 and 154: 204 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESPrivate Eye
Page 155 and 156: 206 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTES6a. Climb t
Page 157: 208 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESBURNT CRAG
Page 161 and 162: 212 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESSilverstone
Page 163 and 164: 214 IN MEMORIAMGladys died peaceful
Page 165: CLUB OFFICERS AND MEETS 225Libraria
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Number in series 70; Year of publication 1986 - Fell and Rock ...

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