Number in series 70; Year of publication 1986 - Fell and Rock ...

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CLIMBING IS MORE A DANCING THINGAngela SoperOn a glorious summer day in 1967 when Kipling Groove was the hardestroute in Langdale, I fell off it at the end of the traverse. With only one move tomake, my fingers, on which I was depending, simply uncurled and let go. Well Iremember how the rope cut into my waist as I dangled from the peg, and howashamed I felt at this unseemly debacle.On a miserable autumn day in 1984, when Kipling Groove had long been justanother 5a pitch (though probably the most popular one in Langdale), I stood inbalance in the middle of the traverse, took off one hand at a time and confessedthe story to the girl who held my rope. Could it really be the same place?Strange, how I used to believe that climbing was a matter of strength andcourage. Was it because the other climbers were men, much stronger than me?Why did I depend so much on my fingers, unreliable at the best of times? Justbecause the old brown guidebook described a hand traverse, why didn't I thinkof feet? It took me far too long to realise that climbing is more a dancing thing,especially for a woman. Technique and courage. Then, the leader never fell.Now, if she doesn't fall occasionally (onto perfect protection) she isn't climbingat her highest standard. Then, four points of contact. Now, put your spare footout in space and feel your balance improve. Push up, rock over, lock off.In these days of indoor climbing walls, you don't need to make a new startafter every winter, but can resume at the standard you feel 'trained up to'. I usedto be apprehensive to the point of terror, especially when seconding. Once Ithought my difficulties were due to lack of strength, but now it's clear that theywere due more to lack of perception. Over and over again, I must have tackledthings the wrong way. Now, guided by the technical grades, I approach a leadwith only mild 'butterflies', expecting to see what to do and enjoy doing it.Like Extol. I'll always remember the scorching day when we arrived at DoveCrag so early that we waited for the sun to go off it, then climbed that soaringpitch beautifully with new 50m ropes that were none too long. As I broughtStella up, the part of me that always stands aside from our antics seemed to say,'What are they doing, these middle-aged women?'. And the active part replied,'Rubbish. Let them stay young and daft until they're old and strange'. Still in a'go for it' mood, we went onto Dovedale Grooves, and next day climbed CentralPillar and Red Edge to compile surely the best weekend's climbing I'll everknow.Hard Rock has become a good source of routes for the girls and Sirplum inChee Dale was on my list. Jenny, a student, had only been climbing six monthsbut had already followed Sirplum, so naturally I offered her the lead. As wewalked along the disused railway she told me that dancing and teaching dancewere other leisure interests. Jenny danced up Sirplum without hesitation, takingin her elegant stride the steepness, the exposure, the polished rock. AfterwardsS37
Angela Soper 169whispered happily, 'Guess what — that's the first E route I've ever led'. I couldonly think, surely the first of many.'Butterflies' were in evidence before Vector, probably because of the earlydays when I was refused access on the grounds that I would only fallirretrievably into space; the rope could be of no assistance. Now, I'm eternallygrateful to whoever said that and set me up for a sight lead, even if it was twentyyears later. My partner Judy (of the clean-hands brigade) had led the routebefore and her friendly presence nearly amounted to cheating by me for, as soonas I made the first interesting step, she mentioned, 'I found that as hard as anymove on the climb', and added similar helpful remarks as I continued. Vectorwas beautiful, marred only by chalk. It is done in the head like an intricatedance; think of the right sequence and the rest happens. Technique and balance,judgement and timing, grace and style are the things which matter. But whydidn't I know that before?339 Angela Soper on Cave Arete, Stanage. Ian Smith
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100 YEARS OFROCK CLIMBINGIN THELAKE
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EDITOR'S NOTESGeoff CramIn June 188
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4 THE FIRST ASCENT OF NAPES NEEDLET
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6 THE FIRST ASCENT OF NAPES NEEDLEb
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10 A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLIM
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H.M.Kelly and J.H.Doughty 33for the
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H.M.Kelly and J.H.Doughty1892 Moss
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H.M.Kelly and J.H. Doughty1923 Toph
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John Wilkinson 47men: Birkett, Peas
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John Wilkinson 53are now Hard Very
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John Wilkinson 57have radically tra
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John Wilkinson 6 5being made by the
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John Wilkinson6SWith the opening up
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Pete Whillance 73good routes on Low
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A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLIMBIN
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A SHORT HISTORYOF LAKELAND CLIMBING
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Ron Kenyon and AlMurray 89climbed b
Page 73 and 74: Ron Kenyon and Al Murray 91spotligh
Page 75 and 76: 94 A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLIM
Page 77 and 78: Ron Kenyon and Al Murray 97In the E
Page 79 and 80: 102 A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLI
Page 81 and 82: 106 A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLI
Page 83 and 84: 110 THE NORTH-EAST SPUR OF THE DROI
Page 85 and 86: 112 THE NORTH-EAST SPUR OF THE DROI
Page 87 and 88: ROCK CLIMBING IN NORTHERN ITALYAl C
Page 89 and 90: AI Churcher 119Sergent and Caporal,
Page 91 and 92: 13 MILES FROM THE EQUATORRay Cassid
Page 93 and 94: Ray Cassidy 123and I suddenly found
Page 95 and 96: W. Heaton Cooper 127One element see
Page 97 and 98: June Parker 131show a new route bei
Page 99 and 100: 136 THE ABRAHAM COLLECTIONwas a for
Page 101 and 102: 140 THE WASDALE CLIMBING BOOKClimbi
Page 103 and 104: SCAFELL CENTRAL BUTTRESSG.S.SansomR
Page 105 and 106: G.S.Sansom 145bulge, above-mentione
Page 107 and 108: MORE OF C.B.Bill BirkettWhen the ed
Page 109 and 110: 150 MOREOFC.B.ground, rather overha
Page 111 and 112: 152 CLIMBING IN THE MIDDLE AGEStemp
Page 113 and 114: THE MAN WHO BROKE THE NEEDLEGraham
Page 115 and 116: G. Sutton 157tooth....'Ron's voice
Page 117 and 118: G. Sutton 159view; they must have b
Page 119 and 120: Ed Grindley 161A couple of hours la
Page 121 and 122: 164 THE MODERN ICARUS!This was now
Page 123: 166 THE MODERN ICARUS!Aware that I'
Page 127 and 128: 172 THE WELL-OILED MACHINE - TWELVE
Page 129 and 130: 174 THE WELL-OILED MACHINE - TWELVE
Page 131 and 132: A. Harry Griffin 111the same mould
Page 133 and 134: A. Harry Griffin 179merged together
Page 135 and 136: 182 WAY OUT WESTone of them picked
Page 137 and 138: 184 WAY OUT WESTseverity it was of
Page 139 and 140: 186 WAY OUT WESTwho made me a pair
Page 141 and 142: SCOTLANDThe Fell and Rock members c
Page 143 and 144: Jim Sutcliffe 193June Parker report
Page 145 and 146: NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESAlan Murray & P
Page 147 and 148: 198 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESIvor the Bo
Page 149 and 150: 200 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESBLEAK HOW C
Page 151 and 152: 202 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESJoker Man.
Page 153 and 154: 204 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESPrivate Eye
Page 155 and 156: 206 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTES6a. Climb t
Page 157 and 158: 208 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESBURNT CRAG
Page 159 and 160: 210 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESYEW CRAGAut
Page 161 and 162: 212 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESSilverstone
Page 163 and 164: 214 IN MEMORIAMGladys died peaceful
Page 165: CLUB OFFICERS AND MEETS 225Libraria
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Number in series 70; Year of publication 1986 - Fell and Rock ...

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