Number in series 70; Year of publication 1986 - Fell and Rock ...

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A SHORT HISTORYOF LAKELAND CLIMBINGPART I (1802 - 1934)H.M.Kelly & J.H.DoughtyIntroductionReprinted from the FRCC Journal, Lakeland Number, 1936-37Climbing history, like the climber's rope, is made up" of three interwovenstrands, which we may designate as the rocks, the climbers, and the sport. It isour aim to trace the development of climbing in its broader technical aspects,but the tale must perforce be told largely in terms of men and routes. It is notproposed to mention all the first ascents made or the persons participating inthem. A full knowledge of these can be had from the lists of First Ascents in thenew Fell and Rock Club Guides. But as names will have to be mentioned, onlythose considered to have made some contribution to climbing history andtechnique will be used. Naturally any references to individuals will beconcerned mainly with the leaders of climbs; but it must not be thought that,even if the praises of seconds and other supporters on a climb are left unsung,they have been ignored in our study of the subject: space alone prevents theirinclusion. An interesting article could be written on 'Famous Seconds.' Such aone was Morley Wood, who became known as 'the perfect second', whoseunambitious mind and general self-effacement always led him to take secondplace, but did not stop him on occasion from taking greater risks than the leaderof the party himself in order that success should crown the efforts of the party.Then there were men like G.S. Sansom and C.F Holland, who, owing to theirown aptitude for leadership, were a source of inspiration in their seconding offirst ascents. Their climbing with others was in this respect a real partnershipand not merely a case of providing morale to the leader by being tied on to thesame rope.Regarding the development of climbing on its technical side, we candistinguish four main phases—(a) the period of the Easy Way, no matter whatkind of technical problem presented itself, (b) the Gully and Chimney period, (c)the Ridge and Arete (Rib) period, and (d) the Slab and Wall period. It is difficultto assign precise dates to these, as there is considerable overlapping. Perhaps thebest course is to recognise this and label them as follows—(a) up to 1880, (b)1880 to 1900, (c) 1890 to 1905, (d) 1905 to date. Apart from this overlappingthere have been also, as in all evolutionary processes, the usual anticipations andreversions, such as Eagle's Nest Direct, a (c) climb done in the (b) period, andSmuggler's Chimney, a (b) climb done in the (d) period. The accompanying timechart, and still more the list of first ascents at the end of this article, will indicatebroadly the scheme of classification and the reasons for it.179 Combined tacticts on Tophet Arete, the Napes. Abraham Collection
10 A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLIMBING - PART IOne other point calls for mention here. In order to avoid scrappiness, and inthe interests of a coherent and comprehensive story we have found ourselvesconcentrating almost inevitably on the best known climbing grounds and payingscant attention to work on the less frequented outlying crags. This is true bothof the history and the accompanying lists of climbs. We should like to stateemphatically that it does not betoken any lack of appreciation for this work; andto all who might feel themselves to have suffered disparagement by implicationwe beg to offer this explanation and our respectful apologies.THE TIME CHART1820 - -I1830 -OLD WEST (Pillar) 18261840 -1850 -EASY WAYPERIOD1860 -1870 -1880 -1800 -1900 -1910 -«UULLY AND CHIMNEYPERIODRIDGE AND ARETE(RIB) PERIOD1920 - SLAB AND WALLPERIOD1930 -1940 -■Slab & Notch {Pillar) 1863Deep Ghyll (Scafell)The Needle (Napes)Eagle's Nest (Napes)Walker's Gully (Pillar)BotteriU's Slab (Scafell)Central Buttress (Scafell)Route 1 (Pillar)Girdle Traverse (Dow Crag)Girdle Traverse (Pillar)Overhanging Wall (Scafell)1882188618921899190319141919192219311933
Page 1 and 2: 100 YEARS OFROCK CLIMBINGIN THELAKE
Page 6: EDITOR'S NOTESGeoff CramIn June 188
Page 9 and 10: 4 THE FIRST ASCENT OF NAPES NEEDLET
Page 11: 6 THE FIRST ASCENT OF NAPES NEEDLEb
Page 15 and 16: 12 A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLIM
Page 29 and 30: H.M.Kelly and J.H.Doughty 33for the
Page 31 and 32: H.M.Kelly and J.H.Doughty1892 Moss
Page 33 and 34: H.M.Kelly and J.H. Doughty1923 Toph
Page 35: 40 A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLIM
Page 40 and 41: John Wilkinson 47men: Birkett, Peas
Page 44 and 45: John Wilkinson 53are now Hard Very
Page 46 and 47: John Wilkinson 57have radically tra
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78 A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLIM
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A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLIMBIN
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A SHORT HISTORYOF LAKELAND CLIMBING
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Ron Kenyon and AlMurray 89climbed b
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Ron Kenyon and Al Murray 91spotligh
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Ron Kenyon and Al Murray 97In the E
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102 A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLI
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106 A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLI
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110 THE NORTH-EAST SPUR OF THE DROI
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112 THE NORTH-EAST SPUR OF THE DROI
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ROCK CLIMBING IN NORTHERN ITALYAl C
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AI Churcher 119Sergent and Caporal,
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13 MILES FROM THE EQUATORRay Cassid
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Ray Cassidy 123and I suddenly found
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W. Heaton Cooper 127One element see
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June Parker 131show a new route bei
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136 THE ABRAHAM COLLECTIONwas a for
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140 THE WASDALE CLIMBING BOOKClimbi
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SCAFELL CENTRAL BUTTRESSG.S.SansomR
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G.S.Sansom 145bulge, above-mentione
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MORE OF C.B.Bill BirkettWhen the ed
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150 MOREOFC.B.ground, rather overha
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152 CLIMBING IN THE MIDDLE AGEStemp
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THE MAN WHO BROKE THE NEEDLEGraham
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G. Sutton 157tooth....'Ron's voice
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G. Sutton 159view; they must have b
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Ed Grindley 161A couple of hours la
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164 THE MODERN ICARUS!This was now
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166 THE MODERN ICARUS!Aware that I'
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Angela Soper 169whispered happily,
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172 THE WELL-OILED MACHINE - TWELVE
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174 THE WELL-OILED MACHINE - TWELVE
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A. Harry Griffin 111the same mould
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A. Harry Griffin 179merged together
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182 WAY OUT WESTone of them picked
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184 WAY OUT WESTseverity it was of
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186 WAY OUT WESTwho made me a pair
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SCOTLANDThe Fell and Rock members c
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Jim Sutcliffe 193June Parker report
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NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESAlan Murray & P
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198 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESIvor the Bo
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200 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESBLEAK HOW C
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202 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESJoker Man.
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204 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESPrivate Eye
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206 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTES6a. Climb t
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208 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESBURNT CRAG
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210 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESYEW CRAGAut
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212 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESSilverstone
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214 IN MEMORIAMGladys died peaceful
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CLUB OFFICERS AND MEETS 225Libraria
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Number in series 70; Year of publication 1986 - Fell and Rock ...

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