Number in series 70; Year of publication 1986 - Fell and Rock ...

94 A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLIMBING - PART IVcharacteristically bold ascent of the central overhanging section of the crag withLost Horizons. This was flawed by pre-placed protection and a point of aid, butnevertheless an excellent route which was climbed free by Bob Berzins andMike Browell in 1982.1977In 1977 there was action everywhere — the fuse had been lit!The action continued on Scafell with the Berzins brothers/Chris Sowdenclimbing the exceedingly steep Ringwraith, up the wall left of Nazgul. TheBerzins also climbed Foxshooter up the wall left of the C.B. Flake. On theweekend of 28/29 May, Cleasby/Matheson climbed two excellent routes, themagnificent Shere Khan and the exceedingly elegant arete Edge of Eriador.Lower down the valley on Esk Buttress the Berzins climbed Humdrum.On Dow Crag some new climbers came in on the act to produce a series ofgood routes. Initially Andy Hyslop and Ian Greenwood climbed MistyMountain Hop on B Buttress and then Hyslop and Rick Graham climbed thecompanion Four Sticks. The same climbers also climbed Samba Pa Ti, to give ahard continuation of Isengard and the companion Brocklebank variation.Cleasby and Gordon Tinning climbed the athletic Issel Roof above the walltaken by Giant Corner. Just to the right, Hyslop/Graham climbed Born Free, anascending traverse across Tarkus, Leopards Crawl and Pink Panther.In the Eastern Crags there was a lot of action on the guide's three main crags.In Thirlmere on Castle Rock Gomersall and Bonny Masson climbed a variationfinish to Barbican, Matheson Avenue, and then the steep crackline of TedCheasby. Across the valley on Raven Crag Clegg/Botterill opened up the yearwith Close to the Edge, an interesting climb starting up The Medlar andfinishing up the groove between that climb and Gates of Delirium. On the sameday the Berzins climbed The First Circle — an arduous crossing of the craglinking some very exciting pitches. Shortly afterwards Livesey/Gomersall stolethe show with the exceedingly difficult Peels of Laughter and Blitzkrieg — afree version of the very steep Blitz. Over on Dove Crag Martin Berzins andChris Hamper whittled down the aid on North Buttress to give an almost freeand very airy route on the right side of the crag, to show what was possiblethere. Left of Extol Whillance/Armstrong climbed the good and steep Aurora.On the secluded Thrang Crag in Martindale Earl/Hutchinson climbed threeroutes — Jude the Obscure, The Wilderness and Locusts — to open up this littlecrag.In the Langdale area the action started at Deer Bield whenArmstrong/Whillance climbed Gymslip, a serious and technical route up thewall left of The Crack. Shortly afterwards this team returned and attacked theface right of The Buttress to produce the intricate Desperado. Later in the yearCleasby/Matheson caused controversy with their prior top-roping ofImagination — a bold and serious lead up the arete right of The Chimney. OnLost Horizons (E4), East Buttress, Scafell. Phizacklea Collection 264